What's the proper way to attach headers to ALUM heads?

[mjb1032]

Prior to purchasing a pair of headers, I want to make sure I order the right stuff.
I know I'm bolting into a steel heli-coil, but I'm curious...
Do you use anti-sieze on the bolts? copper or nickel?
What about on the gaskets? one or both sides?

What should header bolts be torqued to?
Do you need to re-torque after a run-in time?

What bolt locks did you use?

I appreciate the knowledge..
Thanks for sharing it..
Marc

[beegshot]

Get a set of Earl's Graphite gaskets. I've been using them for years.

Do not use Stainless Steel bolts. A set of ARP 12-point bolts will do the trick.

Robert

[dobrostang]

buy the special header bolts with the very small bolt heads. I think its a 3/8" bolt with a 7/16" wrench on mine. You will appreciate/require the extra clearance. They have the lock washers built into them. As stated above never do stainless with aluminum - they exchange electrons and turn into fizzies.

I do use the silver anti-sieze. You will spend the rest of your daze with this car tightening the exhaust bolts once a year or so. No need to overtighten, just deal with it.

No antisieze on gaskets, nor sealants. I use FelPro exhaust gaskets, have used others without problems. Just don't get cheap...

BTW, make sure you get a good set of headers with a thick bolt plate. Some have thin plates that distort over time. I don't remember thicknesses, but make sure you at least match the thicknesses on expensive headers and you can't go wrong. If you get a chance to see them before buying, look at how thick and consistent the sealing surfaces look. On some they appear to be a weld bead that has been machined down. Look for thin spots on the width of the sealing surfaces. I've seen some I'd rather trash than put on my car even if I had paid for them.

Good Luck,

M

[mjb1032]

Thanks Guys, these are the ones I'm planning on getting soon.
JBA 1650S
Another question; Is there a trick to getting at the last 3 bolts on the right side? It looks like PITA!

[65fstbpieces]

You need patience and the bolts that Dobrostang suggests. I have those with the small Allen head socket inside the head to get it started. The Allen comes with the bolts. I cut one short for tight spots. Then I use a small box wrench to tighten into edelbrock head. I use the silver anti seize. For installing plugs which is a lot of fun, I use a Craftsmen 3/8" socket with the 3/4" box on the end for a box wrench when a ratchet will not fit. The JBA are very nice and solid.

[Alan _MacDougall]

ARP studs with 12 point nuts work well and don't seem to loosen up. You need the stud length of space between your headers and shock tower for easy installation.

[Mustang_zulu]

Originally Posted by mjb1032

Thanks Guys, these are the ones I'm planning on getting soon.
JBA 1650S
Another question; Is there a trick to getting at the last 3 bolts on the right side? It looks like PITA!

for my Edelbrock Performer RPM heads i used the anti-seize... a little goes a LOOOONG way fyi... when i install headers i never plan on starting the engine the same day.. i tork them first install, then the next day tork them again and you will find many loose bolts due to the gasket compressing... then i will fire it up.. letting the engine get up to temp, then shut it down and leave it till the next day and check torque again. you WILL find more will need tightening... over the last 20 years i found this to be pretty much a falesafe way to prevent leaks.... also the pic above i must comment on... don't waist your time or money on shortties... almost no gains... long tubes or manifolds... 2nd, use slotted gaskets (the ones that the end holes have slots for the 1st and last bolts so the gasket can slide into place). the best way is to only install the first and last bolt by hand, slide the gasket in (it will be easy), then proceed to install the rest of the bolts... of course not fully tighen them so you get even torque... headers can be a worst nightmare unless you spend the extra effort... personally i can't stand any sort of exhaust leak.. one of my OCD things in life..lol... good luck!!

[cornholio]

What heads do you have? High Port?

[kwkenf]

I've read that many people say to use Permatex Ultra Copper and no gasket.

Gasket Makers : Permatex® Ultra Copper® Maximum Temperature RTV Silicone Gasket Maker

[firefighter92]

Good fel-pro gaskets and one of these wrenches: VS14B, Wrench, Open End, 4-Way Angle Head, 7/16" . Kinda expensive, but well worth it.

My '69 has the same type header runner on the drivers side rear and one of those wrenches is the only way to get onto the bolts. I second the ARP header studs with the larger shank and smaller tip that you put in with an allen wrench and then have the locking nuts that don't back off as bad. http://www.summitracing.com/parts/ar...ages/make/ford

Chris

[mjb1032]

Originally Posted by cornholio

What heads do you have? High Port?

Edelbrock Performer 60329
Mustangs Unlimited - The Premier Source for Mustang, Shelby and Cougar Parts and Accessories

Firefighter,
Thanks for the link and welcome to the forum.
I appreciate the info.

[cornholio]

Originally Posted by mjb1032

Edelbrock Performer 60329
Mustangs Unlimited - The Premier Source for Mustang, Shelby and Cougar Parts and Accessories

Firefighter,
Thanks for the link and welcome to the forum.
I appreciate the info.

Okay. Just wondering, because I bought the Trick Flow high ports... Magnificent flowing heads out of the box, but nobody makes (or made at the time I purchased them 2.5 years ago)....a header for the high port design. Had to have them custom made....

[bartl]

If you have steel inserts I'd use ARP 12-point header bolts coated with Loctite RED threadlocker.

[mjb1032]

Bartl,
What Mustangzulu said makes a lot of sense. Headers are an item that will need retorquing, which defeats the purpose of the thread lock once you do that.
Unless I let the gaskets compress, run the car, etc. then remove each bolt,
& add the thread-lock for a final torque down.
Thanks