Should an engine have oil in it even if it's not going to be run for a long time?

[mjb1032]

I put the 'done' engine back into the car a few months ago and am curious of this....
I used assembly lube when I put it all together, on the crank, cam, lifters, pushrods and rocker arms. I also wiped oil on the cylinder walls.

This engine won't be started for a long time as I'm working on other things.
Body/dash/wiring/ carb needs rebuilding,etc..

Is there any reason to add oil now?
I know I could spin the oil pump through the removed distributor hole, and get oil up to the valvetrain; but is this necessary?

Would the oil breakdown in any way just sitting in the pan?

I assume it's best to leave the antifreeze out too.

Any thoughts?....
Marc
Happy New Years all
Edit: The car is in an unheated garage that's attached to the house.
The temperatures fluctuate somewhat, but it doesn't get too cold in there.

[1970_347]

With the assembly lube applied properly all over the rotating parts it is going to be just fine.
No worries. Just keep the valve covers on, the carb hole and exhaust ports covered and you shouldn't have any worries.

[88cougargt]

1970s right. Should be OK.

It's very cheap to buy a priming rod that sticks in your drill and turns your oil pump.

I always prime my engines if they have been sitting for a long time or the first start-up after a build. Also identifies any leaks before they are coating the engine bay with rust preventative.

[sanch052]

Originally Posted by 1970_347

With the assembly lube applied properly all over the rotating parts it is going to be just fine.
No worries. Just keep the valve covers on, the carb hole and exhaust ports covered and you shouldn't have any worries.

+1 on 1970_347 and I would place it a large plastic bag.

[mjb1032]

Thanks guys

[bartl]

+1 on making sure ALL the holes are plugged PLUS I'd put it in a plastic bag with some desiccant pouches or tubs.....

[Lee12609]

summit sells plastic engine bags that are pretty durable and cheap. its what i use.

oil in the pan or not doesnt matter, because its just sitting in the pan.

[JohnnyK]

Just cover the holes that things can/will fall into (Trust me on that one). Other than that, no reason to at all! Do you put everything else you own into a bucket of motor oil when it's sitting in your garage? It's just sitting in the oil pan and you'll want to change it later anyways (not necessary, but you will want to).

[ajb4227]

Originally Posted by mjb1032

I put the 'done' engine back into the car a few months ago and am curious of this....
I used assembly lube when I put it all together, on the crank, cam, lifters, pushrods and rocker arms. I also wiped oil on the cylinder walls.

This engine won't be started for a long time as I'm working on other things.
Body/dash/wiring/ carb needs rebuilding,etc..

Is there any reason to add oil now?
I know I could spin the oil pump through the removed distributor hole, and get oil up to the valvetrain; but is this necessary?

Would the oil breakdown in any way just sitting in the pan?

I assume it's best to leave the antifreeze out too.

Any thoughts?....
Marc
Happy New Years all
Edit: The car is in an unheated garage that's attached to the house.
The temperatures fluctuate somewhat, but it doesn't get too cold in there.

[Titus_RacerX]

Where can I get a "priming rod" for my 289? The car has been sitting for 10+ years and I'm sure it's pretty dry.

[Fast68]

Originally Posted by Titus_RacerX

Where can I get a "priming rod" for my 289? The car has been sitting for 10+ years and I'm sure it's pretty dry.

I don't know where to tell you to get a priming rod, however putting some oil in the cylinders with an eye dropper through the spark plug holes will protect from scoring the cylinder walls when you start it from sitting for so long. Probably a week in advance wouldn't be such a bad idea. A couple tablespoons in each cylinder. Expect whoever is in the direction of the wind to get asphyxiated when you first start it...
*fuel line could be loaded with crud along with gas tank as you probably know.

[Nitro Blue]

If you have an old distributor you can make one from that.

Or buy two of these and weld them together. This is from National parts depot.

6A618-3 Add To Wish List	DRIVESHAFT OIL PUMP STANDARD REPLACEMENT DRIVESHAFT, OIL PUMP, STANDARD REPLACEMENT Price: $9.05 EACH
	Year Model Fits Information 1969 - 1973 MUSTANG 351W 1978 - 1996 BRONCO 351W 1980 - 1996 F100-350 351W

[awhtx]

Originally Posted by Titus_RacerX

Where can I get a "priming rod" for my 289? The car has been sitting for 10+ years and I'm sure it's pretty dry.

Get a 1/4", 6 point, deep socket with 1/4" drive and a 12" long 1/4" extension. Chuck the female end of the extension in a drill, put the socket on the male end, remove the distributor and spin the oil pump drive shaft with your new "priming rod".

[88cougargt]

Originally Posted by awhtx

Get a 1/4", 6 point, deep socket with 1/4" drive and a 12" long 1/4" extension. Chuck the female end of the extension in a drill, put the socket on the male end, remove the distributor and spin the oil pump drive shaft with your new "priming rod".

you forgot one step
Use some tape to attach the socket to the extension!

Dropping the socket into the oil pan is one of those.... "that didn't just happen did it?" moments.