I attached the front to the bumper bracket mount holes on the outsides of the front frame rails. At the rear, I attached to the rear bumper mounting holes in the taillight panel. Another common rear attachment point is to use the leaf spring holes or the exhaust hanger holes in the rear frame rail. My rotating points were about 6" below the fuel filler and just slightly above the radiator crossmember and that seemed to hit the center of gravity pretty good.
My pivot point was probably around 42-48" from the ground, which put the doors about a foot off the ground when I rotated the body 90 degrees. To make sure you won't hit the body against the ground, measure the body at its widest point, divide by 2, and add at least a foot to that and that's a good place to start for a pivot point - keep in mind that this point needs to be measured above any rotisserie structure (i.e. square tubing) that connects the front to the rear.
My rotisserie contraption was the only one I have seen that was made from pressure treated lumber instead of steel. It was fairly inexpensive and worked great. In an ideal world, I would have had one made from steel with long ram hydraulic jacks front & rear to allow the height to be changed. A powered rotating assembly would be nice, but isn't necessary if your rotating axis goes through the body's center of gravity. I would have also liked to have the ability to lock the body at various points in the rotation, but I managed just fine without. I used ratchet straps or slid a piece of wood under the body against the bottom of the frame rails to keep the body from turning.
'66 Emberglo Coupe
5.0 EFI conversion
TwEECer EFI tuning
Rod & Custom Motorsports IFS
TCP subframe connectors
Vintage Air Heat & AC
'99 Black Cobra - Daily driver
Last edited by Greg'66 5.0; 01-08-2013 at 12:04 PM.