My brand new (to me) vent windows I purchased off a member here... If it's not one thing, it's another!
I stripped the front upper bolt hole. So not an adjustment one, but a hold down one.
What would you guys do? Leave as is (which I contemplated, since it's position on the vent frame, at the very front upper corner, really can't do much at all to hold it from pivoting!) or drill and tap to 3/8 and just use a regular bolt and washer?
And on a side note, since these windows are impossible to adjust, has anyone noticed that even with the bolts reefed down, the vent window flexes as the window moves up to it's very top most position? Seems to be the only way I can get the entire window to seal!
The advantage is 5/16 is the correct size screw. You won't have open up any other holes or redesign anything. Helicoil will be more expensive but doing the right thing usually is.
The advantage is 5/16 is the correct size screw. You won't have open up any other holes or redesign anything. Helicoil will be more expensive but doing the right thing usually is.
? Not sure if you have a 67, but there would be nothing to open up.. Just drill, tap. Helicoil would be more redesign.
Let me rephrase.. Is there anything special about that 5/16 screw with it's square-ish washer attached? Pivoting it in my hand, I can't see how it would function any differently than a regular bolt and washer.
No, he's posting something that isn't true, and some newbie might see it and think there was no way to adjust the vent windows when in fact they can be adjusted like crazy. The internet is 'forever', and some poor guy not even born yet might hit 'search' someday and be misinformed. I'm the nicest guy you could meet but I'm kinda allergic to stuff that's 100% not true.
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Amateur restorer. (Well, once in a while I have been paid for it)
? Not sure if you have a 67, but there would be nothing to open up.. Just drill, tap. Helicoil would be more redesign.
Let me rephrase.. Is there anything special about that 5/16 screw with it's square-ish washer attached? Pivoting it in my hand, I can't see how it would function any differently than a regular bolt and washer.
Well, it has to cover an oversize square hole, and be really strong so the edges take the pressure instead of the center, but of course it's doable if you can't repair or replace the nut in question.
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Amateur restorer. (Well, once in a while I have been paid for it)
1967 fiberglass fastback, all aluminum 427 supercharged and racing coilovers all around. "Still waiting to find a sequential manual transmission under 20k "
He was exaggerating. But if you can find a thread where someone says "Adjusted windows in a 67 fastback today. Easiest job in the world!", I'd love to see how they did it.
Original question was "what would you guys do?" I try to do whatever would be considered a correct repair. 22gt is correct about the pressure points on the special washers used. The helicoil repair will result in stronger threads than the threads in the original casting. It also irritates me when I have to go back to the toolbox because someone installed an incorrect size bolt.
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Mild 302
T-5
Global West arms
TCP Strut Rods
Wilwood Ft. Discs
235/45/17 ft
275/40/17 rear
Always a work in progress
The helicoil repair will result in stronger threads than the threads in the original casting. It also irritates me when I have to go back to the toolbox because someone installed an incorrect size bolt.
Well I'm 100% not concerned about changing sockets.. But I am concerned about the strength of the original casting now. I've never used a helicoil before. I assume they have an OD thread that threads into the original casting? Which then takes the force of the inner diameter thread. So really, it would be the same strength (except for the slightly oversized OD) in the casting.
I will phone my mechanic today and see if he has a helicoil kit he can spot me.
Went ahead and bought an (off-brand) helicoil kit.
Having never used one though, I'm still mildly confused about how an insert that threads in (with a slightly slightly larger thread) is any stronger than the original bolt that threads in.
Unless there is a lot of outwords pressure on the surrounding metal like an anchor, but from the videos I watched, it doesn't look that way?
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