Changing camshaft - help needed

[B_M]

Hi guys, you have a great forum here

I want to rebuild my engine (351C 2v V8 code H - coupe '72) and I need a quick advice
I want to purchase "engine rebuild kit" (gasket set, bearings piston, piston rings, pump etc) from Titan-engines and I have to choose a camshaft
I don't want a stock one, I need something sharper because I already ported & polish heads plus change few parts( form summit racing) :

EDL-1400 Carburetor, Performer, 600 cfm, 4-Barrel, Square Bore, Electric Choke, Single Inlet,

EDL-7564 Intake Manifold, Performer RPM Air Gap, Dual Plane, Aluminum, Natural, Square Bore, Ford, 351C, 2V/

HED-88320 Headers, Street, Full-Length, Steel, Painted, Ford/Mercury, 351C, 2V, Pair

So I was given an option to get this cam:

Stage 1 Type Hyd. .050'' Dur. Int. 204
.050'' Dur. Exh. 214 Cam Lift Int.'' .280 Cam Lift Exh.'' .295
Valve Lift Int.'' .484 Valve Lift Exh.'' .510 C/L Int 107
C/L Exh 117 Lash Int.'' Hyd. Lash Exh.'' Hyd.

I have found my stock camshafts specs here in this forum:
351c stock cam specs?

Centerline , ATDC.... 109
Duation( at .050).... 192
Lobe lift(in)........ .247
Rocker arm Ration.... 1.73

Exhaust
Centerline, BTDC..... 111
Duration(.050) ...... 198
Max lobe lift........ 250
Rocker arm.......... 1.73

Calculated cam specs..
Lobe seperation angle..110
Intake lift ...........427
Exhaust................433

So what you think about it?

[22GT]

It would help to know what engine you have. While you're at it, have a look at these Ford cam specs-

[B_M]

My mistake :/
I have a 351C 2v V8 code H ('72 mustang coupe)
VIN – 2F01H126435

[bartl]

JMHO, I would select your items individually, from quality suppliers, versus buying a "one-size-fits-all" kit. By selecting the parts one at a time, YOU get to control the quality AND the specs of the parts so they all work together to create an engine that runs well, and not one that's "run-of-the-mill".

Before you ask the "what should I run for a camshaft" question, we need to know what you will be running for pistons, your valve sizes and cylinder head chamber volume, exhaust manifolds, transmission type, rear axle ratio and how you'll be driving the majority of the time. What I'd be worried about would be ending up with some cheap cast pistons and a not-quite-favorable compression ratio, and "contractor-grade" bearings, gaskets, seals, etc.

Next question is "have you talked to your machinist/engine builder" and are they familiar with the 351C? There are some generally accepted "rules" to follow regarding reliability that require some attention to detail during the parts selection and assembly process.

So, with a little more information, someone here, or even one of the better cam grinders, should be able to help you select the best bumpstick.

[Klutch]

You mentioned you had the 2V heads ported and polished. Did you also have them milled and the block decked to increase compression? If you didin't, you're leaving a lot of power on the table. Unless your 2V heads are Australian, they have open combustion chambers which result in low compression.

I would recommend milling your heads and decking the block to achieve a 10:1 SCR. You can then select a cam designed to run well with that compression ratio. Of course, there are many other factors like your objectives for the engine, your transmission, your rear gear and how much vacuum you require.

Take a look at the Voodoo cams from Lunati. They offer a lot of grinds for the Cleveland and I hear those work pretty well with the 2V ports.

And, just to be sure, you're not running the original, two-piece valves, right? I can't imagine your machinist would not have replaced those. But just in case, do NOT run the two piece valves. They are notorious for separating and creating disaster.

[22GT]

Originally Posted by Klutch

You mentioned you had the 2V heads ported and polished. Did you also have them milled and the block decked to increase compression? If you didin't, you're leaving a lot of power on the table. Unless your 2V heads are Australian, they have open combustion chambers which result in low compression.

Maybe. What's the casting code on them? Did you have larger valves installed?

[Klutch]

Originally Posted by 22GT

Maybe. What's the casting code on them? Did you have larger valves installed?

Are you saying there were domestic, 2V Cleveland heads with closed combustion chambers? If so, I'm not doubting you. I've just never heard of such heads.

The only closed chambered 2V Cleveland heads I've ever heard of are the Australian 302 Cleveland examples.

[bartl]

Originally Posted by klutch

are you saying there were domestic, 2v cleveland heads with closed combustion chambers? If so, i'm not doubting you. I've just never heard of such heads.

The only closed chambered 2v cleveland heads i've ever heard of are the australian 302 cleveland examples.

d1ae-aa
d1ae-cb

[B_M]

@Klutch
As far as I know I don't have any Australian heads

I have milled my heads already (I had a problem with head gasket and when I change them also milled heads) that was a few months ago and after that the engine didn't run much

I didn't change valves but they were polished and lapped, didn't know it was so important to change them

I have a standard 3 speed transmission didn't change anything, need more time to get more details

I just want to know whats the different between stock cam and the one I want to buy and how that change will affect my engine

thanks a lot for your help

[Klutch]

Originally Posted by bartl

d1ae-aa
d1ae-cb

Both of those casting numbers refer to 2V, open chambered heads. So, I'm not sure what you're saying here.

[Klutch]

Originally Posted by B_M

@Klutch
As far as I know I don't have any Australian heads

I have milled my heads already (I had a problem with head gasket and when I change them also milled heads) that was a few months ago and after that the engine didn't run much

I didn't change valves but they were polished and lapped, didn't know it was so important to change them

I have a standard 3 speed transmission didn't change anything, need more time to get more details

I just want to know whats the different between stock cam and the one I want to buy and how that change will affect my engine

thanks a lot for your help

I know your heads aren't the Aussie variety. I was just saying the Aussie Cleveland heads are the only examples I know with 2V ports and closed combustion chambers.

I don't know enough about cams to tell you what that particular lift and duration will give you. But I think you're approaching this in reverse. Don't pick a cam and try to determine what it will do for you. Rather, I would suggest you first figure out what you want your cam to do, then select a cam that does it.

The factory, 2V cam is pretty mild. Any performance cam will be a big improvement.

[bartl]

Originally Posted by Klutch

Both of those casting numbers refer to 2V, open chambered heads. So, I'm not sure what you're saying here.

According to my info those are both 2V heads with 64cc chambers and 2.04/1.65 valves vs. the open chambered 76cc heads.

[Klutch]

Originally Posted by bartl

According to my info those are both 2V heads with 64cc chambers and 2.04/1.65 valves vs. the open chambered 76cc heads.

I looked at multiple listings online (admittedly not the ultimate authority) and they all show both casting numbers as 2V, open chambered Cleveland heads.

Again, I'm pretty sure all 2V domestic Cleveland heads were open chambered. I think the 4V heads were closed chambered in 70 and 71, then went to open chambered thereafter.

[vozaday]

I have a 71 351c 2v engine and I went with the comp cam 270hr with roller rockers and am very happy with the results. I went with long headers and performer intake with a 670 street avenger carb. I think the carb is a little too small though. I would have went with the 280 but I have a FMX tranny and they recommended a 4 speed and higher stall torque converter with the 280.

Great torque and still lots of high end power, engine is capable of hitting 7000rpm, but I only took it there once to see if it could be done. Set my redline to 5800.