Complete Noob about to buy a new gas Tank

Cavalier · 12-20-2012, 11:45 AM

My tank leaks. A lot. So I'm buying a new one. Figure I'll replace the sending unit while I'm at it. Here's what I'm looking at buying:

64 65 66 Mustang Gas Fuel Tank and Sending Unit New | eBay

You think that's an okay purchase? Any reason why I should buy new screws? Also, maybe a new filler hose, but I should be able to get that at Advance.

On a completely unrelated note: I need to flush my radiator and rear diff. With the radiator do I just take the upper and lower hoses off, shove a hose into the radiator cap hole and wash it out. Then re-attach the hoses and pour new coolant/water in? As with the rear diff: Take the drain plug out, squeeze some new gear oil into the top filler hole? That simple?

Thanks for your patience.

sessayan · 12-20-2012, 11:50 AM

I am doing the exact same thing on my 65 and I went with this kit.

Mustang Fuel Tank With Drain Plug Kit 1965-1968 | CJ Pony Parts

Includes everything I need outside of some paint.

wareagle · 12-20-2012, 11:50 AM

This is a more complete kit. A little more, but worth it

Mustang Fuel Tank With Drain Plug Kit 1965-1968 | CJ Pony Parts

And I would drain your radiator using the pet-****. You could remove the hoses after it is fully drained. Either way you are gonna get coolant everywhere...

I normally flush my radiator with vinegar. Let the car run a few minutes to go thru the full system, then flush that out. Run some distilled water thru next, drain, then fill with a good 50/50 coolant...

As for the third member, yeah just drain then refill with the correct gear oil

Cavalier · 12-20-2012, 12:14 PM

Thanks guys. I went ahead and bought the one you recommended. Ya'll are great.

Cavalier · 12-20-2012, 12:16 PM

One more things: Should I add a fuel filter to my 'stang?

sessayan · 12-20-2012, 12:18 PM

Not sure if you noticed the step by step instructions on the site. I am going to follow that to complete the install as I am a noob as well!

Mustang Fuel Tank Kit (1965-1968) Installation Instructions

Cavalier · 12-20-2012, 12:25 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by sessayan

Not sure if you noticed the step by step instructions on the site. I am going to follow that to complete the install as I am a noob as well!

Mustang Fuel Tank Kit (1965-1968) Installation Instructions

Am I gonna need to buy that calk fuel tank seal?

wareagle · 12-20-2012, 12:26 PM

I did, but a lot of people here recommend the 3M stuff. Think you can pick it up at the local parts stores.

wareagle · 12-20-2012, 12:27 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Cavalier

One more things: Should I add a fuel filter to my 'stang?

Yup. A see-thru inline filter before the pump

gtonavy · 12-20-2012, 01:54 PM

I just installed a 70 gas tank in my 67 conv.

One thing I noticed is that the metal on the new tank is thinner than the one I replaced. Bought mine from CJ Pony. Tank was made in Canada

I would ask each supple what gauge of steel they use for the tank.
I should have asked this question.

Gary

22GT · 12-20-2012, 02:04 PM

Quote:

Any reason why I should buy new screws?

Sure, unless the old ones are perfect.

Quote:

Also, maybe a new filler hose, but I should be able to get that at Advance.

Really? If they actually have it, that would be interesting.

Quote:

Am I gonna need to buy that calk fuel tank seal?

Yes, unless you can breath exhaust fumes with immunity.

Quote:

On a completely unrelated note: I need to flush my radiator and rear diff. With the radiator do I just take the upper and lower hoses off, shove a hose into the radiator cap hole and wash it out.

No. The hose goes on the lower outlet, to reverse-flush the tubes.

Quote:

Then re-attach the hoses and pour new coolant/water in?

Yep.

Quote:

As with the rear diff: Take the drain plug out, squeeze some new gear oil into the top filler hole? That simple?

Unless some speed shop has added one, there is no differential drain.

Quote:

One more things: Should I add a fuel filter to my 'stang?

Why? The come with a fuel filter from the factory.

Quote:

Yup. A see-thru inline filter before the pump

Ew. I've thrown a lot of those away over the years.

Fast68 · 12-23-2012, 05:36 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Cavalier

You think that's an okay purchase? Any reason why I should buy new screws? Also, maybe a new filler hose, but I should be able to get that at Advance.

I bought fine thread screws and locking nuts at the hardware store for my car instead of the sheet metal screws. Just an idea!

22GT · 12-23-2012, 07:42 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Fast68

I bought fine thread screws and locking nuts at the hardware store for my car instead of the sheet metal screws. Just an idea!

Hard to install, but very secure. I have never needed to do so.

Fast68 · 12-23-2012, 08:41 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by 22GT

Hard to install, but very secure. I have never needed to do so.

It went fairly fast with one person in the trunk with a mini ratchet and someone else underneath the tank holding the locking nuts in place with a closed end.

Murphy's Law is cleaning out the hardware store of all their fine thread screws in the size you need then finding out when installing them that you bought three different brand screws and one of them won't thread the nuts the other two do.. then having to scrap those nuts and also find matching screws so they are all the same brand...

PonyDoc · 12-23-2012, 02:11 PM

I have used the 70 tanks in all of my early cars, from the 64 convert, 64 K, and 68 convert. I do a lot of driving, so having a 400+ mile range means a lot less stopping. When I still had the 2.80 rear, I could easily get 500+ miles with the OD.