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Old 01-06-2013, 08:53 AM   #1 (permalink)
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Default Quick battery recommendation

I posted a thread about my starter having intermittent cranking but will start. Few people said it sounds like the battery has a dead cell. Well, I had it running a couple times with no issues on Thursday. Yesterday I tried to start it and it slowly cranked until it didn't crank at all. That being said, I know I have a possible dead cell since my negative cable was off since 2 days ago. So I'm looking for opinions on a battery if my warranty is expired. I know optima is one of the popular ones. Any other? I'm using a duralast right now.
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Old 01-06-2013, 09:03 AM   #2 (permalink)
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Use a hygrometer to see if you in fact have a dead cell before spending money.

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Old 01-06-2013, 10:28 AM   #3 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by sdmustangrider View Post
I posted a thread about my starter having intermittent cranking but will start. Few people said it sounds like the battery has a dead cell. Well, I had it running a couple times with no issues on Thursday. Yesterday I tried to start it and it slowly cranked until it didn't crank at all. That being said, I know I have a possible dead cell since my negative cable was off since 2 days ago. So I'm looking for opinions on a battery if my warranty is expired. I know optima is one of the popular ones. Any other? I'm using a duralast right now.


I buy all my batteries from Advance Auto Parts. They have good ones with decent warranties for around $90.00 and live in Texas. Colder than CA ... in the 20' here a few times already this year. 15 once in awhile. Brrr

Example:

(Buy Economy Battery, Group Size 26R, 540 CCA 26R-2 at Advance Auto Parts (540 CA) ... vs. Buy Optima Batteries YellowTop Dual-Purpose Battery, Group 75/25, 620 CCA D35 at Advance Auto Parts . The key to long life is to keep them on a trickle charger all the time.
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Old 01-06-2013, 10:39 AM   #4 (permalink)
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Use a hygrometer to see if you in fact have a dead cell before spending money.

Where do you get it and is that the right term? I looked it up and shows its a humidity instrument.
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Weiand Stealth Intake, Holley 600 CFM Carb.
Comp Cam 268H 9.5:1 Speed Pro Pistons
Patriot Tri-Y Headers w/ 2.5" H Pipe, Flowmaster 40S
620 1" drop in front, CSRP Front Disk Brakes.
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Old 01-06-2013, 10:41 AM   #5 (permalink)
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I buy all my batteries from Advance Auto Parts. They have good ones with decent warranties for around $90.00 and live in Texas. Colder than CA ... in the 20' here a few times already this year. 15 once in awhile. Brrr

Example:

(Buy Economy Battery, Group Size 26R, 540 CCA 26R-2 at Advance Auto Parts (540 CA) ... vs. Buy Optima Batteries YellowTop Dual-Purpose Battery, Group 75/25, 620 CCA D35 at Advance Auto Parts . The key to long life is to keep them on a trickle charger all the time.
That's why I didn't buy the optima at first because duralast are good batteries. Didn't feel like spending $200+ for a battery.
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2004 Nissan Titan Crew Cab
1966 Ford Mustang Original 289
Edelbrock RPM Performer Heads; bored .30 over
Weiand Stealth Intake, Holley 600 CFM Carb.
Comp Cam 268H 9.5:1 Speed Pro Pistons
Patriot Tri-Y Headers w/ 2.5" H Pipe, Flowmaster 40S
620 1" drop in front, CSRP Front Disk Brakes.
Ford 8 3.40 trac-loc rear end


