Ok gang...I have read many a thread about how/why to wire your Pertronix equipped Mustang to eliminate the pink resistance wire and run a full 12v to your car. It is also my understanding that the original Pertronix will run fine with the pink wire in service and the Pert. II and beyond will not. I have a number of cars that are all running the original Pertronix and pink wire and all rum fine..
My question is: Has anyone done the bypass and run the 12v to your coil and does the car start/run/idle perform better?
Any experiences to share?
Thanks!
Ok gang...I have read many a thread about how/why to wire your Pertronix equipped Mustang to eliminate the pink resistance wire and run a full 12v to your car. It is also my understanding that the original Pertronix will run fine with the pink wire in service and the Pert. II and beyond will not. I have a number of cars that are all running the original Pertronix and pink wire and all rum fine..
My question is: Has anyone done the bypass and run the 12v to your coil and does the car start/run/idle perform better?
Any experiences to share?
Thanks!
It seems that I was one of the few that could not run my pertronix I with the resistor wire in place. Before I rewired my car, I was having electrical problems all of the time. One of them was the resistor wire wasn't even providing the minimum voltage to the pertronix. So from my experience, 12 volts made all the difference.
I am running full 12 volts. I just added an additional wire bypassing the resistor so i have both resisted and full 12 volts. I have only run it with the 12 volt wire so I can't tell you if it works better or not. Seems to be fine as is though.
I can't offer if it runs better... I bypassed the resistance wire per the instructions when I put it in. I have had no problems with it though. I am, however, a firm believer in if it ain't broke... don't fix it.
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Love me a Stang
68 coupe with a 351W and fmx
Mods: a lot... just ask if you're interested
07 gt
99 Gixxer 750 (When four wheels are too many)
I'm still running a pertronix 1 with the pink wire intact. The car starts and run great and as with Franks68coupe, I also believe if it ain't broke don't fix it.
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DARE TO BE DIFFERENT. STAY INLINE
1966 Mustang Convertible, candy apple red, black interior, black power top with glass window, I6, autolite 1100 carb. Pertronix Ingitor, C4 auto transmission, Scarebird 4 lug disc brake conversion, dual master cylinder conversion.
1976 Cobra II, white with blue strips and blue interior, 302 cid, auto trans, blackjack headers. Restoration in process.
I ran a P1 since 1995 off the stock wiring at it ran fine.
went back to points last spring and it runs just as fine.
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1970 Mach 1 San Jose built Dec 23 1969. Marti says 1 of 7. Purchased in 1987. Original family owner of the powertrain 351C 2v FMX.
1993 GT 11,000 miles, Built 2-12-93 Auto, 3:27 Axle, cloth, sunroof. Untouched except for rubber and battery, Purchased new 8-3-93. still has the factory windshield fluid and new car smell.
I converted a dual point distributor to a Pertronix I, and it ran just fine. At the time, I didn't know anything about the pink resistor wire. The pink wire is still there, but I will be bypassing it soon when I put my rebuilt engine and tranny in the car...I upgraded to a Pertronix II system.
The pink wire / Pertronix issue will seemingly never go away. The Pertronix unit requires 12v to function properly, but an OE-type ignition coil does not. I power the unit with a separate 12v wire from the ignition switch, while my coil receives the correct 7v through the resister wire. The problems arise because most people either do not understand this, or do not feel like running a separate wire and just want to power the unit from the coil positive terminal, regardless of the laws of electricity. Bypassing the resister wire with an OE-type coil doubles the current through the primary windings, and will overheat it sooner or later. The resister wire may be bypassed if using a coil intended for a 12v primary voltage.
I have used the pertronix 1 version in a couple of cars without removing the resistor wire and they have worked just fine.
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68 J code sprint, 408W with vic jr top end, Pro Systems 950HP Holley carb,Camshaft Innovations custom solid roller ,Hooker 6208s,Toploader,4:11 Detroit locker...
11.82@ 120.85mph
The "stock" set-up would not work in my 65 289. Most (if not all) the wiring under the hood is original and the Pertronix unit simply was not getting the juice it needed to funtion propertly. What's worse, is that the guy who installed it for me didn't realize it! He was like "dude, you're car is near death" and when I drove it home, I knew something was definitely WRONG! I called Pertronix and they said to ensure proper voltage, which I did with a dedicated wire off the ignition switch. It's been running strong for 10 years now.
If you care to look at the installation instructions for the Pertronix I Ignitor on systems with a ballast resistor (whether or not it's a resistance wire or a physical resistor makes no difference), it shows the supply for the ignitor being taken off BEFORE the resistor or, a full battery-voltage location.
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