i have a friend thats selling a 66 Mustang... im really trying to deside if its worth it or not.
has the orignal 200 I6 and C4 automatic, 4 wheel manual drum brakes, hardtop not fastback has new floorpans mostly welded in but needs to be finished. new front quarters hood and subframe. the rear quearters needs to be replaces from rust and comes with the new panels. new wheel well need to be bought and welded in. seats in better condition than in my daly driver and headline if for the most part intact. now it doesnt run currently but did when it was parked. it also comes with a 351w that he bought for it as well as new door handles and mirrors. these first pics were once he sent me when he was trying to work on it
now these are ones i took yesterday of the problem areas... the driver rear panel is just sittin on the car but the passenger one still needs to be cut out....
Not sure whereabouts you live, but in most parts of the country you can probably find a better starting point for that price or perhaps just a teeny bit more. That thing looks like the only original metal it will have left is the roof. Lots of work. And don't forget you have to pay tax on that purchase too. The only reason I mention that is because in MA where I live, that's a major "gotchya" because you are taxed on the NADA value which could end in you paying an additional $400-$500 for that car. Not sure what the rules are in your area but you might want to look into it and factor that in.
__________________
1966 Mustang Convertible - T Code - vintage burgundy / black pony interior
1966 Mustang Coupe - C Code - currently red / black standard interior (going back to original dark moss green / ivy gold and white pony interior)
Not sure whereabouts you live, but in most parts of the country you can probably find a better starting point for that price or perhaps just a teeny bit more. That thing looks like the only original metal it will have left is the roof. Lots of work. And don't forget you have to pay tax on that purchase too. The only reason I mention that is because in MA where I live, that's a major "gotchya" because you are taxed on the NADA value which could end in you paying an additional $400-$500 for that car. Not sure what the rules are in your area but you might want to look into it and factor that in.
Im in KY and if you have a recept or atleast a signed paper saying how much you payed for it, thats the tax you pay.. and really its the first 66 ive see that wasnt compleated around here... or any older mustang for that matter
yeah... thats the thing... i cant weld.... going around to body shops tomorrow and get some rough estamates
If that is the case from my past experiences you would be better to keep searching. Look for a solid car metal wise that may need other work that you can perform yourself. Finding a solid base is tough at times but woth the wait and you will actually make out price wise in the long run. I am sure if you ask for estimates most shops will be hesitant to give one as when you start into a project like that, more always goes wrong and costs more as well. Check the classifieds on this site or put out one in the wanted section yourself. I did that and am now checking into a 64 1/2 roller to work on next I hope. Best of luck.
the metal work is really the only thing i cant do... i can do the rest myself
Don't take this the wrong way, but if you buy this car you'd better learn how to do the metal work too. Even if you got it for free, the cost to pay someone to do the metal work, plus paint it, plus mechanical will quickly eat up any equity you may have started with. If you're going to spend the money, spend it up front on a car in better condition.
I would definitely not pay 1500 for an I6 that requires that extent of work.
__________________ "Natalie", '66 Coupe
Freshly Rebuilt 4-Speed w/ Hurst Performance Plus
289, Holley Carb, Edelbrock Intake and Water Pump, Tefba, Summit Direct Fit Rad
3.55 with Posi, Zoom Clutch
Next On the Agenda:
Interior - Replace floorpans (in progress), new carpet, tilt column, new steering wheel
Exterior/Body/Performance: Windshield (in progress), New cowl (in progress), weatherstripping, power steering
If you're not doing the metal work yourself, no way on earth you should get anywhere near that car.
That car would be a bad idea even if you were prepared to do the body work.
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