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Old 01-06-2013, 11:27 AM   #6 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by sdmustangrider View Post
I posted a thread about my starter having intermittent cranking but will start. Few people said it sounds like the battery has a dead cell. Well, I had it running a couple times with no issues on Thursday. Yesterday I tried to start it and it slowly cranked until it didn't crank at all. That being said, I know I have a possible dead cell since my negative cable was off since 2 days ago. So I'm looking for opinions on a battery if my warranty is expired. I know optima is one of the popular ones. Any other? I'm using a duralast right now.
Some will likely laugh at me but, I have had great luck with Kirkland (COSTCO) battereis in the past. Good warrany and well under $100. I am running a pair in the F350 diesel going on 3yr now with no issues. Just my expereinces.
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Old 01-06-2013, 11:30 AM   #7 (permalink)
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Where do you get it and is that the right term? I looked it up and shows its a humidity instrument.
Here ya go.........Battery Hydrometer Tester Electrolyte State of Charge Car Truck Motorcycle New | eBay
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Old 01-06-2013, 12:40 PM   #8 (permalink)
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If the battery is at or near the warranty end, I would just assume it time to replace the battery. The battery MFGs have it designed to fail right around the warranty. I have had excellent results from Sears Diehard Gold and Duralast Gold from Auto Zone.
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Old 01-06-2013, 01:20 PM   #9 (permalink)
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I got duralast gold in my car and truck and are great. Also I've known people with Kirkland batteries and they've lasted a long time too. Well, had my battery tested at autozone for everything and the guy said its fine. It was only 76% charged so maybe that's why it was cranking I guess.
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2004 Nissan Titan Crew Cab
1966 Ford Mustang Original 289
Edelbrock RPM Performer Heads; bored .30 over
Weiand Stealth Intake, Holley 600 CFM Carb.
Comp Cam 268H 9.5:1 Speed Pro Pistons
Patriot Tri-Y Headers w/ 2.5" H Pipe, Flowmaster 40S
620 1" drop in front, CSRP Front Disk Brakes.
Ford 8 3.40 trac-loc rear end


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Old 01-06-2013, 01:45 PM   #10 (permalink)
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I got duralast gold in my car and truck and are great. Also I've known people with Kirkland batteries and they've lasted a long time too. Well, had my battery tested at autozone for everything and the guy said its fine. It was only 76% charged so maybe that's why it was cranking I guess.
I'd put it on a trickle charger for a couple of days and see how it is. If it still drains down then you may have a small draw on the system somewhere.
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Old 01-06-2013, 01:51 PM   #11 (permalink)
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It's weird though that my battery would drain when I had the negative cable disconnected from the battery. I know it doesn't get a good charge unless I'm driving the car, but maybe it didn't get a proper charge when I always started it when it was parked. I'm getting it charged right now so I'll have hooked up and just play it day by day and see what happens.
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2004 Nissan Titan Crew Cab
1966 Ford Mustang Original 289
Edelbrock RPM Performer Heads; bored .30 over
Weiand Stealth Intake, Holley 600 CFM Carb.
Comp Cam 268H 9.5:1 Speed Pro Pistons
Patriot Tri-Y Headers w/ 2.5" H Pipe, Flowmaster 40S
620 1" drop in front, CSRP Front Disk Brakes.
Ford 8 3.40 trac-loc rear end


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Old 01-06-2013, 02:19 PM   #12 (permalink)
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Originally Posted by sdmustangrider View Post
Where do you get it and is that the right term? I looked it up and shows its a humidity instrument.
Any auto parts store, even Wal-Mart and K-Mart should have them.
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Old 01-06-2013, 02:46 PM   #13 (permalink)
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Some will likely laugh at me but, I have had great luck with Kirkland (COSTCO) battereis in the past. Good warrany and well under $100. I am running a pair in the F350 diesel going on 3yr now with no issues. Just my expereinces.
I agree Costco price and warranty are great. They also sell Optima Batteries for a good price.
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Old 01-06-2013, 03:34 PM   #14 (permalink)
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Where do you get it and is that the right term? I looked it up and shows its a humidity instrument.
It's called a battery hyDROMeter. It will measure the specific gravity of the electrolyte solution in each cell. As the battery discharges, the specific gravity gets closer and closer to that of plain water (1.000). The specific gravity in all cells should be 1.265 in a fully charged battery at 70*F. Buy one with a bulb and specific gravity scale. The cheap ones are just that.
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Old 01-06-2013, 03:39 PM   #15 (permalink)
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Most of the conventional lead/acid batteries around are made by Johnson Controls, East Penn (Deka) and Exide. Then you have your AGM makers like Optima.
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