I actually DO use the peel and stick ones, just leave the paper crap on them... I only used em because I already had half a box of them sitting around. I just put the vinyl sides towards each other with the grease in between and all is well...
I've seen most of these tools around. What is the skill level needed to use these? I'm doing a complete front suspension & steering upgrade, I've called a few places around here for alignment prices info ect. I'm a lil nervous about the lack of detail their able to tell me.
I'm about to embark on doing my own alignment after dropping the UCA and installing Shaun's UCA and struts. I bought a magnetic gauge from goracing for $100. I'm using 3mil HD 55 gal garbage bags folded over, they're slippery then cow snot.
I've seen most of these tools around. What is the skill level needed to use these? I'm doing a complete front suspension & steering upgrade, I've called a few places around here for alignment prices info ect. I'm a lil nervous about the lack of detail their able to tell me.
$280 ish for the digital longacre caster/camber setup, and another $60 for toe plates.
Not the cheapest thing in the world, BUT if you even THINK you want to track the car, it's much cheaper than paying someone to change it back & forth from a track alignment to a street alignment.
I play with/build cars enough that it made sense to have a nice way to do it myself.
This tool is all you need to adjust caster and camber. Those other tools use the same principal, but are a lot more expensive. You have to hold this tool against the wheel for a couple of seconds while you turn the adjuster and let the bubble settle. Nothing else needed. I've tested these tools and they are dead nuts on. They can be calibrated with a straight level and your good to go. Usually, they do not require any calibration.
A couple of 12" x 12" pieces of sheet metal under the front tires allows very smooth turning of the wheels. A bit of grease on the underside of the sheet metal makes for real easy turning.
You have to make alignment measurements with the car on a level surface. Garage floors are usually level enough, but it should be checked. The floor at my new house requires 3/8" thick material to be put under the rear tires to get the car level. Otherwise, the caster measurement is incorrect and to a lesser degree the camber.
For toe, you can simply use a piece of string or, what I like to do is to project the front and back of the wheel to the floor with a straight level, mark the floor and measure between the marks from one side of the car to the other.
__________________
Tracy Blackford
Anaheim, CA
65 Mustang FB, 331 custom built with 289 H beam rods and 383W piston, 282S cam, self ported '70 351w heads, Dougs Tri-Y headers. 1.7 shaft rockers and 26986 beehives. Hurricane Single Plane and custom 750 HP. T5z and 3.50 9" posi rear. 430 HP @ 6500...not too shabby for old school heads!
How does one get the specs for proper alignment for different vehicles?
You can find the Factory specs for almost any car online. lots of newer cars only have front and rear toe adjustments. But there are ways to change camber and caster on most of them if you know what you are doing.
This tool is all you need to adjust caster and camber. Those other tools use the same principal, but are a lot more expensive. You have to hold this tool against the wheel for a couple of seconds while you turn the adjuster and let the bubble settle. Nothing else needed. I've tested these tools and they are dead nuts on. They can be calibrated with a straight level and your good to go. Usually, they do not require any calibration.
A couple of 12" x 12" pieces of sheet metal under the front tires allows very smooth turning of the wheels. A bit of grease on the underside of the sheet metal makes for real easy turning.
You have to make alignment measurements with the car on a level surface. Garage floors are usually level enough, but it should be checked. The floor at my new house requires 3/8" thick material to be put under the rear tires to get the car level. Otherwise, the caster measurement is incorrect and to a lesser degree the camber.
For toe, you can simply use a piece of string or, what I like to do is to project the front and back of the wheel to the floor with a straight level, mark the floor and measure between the marks from one side of the car to the other.
For toe, you can simply use a piece of string or, what I like to do is to project the front and back of the wheel to the floor with a straight level, mark the floor and measure between the marks from one side of the car to the other.
Can you describe this a little more. How do you get a level to contact with the wheels when the tire sides stick out farther?
__________________
A ship in harbor is safe, but that is not what ships are built for.
That's odd...I didn't even bother looking at that since they have always been fine for larger wheels. This one is good up to 18" but its $20 more. You should be able to find one for $40 at a racing supply or auto supply place
__________________
Tracy Blackford
Anaheim, CA
65 Mustang FB, 331 custom built with 289 H beam rods and 383W piston, 282S cam, self ported '70 351w heads, Dougs Tri-Y headers. 1.7 shaft rockers and 26986 beehives. Hurricane Single Plane and custom 750 HP. T5z and 3.50 9" posi rear. 430 HP @ 6500...not too shabby for old school heads!
The AutoGuide.com network consists of the largest network of enthusiast-owned enthusiast-operated automotive communities.
AutoGuide.com provides the latest car reviews, auto show coverage, new car prices, and automotive news. The AutoGuide network operates more than 100 automotive forums where our users consult peers for shopping information and advice, and share opinions as a community.
