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Old 01-14-2013, 11:11 PM   #31 (permalink)
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It is a great feeling to have the car painted. It's not so good of a feeling when you go out the next day and start critiquing your work. I'm not worried about the few little runs in the clear coat - those should be easy enough to fix. Luckily, the only spots that I found that I probably need to sand and re-shoot with base coat are on the headlight buckets. I can redo those without too much trouble since they are small detachable parts. I guess I really have to decide if it is bothering me enough to repaint. I have enough base coat left to do it.

I noticed a slight tiger stripe on the trunk lid and hood. I'll have to get it out in the sun to see how noticeable it is. I really don't want to reshoot those panels. I would have to go get another quart of base coat if I wanted to redo them. I also found an area in the passenger door jamb where the masking tape came loose and got stuck to the clear coat. I know the base coat is fine since I shot it several weeks ago. I should be able to fix it with a little sanding and maybe another shot of clear.

The clear coat is going to need some cutting and buffing. Overall it looks decent, but I've got some areas on the passenger side where the clear coat has a bit of a texture to it. At least you don't have to worry about color match with clear coat. Since it's a little cool up here, I'll probably let the clear sit for another two days or so before I start hitting it with sandpaper.

As much as I wanted it to be perfect, I didn't have any expectations that it would come anywhere close to a high dollar show quality paint job. If you add up all the body tools, primers, paint, and materials to build the spray booth, I probably don't have more than $3000 in the whole thing.
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'66 Emberglo Coupe - Restoration COMPLETE!
Modifications:
5.0 EFI conversion
TwEECer EFI tuning
T56 6-speed
Rod & Custom Motorsports IFS
TCP subframe connectors
Vintage Air Heat & AC

'99 Black Cobra - Daily driver
http://i887.photobucket.com/albums/a...psdd2caa40.jpg

Last edited by Greg'66 5.0; 01-14-2013 at 11:15 PM.
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Old 01-15-2013, 12:34 AM   #32 (permalink)
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[QUOTE=Greg'66 5.0;4355273]I've got orders to report to USS Mississippi (that's one of those long black things that purposely sinks) in May./QUOTE]


That would explain the squid smell evertime I read one of your posts
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Old 01-15-2013, 09:08 AM   #33 (permalink)
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I love seeing other garage painters putting out good work. Very nice job and it's not the end of the world if you have to re-shoot the trunk or other panels.

I don't think I've ever seen a wooden rotisserie before. That's wild!
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Old 01-15-2013, 12:11 PM   #34 (permalink)
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Yea that wooden rotisserie is nice!! Good Work and nice looking paint job
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Old 01-15-2013, 01:02 PM   #35 (permalink)
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Nice work & BTW .... LOVE those rims.....what size are they and what rubber are you going to use?
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Old 01-15-2013, 06:25 PM   #36 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ToneMT View Post
Nice work & BTW .... LOVE those rims.....what size are they and what rubber are you going to use?
The rim is a 17"x8" with a 4.5" backspace. I plan on running a 245/45-17 on the rear. I only have 2 wheels right now since I don't know if I will need to go narrower on the front. I am pretty confident that a 245/45-17 will fit in the rear with no problem, so once I get the tires mounted I'll just stick one of the rims on the front to check fit. If everything clears, I'll use the same size on the front. If they rub, I'll go to a 7" wide wheel in the front (if it will fit) with a slightly narrower tire. My '99 Cobra has a 245/45-17 tire, so I plan on just taking one of the wheels off the Cobra and test fitting for tire clearance on the '66. The '99 wheel has a different offset, so I'll have to take that into account when I do the test fit.

I have looked through the dodgestang list of various wheels and tires and I think I won't have any trouble. The only variable is the front suspension that I have - I'm not sure how different the Rod & Custom IFS is when compared to stock for wheel & tire fitment.

