Just be careful not to get any pieces of old hardened gasket into the engine while you are scraping..I would use some rags to cover inside the head until you are finished...I'm not sure on the six banger but the V-8 torques for the bolts are 3-5 ft/lbs..I have never used a torque wrench on valve cover bolts though.Just snug them down.You will feel the gasket compress and then the bolt will suddenly begin to get very tight..Once you feel that stop!
Fortunately all of the old gasket was still stuck to the cover when it came off. Thanks for the advice.
Just be careful not to get any pieces of old hardened gasket into the engine while you are scraping..I would use some rags to cover inside the head until you are finished...I'm not sure on the six banger but the V-8 torques for the bolts are 3-5 ft/lbs..I have never used a torque wrench on valve cover bolts though.Just snug them down.You will feel the gasket compress and then the bolt will suddenly begin to get very tight..Once you feel that stop!
What he said!
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1970 Fastback (to be finished outside as a Boss 302 clone)
393 Windsor AFR 205 heads with 11.5:1 compression
Tremec TKO 5 Speed
Link to my Hub Garage and blog about my car http://www.hubgarage.com/mygarage/maxum96
I have always used sealer on the valve cover side. Helps keep the gasket in place an reduces the places it cold leak.
+1 - Makes life a lot easier if you seal it to the valve cover. One less hand necessary during assembly...
Too many over torque bolts deforming the holes on on stamped covers e.g. oil pans, trans pans, timing covers, valve covers etc. as a first response to a leak or pre-emptive therapy. I always check the bolt holes on stamped components to see if they are deformed. Once deformed, you need silicone to seal them. Most don't even notice they are deformed. Just put a straight edge on the cover across the bolt holes and the story (if there is one) will unfold. I take a small hammer with a wood backing or body weight and gently tap them flat again. Then you can think about using a dry gasket or in my case, RTV only the valve cover side to make life easier.
Nice car...
M
Last edited by dobrostang; 01-06-2013 at 08:44 AM.
So if I was going to use sealant... Would I assemble the parts right away or let the cover sit overnight with the gasket sealed on it?
If you put sealer on both sides, I would assume you would need to replace the gasket every time you remove the valve cover. I would only use the sealer on the valve cover side and read the directions on the sealer. Some want it to skin over, some want it assembled immediately. I can't think of any reason to have it sit overnight.
Here it is almost finished. I just have to tighten the bolts another half turn in an hour. I decided to use the RTV silicone because the cover isn't in the best shape. Next time I pull the cover I will be replacing the cover. Cross my fingers and hope it doesn't leak.
Nothing like some fresh paint to perk up the engine bay! Looks great.
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68 J code sprint, 408W with vic jr top end, Pro Systems 950HP Holley carb,Camshaft Innovations custom solid roller ,Hooker 6208s,Toploader,4:11 Detroit locker...
11.82@ 120.85mph
I decided to use the RTV silicone because the cover isn't in the best shape. Next time I pull the cover I will be replacing the cover. Cross my fingers and hope it doesn't leak.
After you let it set up and test it let us know if it sealed or not. Looks good BTW.
I will let it sit for a few days and then start it up. I wish I would have pressure washed the engine first so that I could see if it's leaking easier. Thanks for the comments. Still lots to do I'm just knocking off the easy stuff first.
I told you I would let you know what came of the valve cover project. After letting the car sit for longer than I hoped I finally got to start it up today. I haven't driven it since the new gasket was installed but I let it warm up real good and I didn't see any leaks.
So now my air cleaner housing looks hideous and I will have to paint it next. Thanks for all the advice!
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i'm always looking for some good car porn...lol
1968 Coupe, 351W swap. Edelbrock Performer RPM top end kit w/ Chuck Nuytten 4150 Custom built, Headman full length headers w/ full stainless steel Flowmaster system, MSD Billet ignition, MSD Blaster coil w/ CDI box & rev limiter, Holley elec fuel system, PA C4 tranny w/B&M 2800 stall & Ford Racing 3.55 RAR, NOS, MT ET Streets, Denny's Alum Drive Shaft
