upper control arm alignment - Vintage Mustang Forums
Vintage Mustang Forum
HomeForumGalleryClassifiedsAbout UsAdvertiseContact Us
» Auto Insurance
» Featured Product
Go Back   Vintage Mustang Forums > General Discussion > Vintage Mustang Forum
Vintage-Mustang.com is the premier Ford Mustang Forum on the internet. Registered Users do not see the above ads.
Reply
 
Thread Tools
Old 12-16-2012, 11:43 AM   #1 (permalink)
Junior Member
 
Join Date: Oct 2012
Location: los angeles,ca
Posts: 25
Default upper control arm alignment

I am redoing my front suspension and when i was taking out the upper control arm all the shims fell out. so i guess my question is should i just put all the new parts in and take it to an alignment shop and have them adjust it for the correct caster and camber? i am putting in the global west uca with the shelby drop with 1 inch lowering springs rated at 600lbs.
i am running 225/45 17 tires in the front if it matters.

I am also replacing all the steering components, any thoughts on roller idler arms? do you suggest the open tracker or maybe just get the roller bushing and install it in the arm i have now.

car is a 1965 fastback with manual steering.

thanks
lizardking is offline   Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message
Sponsored Links
Advertisement
 
Old 12-16-2012, 12:25 PM   #2 (permalink)
Senior Member
 
cmefly's Avatar
 
Join Date: Mar 2011
Location: Bonney Lake, Wa
Posts: 2,655
Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by lizardking View Post
I am redoing my front suspension and when i was taking out the upper control arm all the shims fell out. so i guess my question is should i just put all the new parts in and take it to an alignment shop and have them adjust it for the correct caster and camber? i am putting in the global west uca with the shelby drop with 1 inch lowering springs rated at 600lbs.
i am running 225/45 17 tires in the front if it matters.

I am also replacing all the steering components, any thoughts on roller idler arms? do you suggest the open tracker or maybe just get the roller bushing and install it in the arm i have now.

car is a 1965 fastback with manual steering.

thanks
Since you have done the shelby drop I would remove two 1/8" shims from your stack. When you do the drop the camber goes more positive so removing the two shims will bring your camber back were it was. I would then divide your stack of shims in two equal stacks and remove 1 shim from the rear stack and add it to the front. Then you will need an alignment. Set your camber around -.5 and your caster around +2 degrees for manual steer and your toe at 1/16 to 1/8 toe in. I do not like more then 2 degrees caster on a manual steer car that is a daily driver as the steering starts to feel heavy at low speeds, some do not mind.

Last edited by cmefly; 12-16-2012 at 01:52 PM.
cmefly is offline   Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message
Old 12-16-2012, 04:32 PM   #3 (permalink)
Senior Member
 
slow-poke's Avatar
 
Join Date: Mar 2008
Location: Canada
Posts: 1,051
Default

I would increase caster if you drive fast.
__________________
N/A 408 c.i. G-Force 5 spd. 10.x through the mufflers
slow-poke is online now   Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message
Old 12-16-2012, 05:54 PM   #4 (permalink)
Senior Member
 
bartl's Avatar
 
Join Date: Mar 2001
Location: West Rutland, Vermont, USA
Posts: 17,575
Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by lizardking View Post
I am redoing my front suspension and when i was taking out the upper control arm all the shims fell out. so i guess my question is should i just put all the new parts in and take it to an alignment shop and have them adjust it for the correct caster and camber? i am putting in the global west uca with the shelby drop with 1 inch lowering springs rated at 600lbs.
i am running 225/45 17 tires in the front if it matters.

That's what I'd do, but if you end up with one or both wheels really tilted in at the top, just add an equal number of shims to the front and back to straighten it up.

Frankly speaking, I don't think I'll ever bring a vintage car to an alignment shop unless I can be the one directing the adjustments. My friend, who I used to go see and would let me do my own alignments had a stroke last year and his shop is now closed though. I'll probably end up getting some gauges and doing it myself in my garage.