Here's a link to the wheel:
Rocket Racing Wheels | Rocket Booster Hyper Shot | Free Shipping From Selected Rocket Dealers!
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'66 Emberglo Coupe - Restoration COMPLETE!
Modifications:
5.0 EFI conversion
TwEECer EFI tuning
T56 6-speed
Rod & Custom Motorsports IFS
TCP subframe connectors
Vintage Air Heat & AC

'99 Black Cobra - Daily driver
http://i887.photobucket.com/albums/a...psdd2caa40.jpg

Last edited by Greg'66 5.0; 01-15-2013 at 06:27 PM.
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Old 01-15-2013, 07:20 PM   #37 (permalink)
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Greg...Ironic I just retired from the Navy as a submariner.
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Old 01-15-2013, 08:20 PM   #38 (permalink)
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Man don't sweat it if the panels have a little texture as long as there is enough clear to wet sand it an buff it that thing will be slick. As far as a run goes I just panted mine this weekend too and i fixed a few runs in it tonight. Using a razor blade if you haven't ever done it its easy and will remove the run quickly. you don't cut it off you kinda scrape it off holding the blade 90 degrees to the panel like squeegee. Working the small area of the run this way you are only removing the high spot of the run then when it almost flat switch to wet sanding work up to 2000 grit then buff. If you know this already forgive me just trying to help. Im by far not a know it all im just like you painting in my garage. Im not that good at painting so ive got pretty good at fixing the screw ups i do lol. BTW car looks great man congrats on doing it yourself it means more even though you will know all the bad spots .Heres mine 66 vert resto mod
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Old 01-15-2013, 10:25 PM   #39 (permalink)
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17"x8" with a 4.5" backspace and 245/45-17 is what I have, and with the blue 620# 1" drop springs it was rubbing on the front until I rolled the fender lip. Since you just painted, it's probably too late to roll the lip unless you have already done it. If you are not running the 1" drop springs, you might be okay. Even if you are, I don't think you would have to step all the way down to a 17x7 rim, just get a slightly narrower tire with a slightly lower profile. The rub was very light, and only when turning.
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Old 01-15-2013, 10:33 PM   #40 (permalink)
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Nice job. I put a garage paint job on my 68 fastback over 20 years ago and it is time for some major work on it again. Thanks for your posts they are an inspiration to get me up and out in the garage. I had been looking at your wooden rotisserie on another thread and keeping it in mind if I decide I need one for my inspiration. Keep the pictures coming. I like the color and interior you are going with.
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Old 01-15-2013, 10:58 PM   #41 (permalink)
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I'm not too worried about the texture in the clear - that's easy enough to fix with a sanding block. I picked up some 1000, 1500, & 2000 grit sandpaper today. I also have some cutting compound, polishing compound, and the appropriate foam pads for my variable speed rotary buffer. This weekend is a 3 day weekend for me, so I'm hoping to accomplish the cutting & buffing this weekend. My garage has been ventilating for 2 days and the paint smell is mostly gone.

Thanks for the tip on using a razor blade to shave down the runs - there is one small run where that will probably be the easiest way to fix it.

I ordered my seat upholstery today. I am going with the TMI Sport Seat conversion with Emberglo/Parchment pony seats. This color combination, while original, is not readily available from the major vendors. The sport seat headrests are also shown with a limited color selection. I tried getting a quote through Mustangs Unlimited for a price, but it's been a week now and they haven't gotten back to me. I called TMI today and ordered everything direct from them. Their website shows the Emberglo/Parchment combo, but they don't show Emberglo as an option for the sport headrests. When I talked to them today, they said they can make the headrests from any color material that they have, even if it's not listed on the website. The invoice they sent to me shows the headrests to be a non-returnable special order item. It looks like they have a pretty quick turnaround time - expected shipping date is next Tuesday. There was not any extra charge for the special order - the price I paid was the same as listed on the website. Just figured I would throw this out there in case anyone was wondering about custom orders. The lady who took my order at TMI was very pleasant. One funny thing I noticed was that the invoice listed "emberglo" as "embargo" - the part number associated with the color was correct, so I'm pretty confident that they will get it right.
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'66 Emberglo Coupe - Restoration COMPLETE!
Modifications:
5.0 EFI conversion
TwEECer EFI tuning
T56 6-speed
Rod & Custom Motorsports IFS
TCP subframe connectors
Vintage Air Heat & AC

'99 Black Cobra - Daily driver
http://i887.photobucket.com/albums/a...psdd2caa40.jpg
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Old 01-16-2013, 09:17 AM   #42 (permalink)
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Looks great! Good choice for color.
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Old 01-21-2013, 12:07 PM   #43 (permalink)
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I've spent the last couple of days cutting and buffing the clear coat. I still need to hit a few small areas and then polish the entire car.

