When you can buy THIS for $1995 brand new, why bother with a used, overbored and broken block? It's not like they made a '72 BOSS 302 for this date coded block to go back in to so IMHO it's basically scrap value metal. The main caps might be the most valuable parts but, of course, using them on anything else would precipitate a line bore.
When you can buy THIS for $1995 brand new, why bother with a used, overbored and broken block?
That ford racing block, if I remember correctly, has really short bores. Not what I would use if building a stroker motor. Probably would go Dart myself.
That boss block, for the right price, might be a good deal? How much would fixing the crack cost?
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What's a bolt on
That ford racing block, if I remember correctly, has really short bores. Not what I would use if building a stroker motor. Probably would go Dart myself.
That boss block, for the right price, might be a good deal? How much would fixing the crack cost?
If you're building a stroker motor from scratch why would you even start with an 8.2" block, even if it IS a 4-bolt main AND start with a block that you're going to need to go to .060 with, unless you can find .040 pistons and the block only needs to be bored .010....
If you're going to put it into a 67+ chassis for almost the same money you can start with a 9.5" deck 351W block in standard or big bore.
It's a service replacement block that's not in great shape. So like bartl suggested, i'd go with an aftermarket block.
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1970 Fastback (to be finished outside as a Boss 302 clone)
393 Windsor AFR 205 heads with 11.5:1 compression
Tremec TKO 5 Speed
Link to my Hub Garage and blog about my car http://www.hubgarage.com/mygarage/maxum96
When you can buy THIS for $1995 brand new, why bother with a used, overbored and broken block? It's not like they made a '72 BOSS 302 for this date coded block to go back in to so IMHO it's basically scrap value metal. The main caps might be the most valuable parts but, of course, using them on anything else would precipitate a line bore.
If the crack is repairable, it's worth quite a bit more than scrap value to someone with a '69 or '70 Boss 302 that needs an engine. They won't want a Ford Racing block. $1000 does seem steep for a block that needs work though.
For anything other than a restoration, I would go to a Dart block......Or like I bought last week off CL, a complete 351W ROLLER shortblock out of a Correct Craft for $125... never been bored and low hours, not even any ridge on the cylinders with crank, rods, pistons...
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'69 Coupe, Built 306, 4-Speed, Matte Black..... Old School RestoMod...Coming Attractions: 408 Stroker...
'90 Mustang LX, Built 306, 5-speed, cage, Screaming Yellow....3/14/12 Currently Getting TWIN TURBOS (always a change to make).....
1938 Cough,cough, Chev. 1/2 ton Owner built "Street Gasser" truck..327, 461X, Hillborn...old school all the way...
A Custom HD RoadKing...and too many Vintage Sleds to count...
If the crack is repairable, it's worth quite a bit more than scrap value to someone with a '69 or '70 Boss 302 that needs an engine. They won't want a Ford Racing block. $1000 does seem steep for a block that needs work though.
IMHO, if you have a '69 or '70 ORIGINAL BOSS302 without a motor ANYWAY, you'd be both smarter AND give the car more value using the FRPP piece than a whipped '72 service replacement block. In both cases it's NOM and, in both cases, it'll look like it belongs there.
BTW, I just found THIS SITE offering it for $1659.00. The big bore version for $1795 has rough finished bores of 4.115" and recommended maximum stroke of 3.4" so you could theoretically build one kick *** 8.2" deck 362ci Cleveland-headed screamer.
IMHO, if you have a '69 or '70 ORIGINAL BOSS302 without a motor ANYWAY, you'd be both smarter AND give the car more value using the FRPP piece than a whipped '72 service replacement block. In both cases it's NOM and, in both cases, it'll look like it belongs there.
BTW, I just found THIS SITE offering it for $1659.00. The big bore version for $1795 has rough finished bores of 4.115" and recommended maximum stroke of 3.4" so you could theoretically build one kick *** 8.2" deck 362ci Cleveland-headed screamer.
I disagree with the bolded part. Most Boss aficionados are purists. You lose a lot of value without screw in freeze plugs.
You lose a lot of value without screw in freeze plugs.
The Ford Racing Boss 302 block does have screw in freeze plugs. Although a serious Boss 302 enthusiast will be able to tell it's not an original block regardless.
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1970 Fastback (to be finished outside as a Boss 302 clone)
393 Windsor AFR 205 heads with 11.5:1 compression
Tremec TKO 5 Speed
Link to my Hub Garage and blog about my car http://www.hubgarage.com/mygarage/maxum96
Price is outrageous on that service block.
I've got an NOS one with a good sonic check card that I paid $1200 for.
The pricing hasn't skewed that radically over the last 6 years that a .030
over block with a "small" crack should be that expensive.
The last cracked one that I had properly fixed brought $800......
B302 blocks ARE hard to find but damaged/worn they just don't trade
for big bucks.
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That ford racing block, if I remember correctly, has really short bores. Not what I would use if building a stroker motor. Probably would go Dart myself.
You are correct. The bores are too short for most aftermarket pistons in a stroker application. without looking it up i think the Ford Stroker crate engines use a Mahle piston with a really short skirt. The Dart block is a better choice.
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