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Old 01-13-2013, 08:06 PM   #1 (permalink)
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Default Convertible Top Frame Issues

I've ripped my old top off and am inspecting my frame and found a couple of issues that don't seem quite right to me.

1) The release latch handles don't seem to be the same length. The driver side fits inside the cutout when closed and the passenger side seems to overlap the cutout when closed. I suspect (by the nut on the pivot) that the driver's side has been replaced. Is the correct handle available?



https://lh6.googleusercontent.com/-o...pRemove030.JPG

2) The driver side middle-to-rear segments don't align. It looks like the middle segment might be bent on the inside rail. Are after-market sections available or maybe it can be straightened?



3) The passenger side main frame pivot seems to have jostled loose. Is there a repair kit of some kind available for these?



Thanks for any insight anybody could provide in dealing with these issues.
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Old 01-13-2013, 11:34 PM   #2 (permalink)
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1). Yes, the nut is a past fix. Handles are avalable, but as they are rivited hard to repalce jsut the handle, unless you bolt it, as you have from a PO. Check the two for casting numbers, should be on the underside. Most latches I have seen do not fit flush and do sit a bit outside the slot, maybe old age.

2). Yep, looks bent. Not too uncommon after 40+ years and the things some folks do to these cars. Never seen the rails reporduced as single parts, Dynacorn makes a very nice frame, but it it the eraly 65 style, will fit any 65-68, but if you want "correct" far from it for all but the earliest convertibles, and even then a few minor variations as one would expect. Are all the bushes ont ehat side snug, as the ofset looks to be for the whole cahnnel, indicating misapignment, not bending of the flang. And stress cracks or visual evidence of damage/forcing?

3). The main pivot is just a press fit, I'd guess the inner bushing is cracked and/or missing. Lucky for you, these bushes are one of the few that you can buy repro. NPD part 50473-1A, $6 for all 4.

You may want to see if you can tell if its a franken-frame, as I had on my 68 that may have been repaired by mismatched parts, as there are about 4 or 5 major variations in top frames from early '65 to 68.
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Old 01-13-2013, 11:40 PM   #3 (permalink)
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Forgot to add, the top latch is available, but not just the handle AFAIK, it is the whole handle/arm/hook, old one presses off, new on presses back in (pin removal at base that mounts to the front frame rail).

They do not look like the original or at least the ones I have, as the linkage arm is straight and not curved.

Bottom of this page:
1967-68 Ford Mustang Convertible Tops and Convertible Top Parts

and here:

Convertible Top Latch, Driver's Side - Hydro-E-Lectric

Looks to be the same repro...

If you need parts the only real way is to buy an OEM frame or bits, few are reproduced. But be careful if you want "correct", as noted, there are quite a few major variations year-to-year and even in mid-year running changes...
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8R03S : 76A I 2A 15M 72 5 U
8R01S : 65A B 2A 28M 72 7 5 - Factory GT
8R01C : 65A M 2A 01E 72 2 W - CS/GT
8F01X : 65A I 2G 20E 24 1 U - EXP500 to-be

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Old 01-13-2013, 11:57 PM   #4 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by dalorzof View Post
Are all the bushes ont ehat side snug, as the ofset looks to be for the whole cahnnel, indicating misapignment, not bending of the flang. And stress cracks or visual evidence of damage/forcing?
It looks like the bushes are snug except for the giant screw that pivots the handles. I think I'll just live with what I've got. I'll try to fix the bent frame member. Thanks for the links to the replacement parts.

BTW, your document has been an awesome help. Thanks for writing it!

- Alex O.
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Last edited by aolshove; 01-14-2013 at 11:17 AM.
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Old 01-14-2013, 12:48 AM   #5 (permalink)
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Man, my dyslexia is a PITA... I gotta start spell checking this stuff!
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8R03S : 76A I 2A 15M 72 5 U
8R01S : 65A B 2A 28M 72 7 5 - Factory GT
8R01C : 65A M 2A 01E 72 2 W - CS/GT
8F01X : 65A I 2G 20E 24 1 U - EXP500 to-be

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Old 01-14-2013, 01:31 AM   #6 (permalink)
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And as long as you have access, I would strongly recommend removing the top frame, diassembling and checking all parts. If you take pics/notes, they really only go back together one way and you really can't mess them up.

You can give it a good clean and repaint in a weekend, and you will know:

1. its in good shape
2. it looks good!
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"True terror is to wake up one morning and discover that your high school class is running the country."
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8R03S : 76A I 2A 15M 72 5 U
8R01S : 65A B 2A 28M 72 7 5 - Factory GT
8R01C : 65A M 2A 01E 72 2 W - CS/GT
8F01X : 65A I 2G 20E 24 1 U - EXP500 to-be

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Old 01-14-2013, 11:17 AM   #7 (permalink)
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Okay.

I'll pull the frame, and tear it apart. Thanks for the insight Richard!
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Old 01-14-2013, 11:24 AM   #8 (permalink)
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good info...I have the same project to tackle.
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Old 01-15-2013, 05:50 AM   #9 (permalink)
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If you are working on your own, I'd suggest disassembling the top frame in the car. If you have someone (or two) to help for a few minutes taking out the whole top frame is a bit safer.

I made a jig to assemble the frame off the car, pretty easy to do and lets you take it apart and out it back together and test movements off the car. Also if on the frame you can pre paint a lot of the parts, assemble on the jig, then touch up before installing without risking overspray on the car.

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"True terror is to wake up one morning and discover that your high school class is running the country."
Kurt Vonnegut


8R03S : 76A I 2A 15M 72 5 U
8R01S : 65A B 2A 28M 72 7 5 - Factory GT
8R01C : 65A M 2A 01E 72 2 W - CS/GT
8F01X : 65A I 2G 20E 24 1 U - EXP500 to-be

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Old 01-15-2013, 11:29 AM   #10 (permalink)
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That's an awesome idea. Thanks!
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Old 01-15-2013, 12:46 PM   #11 (permalink)
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Wow! Nice jig, will def. use this when tackling my 67 vert top. I guess you Aussies ain't all bad! (I can say that 'cause my wife's an Aussie)
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