looking at a 66 hardtop

[beechkid]

Originally Posted by bartl

Don't take this the wrong way, but if you buy this car you'd better learn how to do the metal work too. Even if you got it for free, the cost to pay someone to do the metal work, plus paint it, plus mechanical will quickly eat up any equity you may have started with. If you're going to spend the money, spend it up front on a car in better condition.

I agree....from the pics I would say (with a few more assumptions) up to $10K for the sheetmetal work.

[Kenster]

Really bad idea. Why do you have your heart set on this car? Many more out there that will not cost you a fortune in body work on a rust bucket. Do yourself a favor and...
Just say no.

[Israel]

Originally Posted by Vartok

yeah... thats the thing... i cant weld.... going around to body shops tomorrow and get some rough estamates

Ya really gotta be willing to step up and learn how to do most if not all of this stuff yourself,...farming out work on a Rustag will get very expensive, very quickly. There is ALWAY something else that you wern't planning on doing once you dive into it.

You'll be hard pressed to find an easier car to work on mechanical wise than these,...there's really not much to them.

These cars were made to be a cheap, throw away means of sporty transportation, not 50 yr old collectables.

[MisterMiracle]

Those replacement panels never fit right. It takes a lot of banging here and there and back here. Very frustrating. It's a nightmare if you don't have the skills. That's probably why he is selling. Didn't know what he was getting into.
I'd pass. Don't need trouble in my life...

[thespazardman]

I would run run run from that car. If it had immense sentimental value or if you were highly skilled and looking for a challenge, id STILL question it. That 351w may fit between the shock towers, but theres a TON of other work required to make it a driver.

You would be many many thousands of dollars ahead to skip this one and wait for a solid car.

[thespazardman]

Most alarms and keyless entries use a negative trigger for door lock control. If it's positively triggered, a similar wiring schematic is used, just a little different. Either way, you definitely need those two relays to hook up the two wire door lock actuators to an alarm/keyless entry. Well, ive never seen an alarm with the relaying functionality built in, but i haven't seen them all

I wasnt able to locate the installation instructions for either system you mentioned. If you find it online, post the link and i can double check it for you.