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Old 01-02-2013, 01:38 PM   #1 (permalink)
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Default Thought my troubles were over! Cranking with hesitation

I thought my electrical issues were done but now I'm wondering what the real problem is? My mechanic said he couldn't find anything wrong with grounding, etc. Got my car back and starts up great for the last couple days. Just today after a few times starting the car with no issues, the last crank I did had hesitation before it started. It would hesitate 3 quick times and then start. Since SUPPOSEDLY my electrical is working fine, should I be looking at the solenoid or starter? My battery is fully charged as well. New ignition switch.
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Old 01-02-2013, 01:41 PM   #2 (permalink)
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Define "hesitation."
You twist the key to "start" and what happens?
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Old 01-02-2013, 01:44 PM   #3 (permalink)
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explain the hesitation,...slow turn over then it starts? Is the battery new or old and fully charged,..easiest fix would be to look at a new battery, maybe its fully charged but won't hold the charge.
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Old 01-02-2013, 01:52 PM   #4 (permalink)
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Hard to type it out but I guess momentary pauses in between cranking Make better sense? When you turn the key, you'll hear it start to turn then stop, turn,stop, then the car turns on. The battery is somewhat new. Had it for about a year but I don't drive my car so often. It's fully charged.
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2004 Nissan Titan Crew Cab
1966 Ford Mustang Original 289
Edelbrock RPM Performer Heads; bored .30 over
Weiand Stealth Intake, Holley 600 CFM Carb.
Comp Cam 268H 9.5:1 Speed Pro Pistons
Patriot Tri-Y Headers w/ 2.5" H Pipe, Flowmaster 40S
620 1" drop in front, CSRP Front Disk Brakes.
Ford 8 3.40 trac-loc rear end


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Old 01-02-2013, 02:11 PM   #5 (permalink)
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Try a different battery. Sounds to me like it's weak. They can be fully charged, but still not work the way they are supposed to.
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Old 01-02-2013, 02:17 PM   #6 (permalink)
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I'll try that. I know my alternator is working since it's putting out the voltage it should be. My battery might still be under warranty from Autozone too. Thanks Frank!
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2004 Nissan Titan Crew Cab
1966 Ford Mustang Original 289
Edelbrock RPM Performer Heads; bored .30 over
Weiand Stealth Intake, Holley 600 CFM Carb.
Comp Cam 268H 9.5:1 Speed Pro Pistons
Patriot Tri-Y Headers w/ 2.5" H Pipe, Flowmaster 40S
620 1" drop in front, CSRP Front Disk Brakes.
Ford 8 3.40 trac-loc rear end


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Old 01-02-2013, 02:25 PM   #7 (permalink)
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Too much inital timing can also cause hard/slow cranking...
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Old 01-02-2013, 02:26 PM   #8 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Markh View Post
Too much inital timing can also cause hard/slow cranking...
Great point... what are you set at?
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Old 01-02-2013, 02:32 PM   #9 (permalink)
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Can't remember but I never had an issue starting it until I had the electrical issues back 2 months ago. I know if it was a timing issue my mechanic would've told me. But like I said, it started/crank fine for the last couple days and today after 3-4 times of starting up with no issues, it started the momentary cranking then starts up and idles fine.
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2004 Nissan Titan Crew Cab
1966 Ford Mustang Original 289
Edelbrock RPM Performer Heads; bored .30 over
Weiand Stealth Intake, Holley 600 CFM Carb.
Comp Cam 268H 9.5:1 Speed Pro Pistons
Patriot Tri-Y Headers w/ 2.5" H Pipe, Flowmaster 40S
620 1" drop in front, CSRP Front Disk Brakes.
Ford 8 3.40 trac-loc rear end


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Old 01-02-2013, 02:56 PM   #10 (permalink)
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Sure sounds like a battery issue. Sometimes they develop an internal
fault. You'll get 12.6 or better on a voltmeter but there's absolutely no
oomph in terms of current. I just had this issue with an Optima that
sat for about 6 years. It just wouldn't come back no matter how long
you charged or what the procedure of charging was. Definitely had
12.whatever volts though.....
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Old 01-02-2013, 03:06 PM   #11 (permalink)
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Damn that sucks. Well I'll hope autozone still has me in the computer for warranty since I don't have my receipt. I'll see about changing it out. I don't think it's a bad ground because none of my ground wire aren't hot. It's almost like a slow crank when it has the momentary pauses too.
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2004 Nissan Titan Crew Cab
1966 Ford Mustang Original 289
Edelbrock RPM Performer Heads; bored .30 over
Weiand Stealth Intake, Holley 600 CFM Carb.
Comp Cam 268H 9.5:1 Speed Pro Pistons
Patriot Tri-Y Headers w/ 2.5" H Pipe, Flowmaster 40S
620 1" drop in front, CSRP Front Disk Brakes.
Ford 8 3.40 trac-loc rear end


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Old 01-02-2013, 03:09 PM   #12 (permalink)
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It sounds like trying to start it after leaving the headlights on for a while... dying, or partially drained. If you were having electrical issues before you could have damaged one or more of the cells in the battery (which if I recall correctly could still read like a charged battery).
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Old 01-02-2013, 03:19 PM   #13 (permalink)
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Have your battery load tested to make sure its good. They can also check your starter at the same time.

If they are OK, could be solenoid contacts.
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Old 01-02-2013, 03:42 PM   #14 (permalink)
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I had my battery tested a few weeks ago during electrical issues and they said there were 12 volts. That be said with the electrical issues, possible chance I killed some cells then but still shows up as 12 volts? I changed my alternator harness to a new one because I found the harness kinked which caused bad grounding which led to my single wire alternator to fry. Yes I saw smoke coming out. Hahah. I knowi have a good solenoid but thinking maybe I have a cheap one from Oreilly. Might just have to go bu a motorcraft one.
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2004 Nissan Titan Crew Cab
1966 Ford Mustang Original 289
Edelbrock RPM Performer Heads; bored .30 over
Weiand Stealth Intake, Holley 600 CFM Carb.
Comp Cam 268H 9.5:1 Speed Pro Pistons
Patriot Tri-Y Headers w/ 2.5" H Pipe, Flowmaster 40S
620 1" drop in front, CSRP Front Disk Brakes.
Ford 8 3.40 trac-loc rear end


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Old 01-02-2013, 04:40 PM   #15 (permalink)
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I actually worked in the automotive battery industry for both ACDelco
and Douglas Battery in the mid-90's until early 2002.
Among other things, I did battery autopsy at the manufacturing level
to determine root cause of failure. I've seen all kinds of stuff including
batteries built backwards internally, batteries charged backwards, etc.
Nothing really surprises me about lead acid batteries.

You can't check the individual cells in most batteries anymore, but they
put out a particular charge when their specific gravity is a particular
number..... that's the simplest way of looking at it. If the specific gravity
is messed up, that cell is messed up and you get less oomph out of
the battery. If the lead grid in a cell(s) is messed up you get a similar
situation. Etc, etc.

It's very possible you have problems inside your battery. A load test
will pretty much give you a bottom line answer.
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