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Old 01-03-2013, 11:47 AM   #1 (permalink)
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Default Front Susp. Rebuild ?'s

I originally rebuilt the front suspension on my 65 back around 1986. I did the standard
kit - lower control arms, uca shafts, uca ball joints, tie rods, bushings.

I doubt I have 15K miles on it since then. However, I am planning on doing the arning drop and roller spring perch this winter. Most of the rubber seals really are not holding grease so I figured I would do a rebuild, but I don't want to replace good parts.

What is the best way to determine if the lca, uca, tie rods needs replacement?

Also, any recommendations on parts? I priced kits and individual moog parts - quite a difference. Is the moog worth it? There also seems to be some design (and price) differences on the uca shafts.
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Old 01-03-2013, 11:50 AM   #2 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by mustang289 View Post
I originally rebuilt the front suspension on my 65 back around 1986. I did the standard
kit - lower control arms, uca shafts, uca ball joints, tie rods, bushings.

I doubt I have 15K miles on it since then. However, I am planning on doing the arning drop and roller spring perch this winter. Most of the rubber seals really are not holding grease so I figured I would do a rebuild, but I don't want to replace good parts.

What is the best way to determine if the lca, uca, tie rods needs replacement?

Also, any recommendations on parts? I priced kits and individual moog parts - quite a difference. Is the moog worth it? There also seems to be some design (and price) differences on the uca shafts.
Are you close to Charlotte? If so, I would order all from NPD and go pick it up. Save a little and get quality parts.
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Old 01-03-2013, 11:53 AM   #3 (permalink)
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Jack car up grab tire at top and bottom and wiggle...if it moves the ball joints are shot.
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Old 01-03-2013, 11:56 AM   #4 (permalink)
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Go with moog or Mquay norris, skip all of the other stuff. The last time you did this the parts were better than 75% of what you get on line these days.
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Old 01-03-2013, 12:03 PM   #5 (permalink)
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Quote:
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Are you close to Charlotte? If so, I would order all from NPD and go pick it up. Save a little and get quality parts.
They know me by first name at NPD

I priced parts individually at NPD (the higher quality one's) and come out about $250 higher than a full kit at Mustangs Unlimited. I don't think my ball joints are shot, but I do have the 4-bolt ones that replaced the rivets in the UCA. One of the bolts is stripped so I am going to replace.
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Old 01-03-2013, 12:04 PM   #6 (permalink)
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I will also point out that regardless of miles driven....you rebuilt the suspension when it was physically younger (approx 20yrs old) than it is now (approx 26 yrs old).
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Old 01-03-2013, 12:06 PM   #7 (permalink)
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I just bought a complete Grab-a-trak kit from Mustangs Plus. Suspension with roller perches, 1" sway bar, lowering springs, poly bushings and steering rebuild kit. I am doing the arning drop too. Should be installed next week. I'll let you know how I like it.
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Old 01-03-2013, 12:58 PM   #8 (permalink)
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In a similar situation, replacing steering/suspension parts, but poly or rubber?

Forum reviews show 50/50 for/against it. A friend of mine with a 65 Vette, changed everything to poly, no issues or squeaks.......but old post on this forum show that people have squeaking problems with poly. Can this be because when installed, they did not lube the poly?

My Plan:
Tie rods & lower control arms- Moog
Upper control arm - Opentracker
Perches - Opentracker roller
Idler Arm - Opentracker roller

Undecided on the bushings (poly or rubber) for the sway bar, strut rods, coil spring insulators.
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Old 01-03-2013, 02:32 PM   #9 (permalink)
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On the strut rods the Moog is a denser durometer than the OEM stuff, it also uses washers that cup outward and works really well.
The aftermarket style poly strut bushings can work, but 99% of people install them wrong or overtighten and squish the thing and they bind causing the rod to work harden and snap off at the end. Its just not worth using them compared to the Moog bushing kit.

As far as the other bits, I used poly in my sway bar & spring socket with no squeaks, the UCA and the LCA could go either way for me, if budget is no concern try bearings.
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Old 01-03-2013, 06:20 PM   #10 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by mustang289 View Post
They know me by first name at NPD

I priced parts individually at NPD (the higher quality one's) and come out about $250 higher than a full kit at Mustangs Unlimited. I don't think my ball joints are shot, but I do have the 4-bolt ones that replaced the rivets in the UCA. One of the bolts is stripped so I am going to replace.
Email me your list and I'll provide you with manufacturers for each item. Then ask for manufacturers anywhere else you're considering.

Don't by the cheapest kit you can find, unless you just want to re-do again 5,000-10,000 miles later...

Rick
NPD
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Old 01-03-2013, 06:57 PM   #11 (permalink)
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You can also get replacement dust boots for joints that are otherwise good. If they have been regularly greased and the grease that comes out looks as good as the grease that's going in and there's no play you may not want to replace parts.

On the other hand, many of relatively inexpensive and if they were purchased with a lifetime guarantee, like most suspension parts have when you buy them from places like NAPA, AutoZone, etc., and the boots are split then just swap them out for new ones...nobody should give you any flak. That's the reason I save EACH and EVERY receipt for a warranted item.
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