Originally Posted by 1-18-68
First, Merry Christmas!
The repro bits are just that and often are not exact in their shape and form. I know this first hand. In your situation I would adjust so both sides are equal and weld them in. Using a MiG will allow for a considerable amount of gap fill especially if you use a weave bead. Clean the welding surfaces down to bare steel and you'll be set.
I have replaced rear quarters; floors; firewall and everything ahead of the firewall in addition to a roof replacement.
I am located just an hour or less, south of you (4 miles east of Ithaca) if you want to look at how I did mine. It's a 68 FB that I have done lots of work on. It is in a heated and well lit garage. Not done yet due to too many other projects jumping into the mix.
Let me know if you want to check this out and I'll send directions etc. Glad to assist in any way
Thanks for the invite Russ. Merry Christmas to you too!!
I might have to make a trip down there! Sounds like I have a similar setup as you, gotta love that heated garage for sure.
How would you make the sides equal. I was thinking of cutting off the flange at the bend then weld another L shaped flange along side of it. I'd put some rosette welds as well as weld along the edge.
I was hoping someone else had the same issue so I could compare notes and to make sure I'm not doing something wrong
I have also done quite a bit if metal work with replacement parts that needed tweaking. So far I've installed a full floor pan, upper and lower cowl, replaced both toe boards, repaired parts of the firewall (I bought a new one and cut out what I needed), floor supports, cross member, repaired the frame rails, new pass and driver torque boxes, and installed subframe connectors with X-brace all on a home built rotisserie.