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Old 01-06-2013, 12:19 PM   #1 (permalink)
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Default Engine noise continues...

I posted several weeks ago about a ticking noise coming from what sounded like my lifters. I thought I had fixed the problem. I have since replaced the lifters and the noise is still there. However, the noise used to be there both in park and in drive. Now the noise goes away when the car is idling in gear. Once I get above 1200 rpm or so it clicks again. Below is a link to a video of it. Hopefully it works. For those who didn't see the post a few weeks ago, here is a little background...

It's a '68 302 I installed several years back. It has less than 10k on the rebuilt 302. It has a 2bbl carb and '72 heads. The oil pump seized a few weeks back and I drove it about a mile before I realized what was going on. I replaced the pump, primed it, and started it back up. That's when the ticking noise started. I checked for collapsed lifters and found one. I went ahead and replaced all of the lifters, but left the cam in since it had such low mileage.

The noise appears to be coming from the passenger side lifters, but even using the screwdriver to ear method it's hard to tell. I rechecked the rockers to see if another lifter was collapsed, but they were all good. I even loosened a rocker to compare the clacking of a loose rocker to the noise I have. The noise sounds deeper than a clacking rocker or lifter.

I tried removing the spark plug wires one by one to see if the noise went away. It didn't. The oil pressure reads a tad low, but all I have is the OEM gauge. I can't afford a decent gauge right now. I'm running 10W-40.

I'm thinking it may have soemthing to do with the oil pressure being a tad low, but it doesn't seem to be low enough to cause any noise. When the valve covers were off the oil was flowing better than ever. I thought about replacing the bottom main bearings and getting a high volume pump to see if it helps the pressure as a temp fix. But like I said, the oil was flowing so well on the heads I don't know if that would make a difference.

Also, I've only driven it around the block since replacing the lifters. Nothing above 3500rpm. I've heard of some guys getting rid of a little noise after putting a few miles on new lifters, but I didn't want to take a chance on driving it too far without asking.

Let me know if the link doesn't work.

clicking 1 - YouTube

100%

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Old 01-06-2013, 12:35 PM   #2 (permalink)
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Video works and it is clacking pretty loud. To avoid chasing noise, are you sure the noise is not an exhaust leak? When the cylinder is at TDC are the pushrods all tight?
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Old 01-06-2013, 12:39 PM   #3 (permalink)
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Sound like lifter noise to me. Exhaust leak sounds more "external" (I know as I have exhaust leaks on TWO of my cars!) - IMO, this sounds like it's from inside the block, and definitely the passenger side.
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Old 01-06-2013, 12:41 PM   #4 (permalink)
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Does it keep making the clicking warm or cold?

Engine rpm does not make a difference in pitch?

Does the speed ( frequency increase ) of the clicking increase with engine rpm?
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Old 01-06-2013, 01:00 PM   #5 (permalink)
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There is an exhaust leak on the passenger side due to no flange gasket, but that's not the noise. The engine noise covers up the leak noise. And the pushrods are all tight when cylinders are at TDC.

I didn't hear the noise when I started it this morning. It was just above freezing outside, so the oil was thick. Once it warmed up I could hear the noise. And the frequency of the noise is consistent with engine speed. When I increase the rpms the noise increases as well.

Earlier I ran the motor with the valve covers off and loosened all of the non-adjustable rocker bolts so I could re-torque them. While adjusting them I could get the noise to go away temporarily, but once the idle adjusted the noise returned.
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Old 01-06-2013, 04:19 PM   #6 (permalink)
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I think you've probably got another bad lifter. Instead of the screwdriver in the ear method, try a 2' section of heater hose. I use an old saucepan, enough oil to submerge the feed hole, and a drill bit inserted upside-down in my drill press to check them. Pop the lifter in the saucepan and pull the handle on the drill press to "pump up" the lifter, then apply a steady down pressure to see how fast the oil leaks out. If you have one that simply goes "squirt", either replace it or disassemble it to see if some junk if stuck in the check ball.
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Old 01-09-2013, 03:26 PM   #7 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by bartl View Post
I think you've probably got another bad lifter. Instead of the screwdriver in the ear method, try a 2' section of heater hose. I use an old saucepan, enough oil to submerge the feed hole, and a drill bit inserted upside-down in my drill press to check them. Pop the lifter in the saucepan and pull the handle on the drill press to "pump up" the lifter, then apply a steady down pressure to see how fast the oil leaks out. If you have one that simply goes "squirt", either replace it or disassemble it to see if some junk if stuck in the check ball.
I tried your method and there were none that seemed to just squirt out. I did notice that when I disassembled all the lifters one was fairly stubborn to get apart. The rest came apart with ease. Is it possible to have a lifter that is not collapsed to still be bad?
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Old 01-10-2013, 06:27 AM   #8 (permalink)
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if after u replace all lifters dont forget-wrist pin noise and piston skirt noise all sound simular to lifter noise at the beginning. wes
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Old 01-10-2013, 09:21 PM   #9 (permalink)
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I agree with the last post..... I had a similar issue with a 289 that scattered on me BIG! If you have a cracked piston skirt it will make that noise.... I would pull the pan and inspect the bottom...Look for a crack or missing skirt in the pan...
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Old 01-10-2013, 09:32 PM   #10 (permalink)
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If it has full floating pistons one of the keepers may have failed causing a piston to rock. I have seen 2 engines with this symptom and the pin had started eating its way through the cylinder wall You should be able to see a wear pattern forming in the cylinder wall if cranking the engine over by hand and watching the bore.
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Old 01-10-2013, 09:47 PM   #11 (permalink)
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Few questions and things to take a look at.
1) check the height of all of the rocker arm studs. Make sure one has not started to pull out of the head. Use a straight edge across the top. .005 too tall and you can get a ticking. This is all assuming you still have non adjustable rocker arms.
2) look at the tops of the valves to see if one is worn down too far giving too much clearance.
3) with each individual piston turned to TDC, and the valves fully closed, lift up and down on the push rod feeling for play. There should be zero play.
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