For the cutting & buffing, I started with 1000 grit sandpaper and then worked my way up with 1500 and 2000 grit (all wet sanded). In places where the clear coat had a more noticeable texture, I started with 800 grit. After the sanding, I hit it with Meguiar's Ultra Cut cutting compound and a rotary buffer with a foam cutting pad. I still need to apply the polish, but it will be Meguiar's Ultra Fine polish applied with a foam polishing pad. After some work with the compounds, there are no sanding marks or swirl marks. The stuff works pretty good. For the large areas, I use my variable speed Makita rotary buffer. For the small areas, I picked up a 3" air powered polisher at Harbor Freight. It gets the job done, but it sure takes a lot of air for such a small tool.

When I had the hood open for buffing the fenders, I accidentally hit the back corner of the hood with the pad and stripped a very small section of paint off. It's noticeable, but I think I might just be able to dab on a bit of base coat and clear coat and buff it out.

I finally got the car outside today so that I can tear down the spray booth and get the garage cleaned up. It's a little overcast here today, so there's not a lot of sunlight available. Here's some updated pictures:






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'66 Emberglo Coupe - Restoration COMPLETE!
Modifications:
5.0 EFI conversion
TwEECer EFI tuning
T56 6-speed
Rod & Custom Motorsports IFS
TCP subframe connectors
Vintage Air Heat & AC

'99 Black Cobra - Daily driver
http://i887.photobucket.com/albums/a...psdd2caa40.jpg

Last edited by Greg'66 5.0; 01-21-2013 at 12:43 PM.
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Old 01-21-2013, 12:23 PM   #44 (permalink)
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Looks Fantastic! Don't you know you can't do a great paint job in a garage, lol....
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Old 01-21-2013, 12:35 PM   #45 (permalink)
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For anyone wanting to know about my home-built spray booth, here are a bunch a pictures I took as I was tearing it apart today. Ventilation is provided by 2 box fans blowing in through 20"x20" filters. Exhaust is just a 24"x24" hole with a filter. The framing is 2"x4" and 2"x3" lumber. Dimensions are 16'x20' and it was large enough to be comfortable to work in. It was initially 12'x20' and that extra 4' of width made a huge difference. Wall plastic is 6 mil and ceiling is 2 mil so that more light can get in. The plastic was attached with plastic button head roofing nails and I used clear packaging tape on the seams. The fans will inflate the booth to come extent, so you need to make sure the plastic won't tear. I did not have any problems at all. I built my walls as 4' wide panels so that I could take the booth apart and store it while I was doing body work. When I was ready to paint, it only took a couple of hours to put everything back together. The ceiling drops down a little bit near the garage doors to provide clearance for the door in case I needed to open it. I used Zipwall zippers (paint section at Home Depot) for my doors.

Garage door end with ventilation exhaust (there was a filter in the hole). The zipper door on the left is how I access my compressor:



House end (the zipper door is right out the door into my house). The box fans and filters are visible in the outside bottom corners:



Ceiling:


Plastic button head nails for attaching plastic to wood:



Bare bones after tearing the plastic off. I used some short pieces of wood screwing to the garage ceiling joists to help support the booth ceiling since the 16' width required 2 pieces of wood in order to span it. My compressor is visible on the left. The plastic around the top of the compressor was there to keep the motor protected from any paint fumes in the air. I didn't want all that stuff running through the motor and, more importantly, did not want to risk an explosion. The plastic runs over to a window that I have cracked open so that fresh air can get to the motor. The compressor takes suction form outside via 2" PVC pipe running outside:




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'66 Emberglo Coupe - Restoration COMPLETE!
Modifications:
5.0 EFI conversion
TwEECer EFI tuning
T56 6-speed
Rod & Custom Motorsports IFS
TCP subframe connectors
Vintage Air Heat & AC

'99 Black Cobra - Daily driver
http://i887.photobucket.com/albums/a...psdd2caa40.jpg

Last edited by Greg'66 5.0; 01-21-2013 at 04:53 PM.
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