I am also replacing all the steering components, any thoughts on roller idler arms? do you suggest the open tracker or maybe just get the roller bushing and install it in the arm i have now.

car is a 1965 fastback with manual steering.

thanks
Anything that tightens up the steering can't be a bad thing, but sometimes the cushion of an elastomer helps soften vibrations. I'd consider rollerizing the idler arm if I could do it (don't see why not) on my quick-steer arm.
__________________


6F09A 63A 8 26 09D 71 1 5
bartl is offline   Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message
Old 12-16-2012, 06:03 PM   #5 (permalink)
Junior Member
 
Join Date: Oct 2012
Location: los angeles,ca
Posts: 25
Default

cool thanks for the help guys.
lizardking is offline   Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message
Old 12-16-2012, 06:26 PM   #6 (permalink)
Senior Member
 
Join Date: Mar 2001
Location: Tunkhannock PA
Posts: 11,500
Default

My $.02 thrown in. I'm in the process as of now (slowly) of installing Street or Track UCA, lowered 1". I know from reading the how to's on lowering UCA they say at least with stock arms is to remove 3/16-1/4" of shims equally as a starter. I know that GW includes a spacer. I would follow their initial settings on shims if any. According to the Ford shop manual on 65-66 each 1/32" shim is good for 1/3* camber or 1/2* caster and not to exceed 1/16" difference between shim packs. This would mean a maximum of 1* caster possible. Maybe make all the shims, divide them into 2 equal stacks then subtract 8/32" from one stack and 10/32" from the other. The stack with 10/32" would go in the back and the stack -8/32" in the front. This theoretically would be the same as removing 1/4" plus an additional 1/16 in the rear and 1/4" in the front to give you 1* caster difference and be able some what to drive to a shop.
__________________
Tom


Rehab is for quiters!

Huskinhano is offline   Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message
Old 12-16-2012, 06:56 PM   #7 (permalink)
Senior Member
 
bartl's Avatar
 
Join Date: Mar 2001
Location: West Rutland, Vermont, USA
Posts: 17,575
Default

I was under the impression that they all fell out and he didn't know how many were where....
__________________


6F09A 63A 8 26 09D 71 1 5
bartl is offline   Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message
Old 12-16-2012, 08:42 PM   #8 (permalink)
Junior Member
 
Join Date: Oct 2012
Location: los angeles,ca
Posts: 25
Default

yes all the shims fell out. rookie mistake. huskinhano is correct that the gw uca comes with a spacer already. so would that mean i wouldn't have to use most of my shims?
lizardking is offline   Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message
Old 12-16-2012, 11:21 PM   #9 (permalink)
Senior Member
 
Join Date: Mar 2001
Location: Tunkhannock PA
Posts: 11,500
Default

I'm not stating this by fact but for some reason I recall that GW builds 3* caster in their arms. If so maybe just stick them on as is with out shims, do a quicky toe setting and call it a day.
__________________
Tom


Rehab is for quiters!

Huskinhano is offline   Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message
Old 12-16-2012, 11:23 PM   #10 (permalink)
Senior Member
 
Join Date: Mar 2001
Location: Tunkhannock PA
Posts: 11,500
Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by bartl View Post
I was under the impression that they all fell out and he didn't know how many were where....
I think that's what he said. I was thinking by taking all the shims and dividing them into 2 stacks but with a 1/16" difference between the two would be a good starting point.
__________________
Tom


Rehab is for quiters!

Huskinhano is offline   Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message
Old 12-17-2012, 12:58 AM   #11 (permalink)
Junior Member
 
Join Date: Oct 2012
Location: los angeles,ca
Posts: 25
Default

im going to try that this week and see what happens. I have the entire front suspension and steering out at the moment. i am throwing on some headers and new motor mounts this week as well. i figure maybe do that first while i have some room to work with.
lizardking is offline   Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message
Sponsored Links
Advertisement
 
Reply

Quick Reply
Message:
Options

Register Now

In order to be able to post messages on the Vintage Mustang Forums forums, you must first register.
Please enter your desired user name, your email address and other required details in the form below.
User Name:
Password
Please enter a password for your user account. Note that passwords are case-sensitive.
Password:
Confirm Password:
Email Address
Please enter a valid email address for yourself.
Email Address:

Log-in

Human Verification

In order to verify that you are a human and not a spam bot, please enter the answer into the following box below based on the instructions contained in the graphic.



Thread Tools

Posting Rules
You may post new threads
You may post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is On
Trackbacks are On
Pingbacks are On
Refbacks are Off


Powered by vBadvanced CMPS v3.2.2

All times are GMT -4. The time now is 04:29 AM.


Powered by vBulletin® Copyright ©2000 - 2014, Jelsoft Enterprises Ltd.
SEO by vBSEO 3.3.2 ©2009, Crawlability, Inc.