David, did you say you did or did not use a step drill bit?
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Steven
Hickory, NC
1966 Coupe
Replaced
Full floor pan
Firewall
Full cowl
Radiator support
Up next:
Shelby drop, 4 wheel drum to disc conversion, rebuild front suspension/steering, taillight panel, trunk floor,302 and AOD upgrade, wiring harnesses back in, and hopefully only patch panels on the quarters
E=MChuck Norris
I did not- Not sure how well one would work- I started with maybe 1/8 bit, drilled (remember down and back is the new position) then jumped about 3 sizes for the next hole. When you get around 3/8 or so- you will prob have to go one size at a time- ending with the big size (IIRC 17/32)
Wear gloves- I got blisters really quick
Remember drill wood fast, drill metal slow (or you'll be askin santa for new drill bits for christmas)
On 65/66 cars I would drill it 17/32", on a 67+ car i would go 1/2". The reason why I do it that way is so the control arm bolts are easier to move when shimming and adding lots of caster on the earlier cars.
Why the difference? 64-73 uses the same 1/2" bolts. If your holes are in the right place 1/2" is fine. You can always use a round file if you're a hair off.
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Amateur restorer. (Well, once in a while I have been paid for it)
Why the difference? 64-73 uses the same 1/2" bolts. If your holes are in the right place 1/2" is fine. You can always use a round file if you're a hair off.
It makes it easier to move the control arm when you are setting up the alignment having to use shims on the early cars and when you start adding more +caster, especially on a power steering car when you might want more then 2 degrees. you do not bind up the bolts in the holes. It just makes life easier for the guy doing the alignment with no downside to the slightly larger hole.
It makes it easier to move the control arm when you are setting up the alignment having to use shims on the early cars and when you start adding more +caster, especially on a power steering car when you might want more then 2 degrees. you do not bind up the bolts in the holes. It just makes life easier for the guy doing the alignment with no downside to the slightly larger hole.
+1 on this. The arms will fit OK if you drill 1/2" holes, but when you have to pry them back to add shims (as you will with 65-66 cars), you (or your alignment guy) will be very glad to have the extra wiggle room.
MrFreeze
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"Life is what happens to you while you're busy making other plans."
'66 GT Fastback show car, nightmist blue, warmed up original 289 & T-5Z, 3.80 trac-loc, AC, PS, pony interior, Retrosound, rally pac
'66 Coupe driver, Bullitt green, 302HO w/ 351W heads, roller rockers, Holley 600, T-5Z, 3.55 trac-loc, collapsible column, tank armor, disk brakes, shoulder belts
'11 BMW 335i X-drive, 6 speed manual, all the bells and whistles
Did any of you use step drill bits? If not, what are the sharpest, hardest bits to use?
__________________
Steven
Hickory, NC
1966 Coupe
Replaced
Full floor pan
Firewall
Full cowl
Radiator support
Up next:
Shelby drop, 4 wheel drum to disc conversion, rebuild front suspension/steering, taillight panel, trunk floor,302 and AOD upgrade, wiring harnesses back in, and hopefully only patch panels on the quarters
E=MChuck Norris
A 1/8" pilot hole, followed by a 1/2" drill should do the job perfectly. Clean the burrs with a round file, and you're good to go.
Exactly what I did... not a single problem.
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Love me a Stang
68 coupe with a 351W and fmx
Mods: a lot... just ask if you're interested
07 gt
99 Gixxer 750 (When four wheels are too many)
Did any of you use step drill bits? If not, what are the sharpest, hardest bits to use?
I did, partially. I used a 1/8" bit for the pilot holes, then used a step bit to near 1/2", and then finished it off with a regular 1/2" bit. Going that far with the step bit made it a little hard to keep the 1/2" centered though, so you may want to stop sooner with it. I had to do just a little bit of filing after using the 1/2".
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-William
'65 Mustang coupe, 200ci 0.040 over six, 3.03 3 speed. 29U (July 29, 1965) build date, originally Silver Smoke Gray.
Clay Smith 264/264-110 cam, stock 1100 carb, DS2 distributor, HEI ignition module.
Stock suspension, Shelby drop, dual master conversion. My Mustang blog
I did, partially. I used a 1/8" bit for the pilot holes, then used a step bit to near 1/2", and then finished it off with a regular 1/2" bit. Going that far with the step bit made it a little hard to keep the 1/2" centered though, so you may want to stop sooner with it. I had to do just a little bit of filing after using the 1/2".
That's exactly what I did, I used the step drill to get close then switched over to a brand new 1/2" drill bit for the final hole. Man, that is hard steel.
I did, partially. I used a 1/8" bit for the pilot holes, then used a step bit to near 1/2", and then finished it off with a regular 1/2" bit. Going that far with the step bit made it a little hard to keep the 1/2" centered though, so you may want to stop sooner with it. I had to do just a little bit of filing after using the 1/2".
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drilling for Shelby drop
