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Old 12-24-2012, 10:40 PM   #1 (permalink)
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Default Dynacorn Shock Tower Fitment

Can't seem to get one side of the lower flanges on both towers to sit flush against the frame rail.

I have the shock tower brace installed and the motor mount piece bolted to the towers.

Anyone else run into this issue?

Not sure how to fix it.


Ideas?
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Old 12-25-2012, 01:59 AM   #2 (permalink)
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Well, can't you pull it in with a clamp and weld it? The camera flash has washed out the image so it hard to really make it out. B
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Old 12-25-2012, 07:50 AM   #3 (permalink)
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Another big clamp or two like what you got will take of that.
Lynn
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Old 12-25-2012, 08:52 AM   #4 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by LindenBruce View Post
Well, can't you pull it in with a clamp and weld it? The camera flash has washed out the image so it hard to really make it out. B
Quote:
Originally Posted by LynnBob 65 Mustang View Post
Another big clamp or two like what you got will take of that.
Lynn
I wish just adding a clamp was all that I needed.
I've attached a drawing that better shows the problem.

You can see the 90 degree bend is significantly below the frame rail so clamp won't work.
This is the situation on both side.

Anyone else seen this?

I'm thinking I might have to cut off the flange at the bend and weld another one over top of it
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File Type: jpg Shock tower dwg.JPG (11.9 KB, 54 views)
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Old 12-25-2012, 09:19 AM   #5 (permalink)
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First, Merry Christmas!

The repro bits are just that and often are not exact in their shape and form. I know this first hand. In your situation I would adjust so both sides are equal and weld them in. Using a MiG will allow for a considerable amount of gap fill especially if you use a weave bead. Clean the welding surfaces down to bare steel and you'll be set.
I have replaced rear quarters; floors; firewall and everything ahead of the firewall in addition to a roof replacement.

I am located just an hour or less, south of you (4 miles east of Ithaca) if you want to look at how I did mine. It's a 68 FB that I have done lots of work on. It is in a heated and well lit garage. Not done yet due to too many other projects jumping into the mix.
Let me know if you want to check this out and I'll send directions etc. Glad to assist in any way

Russ

Last edited by 1-18-68; 12-25-2012 at 09:22 AM.
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Old 12-25-2012, 12:44 PM   #6 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 1-18-68 View Post
First, Merry Christmas!

The repro bits are just that and often are not exact in their shape and form. I know this first hand. In your situation I would adjust so both sides are equal and weld them in. Using a MiG will allow for a considerable amount of gap fill especially if you use a weave bead. Clean the welding surfaces down to bare steel and you'll be set.
I have replaced rear quarters; floors; firewall and everything ahead of the firewall in addition to a roof replacement.

I am located just an hour or less, south of you (4 miles east of Ithaca) if you want to look at how I did mine. It's a 68 FB that I have done lots of work on. It is in a heated and well lit garage. Not done yet due to too many other projects jumping into the mix.
Let me know if you want to check this out and I'll send directions etc. Glad to assist in any way

Russ
Thanks for the invite Russ. Merry Christmas to you too!!
I might have to make a trip down there! Sounds like I have a similar setup as you, gotta love that heated garage for sure.

How would you make the sides equal. I was thinking of cutting off the flange at the bend then weld another L shaped flange along side of it. I'd put some rosette welds as well as weld along the edge.

I was hoping someone else had the same issue so I could compare notes and to make sure I'm not doing something wrong

I have also done quite a bit if metal work with replacement parts that needed tweaking. So far I've installed a full floor pan, upper and lower cowl, replaced both toe boards, repaired parts of the firewall (I bought a new one and cut out what I needed), floor supports, cross member, repaired the frame rails, new pass and driver torque boxes, and installed subframe connectors with X-brace all on a home built rotisserie.
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Old 12-25-2012, 04:20 PM   #7 (permalink)
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I think I have it almost figured out. I was lining everything up from the top down. So this time I lined it up from the bottom up. It is not perfect but the gap is a lot less. I think I might be able to work with it
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Old 12-25-2012, 05:18 PM   #8 (permalink)
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BFH Done
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Old 12-25-2012, 05:44 PM   #9 (permalink)
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BFH Done

+1

Ford just slapped these cars together in the day. We usually are far more exacting restoring them than when they were new.
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Old 12-31-2012, 08:25 PM   #10 (permalink)
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Default Help me please

OK, I've been f'ing around with this for a few days.
If I line up the tower and bolt on the motor support bracket, the flanges don't line up underneath (see the pic in the first thread).
If I clamp the flange to the frame rail it doesn't line up with the tower.

Someone has had to run into this situation.

What to do.

As far as the BFH, I don't know which part to hit!
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Old 12-31-2012, 08:45 PM   #11 (permalink)
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I'm no expert.

Have to figure out if the left flange is too tall or the right on is too short (maybe both). Once you figure that out, modify accordingly. With a welder and a grinder you can do anything.
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