Pertronix starting problem

[CHRISCADE]

Just fired and broke in my hi-po only to find a curious and frustrating issue. I can operate the key at the ignition but when I try and start the car I am getting a clicking sound originating at the distributor (pertronix module). The car can be fired remotely with a bypass trigger but when attemptng to start at the ignition, no joy. Has anyone out there had any experience similar or can offer any advice or suggestions in regards to where to begin troubleshooting? Thank you in advance.

[bartl]

Do you have the "I" and "S" leads crossed at the starter solenoid?

[CHRISCADE]

Nope, everything is wired like it should be and prior to today, I was able to start from the ignition switch. Really stumped with the clicking at the distributor module so I believe that is where the issue may be but curious if anyone may have seen this issue before.

[bartl]

Well, if the hall-effect trigger just happens to be in the right place, turning the key on and off can immediately charge, then short the coil primary which would not only result in a possible noise from the module, but also a spark from the coil wire.

[Blues Power]

if the modual was bad it would just turn over and not start.
clicking is usally attributed to a dead bat or SR issues.
a bad bat ground cable or other grounding issues in the starting curcuit will have click issues as well


EDIT Dont overlook the grounding strap inside the dizzy. the pert needs that in order to work correctly.

[CHRISCADE]

The battery is brand new and fully charged and a new tested solenoid, so the clicking sound is definitely coming from the distributor. I will have to check the ground inside the dizzy but it is odd to me that it would work one week leading up to firing the engine and then not the next.

[LindenBruce]

That engine sure is purdy. I have always loved the exotic look of a six pack induction system. Which brand radiator did you go with? B

[restodude]

Is your neutral safety switch connected?

[Russ]

looks like a griffin radiator, paint it black and no one would know :-)

[CHRISCADE]

I did go with a Griffin but I also had the original 24" 3 row recored and redone. I just have to find someone who needs one now since I opted for Aluminum.

I didn't think about the neutral safety switch, but it shouldn't be an issue since it is a manual and the reverse light harness is connected. Plus it didn't cause a problem initially, as it turned over prior to having to pull a valve cover to adjust the solid valvetrain.

Thanks for the compliments on the six pack, as I couldn't pass it up from Fleabay for $900. I yanked my Shelby Aluminum Intake and the Holley 715 to throw that monster on it.

[bartl]

If you're saying that now your car isn't cranking then you either have power at the "S" wire connected to the solenoid, when the ignition is turned to START or don't. If you have power and it doesn't crank you need to replace the solenoid. If you don't have power then you need to check continuity of the wire between the solenoid and the "S" post of the ignition switch and for power AT the ignition switch when turned to START. If no power at the ignition switch replace the switch.

PS: I should note that there should be a small jumper wire connection at the end of the harness where it would normally connect to the NSS harness on an auto trans car to complete the circuit too.

[Huskinhano]

Originally Posted by bartl

If you're saying that now your car isn't cranking then you either have power at the "S" wire connected to the solenoid, when the ignition is turned to START or don't. If you have power and it doesn't crank you need to replace the solenoid. If you don't have power then you need to check continuity of the wire between the solenoid and the "S" post of the ignition switch and for power AT the ignition switch when turned to START. If no power at the ignition switch replace the switch.

PS: I should note that there should be a small jumper wire connection at the end of the harness where it would normally connect to the NSS harness on an auto trans car to complete the circuit too.

I was thinking along the same lines. When my 66 still had the C4 I swapped motors, as I pulled the old motor, it got hung up on the nuertral safety harness from the fire wall to the solenoid stretching it and breaking the copper wire but not the insulation. I did a little head scratching wondering what happened. I ended up jumping out the harness at the fire wall after I found out where the break was. My guess a voltage problem related to the harness from the ignition switch such as a bad connection.

[snakebite8]

did u ever get the problem fixed?