[65' I6] Black ash/smoke from exhaust, no power on cold start, bad mileage
Recently I posted a topic regarding my engine's lack of power on a cold start, and got some replies that perhaps the choke butterfly is too open, letting too much air in. This may be the case, however, I did not mention that the exhaust also lets out A LOT of black gunk during cold start, and when stepping on the gas pedal, more black smoke comes out.
Is it possible that the carb fuel float is not working properly? It's an automatic choke autolite 1100.. carb tag is not there so I'm not sure which exactly. Also, lately it's burning more gas than usual, which is causing me to speculate that too much fuel is entering the engine from a bad float.
I'd like to get some help to diagnose the issue before I start taking anything apart. Thanks in advance.
I checked just now. Plugs 1, 2, and 3 looked good. Plugs 4, 5, and 6 were pretty black and had oil on them. I know that's not a good sign! What else should I check?
I'm no mechanic, so I'm hoping a more experienced VMFer will correct me if I am wrong, but it sounds like you may have a few worn rings. That would allow oil into the chambers where it would foul the plugs (oil on the plugs from the inside) diminish your MPG and be rougher than normal to start, when the engine is cold and lack normal acceleration when at operating tempurature. It would also explain the black smoke - burning oil!
If possible, take a picture of your plugs so others can see them and better diagnose what's wrong.
I believe a compression test would validate/invalidate this. You can get one at any auto store or tool store. Fairly easy instructions.
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Dogface GI
1965 200ci I6 Hard-top,
Black & Wimbeldon-White and Awesome Car All-Over!
5F07T381000
Last edited by Dogface GI; 12-26-2012 at 06:09 PM.
Reason: Added info about burning oil.
Thanks for the reply! I'm not sure if this is the problem, as my acceleration goes back to normal as soon as the engine heats up in about 10-15 minutes. I will go get a compression test to check out the cylinders.
It would also explain the black smoke - burning oil!
Oil burning would give you blue smoke NOT black smoke.
Blue smoke is oil.
Black smoke is from burning rich or something not firing correctly.
White smoke is water or coolant.
If it is black I would say you got a carb or ignition problem making you burn rich on those cylinders or something is not firing right on those cylinders..
If it is burning rich it will also cause him to loose power because the fuel isn't being burned as it should, thus no power and black sooty oily deposits on those cylinder plugs.
Lynn
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'99 GT automatic
CDC Shaker scoop, K&N Filter
MAC cat back
Max Speed 1 ½” Lowering springs
KYB GR2 shocks and struts
Cobra front brakes
+1...
If you haven't done a full tune up on it lately, new plugs, wires, cap, rotor, points, coil, etc. do it now. Even if that isn't your problem, more then likely it is needed anyway if you have never done it since you got it or can't remember when it was done.
That would rule that out entirely and it is just not needlessly throwing money out the window as it should be done anyway as it is a preventative maintenance thing.
Lynn
__________________
'99 GT automatic
CDC Shaker scoop, K&N Filter
MAC cat back
Max Speed 1 ½” Lowering springs
KYB GR2 shocks and struts
Cobra front brakes
I recently changed the plugs, which ended up working horribly so I put the old ones back in. I ordered an electronic ignition which I will put in when it arrives.
For the oil on my plug threads, it might be because I've got a leaky valve cover gasket. I'm changing that today or tomorrow so I'll see if it helps.
Quote:
Originally Posted by bartl
+1 on carburetion problem, most likely a malfunctioning choke mechanism, although a weak spark/bad points can also do this.
How do I regulate the choke mechanism? The butterfly seems to open during cold start. If I close it with my finger, the idle speed decreases. If I rotate the thermostat that would just change the rate at which the flap opens, correct?
sounds like you need a good carb set up incl all the linkages adjusted.
best bet is to get a chiltons manual and start thumbing thru it until you feel comfortable enuf to tackle the job.
I can almost guarentee that if you take it to a shop and if they dont employ an old timer most of em wont know how to do it correctly anyways
so better of learning yourself.
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1970 Mach 1 San Jose built Dec 23 1969. Marti says 1 of 7. Purchased in 1987. Original family owner of the powertrain 351C 2v FMX.
1993 GT 11,000 miles, Built 2-12-93 Auto, 3:27 Axle, cloth, sunroof. Untouched except for rubber and battery, Purchased new 8-3-93. still has the factory windshield fluid and new car smell.
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