...for those times youre out driving and the rain starts pouring down.
This stops water from entering a ( possibly ) leaky cowl area, and make its way to the carpet and rusting out the floor beneath it.
Great story and very nice car. Keep that car dry as much as possible. Don't let it get wet even once and if it does, dry it thoroughly ASAP, especially under the dash, under the chrome trim, etc.. These cars attract rust like crazy! Don't drive it on salty roads on wintertime. Ever! Major sin. You'll kill it! If you do, sane people will look at you and cringe! (LOL)
I bought a 12X17' Tarp canopy w/frame at Harbor Freight for $160.0 and a cover for mine, but I've been lucky to find a nearby home garage for it.
Until you get it "refreshed", rust protection is a major task for you. A can of WD-40 is a great thing to have around.
Thanks for the story and the pics.
MM
Update -I've decoded the tags on it. (I'm sure it's simple for the regulars here, but I'm new).
I'd like to post that info here but I don't know what should be shared and what shouldn't be. I see pictures of vin numbers with the last few numbers obscured. What's the etiquette for that? What about for the warranty tag info?
Posting the entirety of the data plate is not an issue. Some people have a paranoia about it, but if you go into any parking lot all modern vehicles have their VINs visible through the windshield. Obscure the last numbers if you wish. I find it silly like people obscuring their license plates. To each their own.
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Formerly of the Permanently Addicted...
Let it be known that I do not street race or condone that sort of thing
- unless the 'b@stard deserves it.
Someone takes his pants off and the rafters knock
Rock is dead they say
Long Live Rock!
67 conv. 289 4spd(mine), 67 coupe 289 Export(swmbo's)
Personally - I would sell the car cheap to someone in a warmer, dryer climate (like Texas) in an attempt to save it from cold, wet, snow and salt damage! lol
Great story. Lucky you. Most of us wish we were in your situation. I used to live in the cold salt climates and trust me, NEVER drive that car in the winter. Maybe you had never planned to... Like others have said, you should take pictures of every inch of that car including the underside. The drum to disk conversion is common and not too expensive. Good drum brakes work just fine though. I suggest keeping the car original. There aren't too many left like that these days and you can always upgrade/mod it later. I'm a younger mustang owner having gotten a vintage stang when I was in high school. I'm in my 30's now and glad I never went too crazy on my car. Only "day 2" mods like wheels, carb, intake, and exhaust. keep all original parts that you remove from the car too. Make sure you dirve the thing! let others see it and ride in it. Pass along the Mustang bug...
I don't mean to be a kill joy here, but that car was 11 years old when it went into storage, it had 125,000 miles on it, had been in a wreck, and (partially?) repainted. It is likely mostly/somewhat original, but it is also mostly worn out and will need a lot of work to be safe and functional.
It's 125,000 miles were put on the car in the rust belt. i can't imagine that it doesn't have a significant amount rust in a few areas.
I bought my 1965 Convertible in 1978, and it was already a Fred Flintstone car from rust and just about everything needed to be fixed.
I think it is a great story, but unless the new owner wants to do the show car circuit he should plan on a lot of upgrades and repairs.
Location: Lombard, IL (a western suburb of Chicago)
Posts: 1,214
My guess is that your interior is black; upon fading the black starts to turn into looking dark blue. I agree with JSHarvey, at 125,000 these cars were getting pretty worn out. I rebuilt my entire front suspension at 100,000 miles and it was long overdue. Check floors and cowls for rust and expect that your fuel lines and brake lines may be very suspect.
Good luck with the project, Royal Maroon and black is a great combo (I'm a little biased).
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1968 C code fastback. 463 cu. in. stroked FE, Tremec TKO, 3.70 N-case detroit locker
Visibility Group, 8k Factory Tachometer, Bench Seat
I think it is a great story, but unless the new owner wants to do the show car circuit he should plan on a lot of upgrades and repairs.
Indeed, this car was not brand new when it was put away.
For starters, the floor pans will need to be replaced at some point. I don't think that a-typical though. There are also a lot of pock marks on the chrome. I think most of the trim can be re-chromed but I'm afraid about the back bumper, the pock marks there are pretty deep...
But unlike a barn-stored car there were no mice or rats in it. I don't have any reason to believe that any of the wiring is suspect.
There's some stitching that's come undone on the roof, and the silicone that joins the two panes of glass in the rear was "enhanced" with duct tape to keep the rain out.
The upholstery is in pretty darn good shape though. There's a small tear in the driver's side back seat, but it's nothing I'll worry too much about. The front seats are used but no cracks or tears.
I'll most certainly completely redo the brakes, from the master cylinder back. I'm also going to have the engine checked out for compression, the gas tank checked for rust and the water pump checked out (I believe there's a gasket going bad there and some antifreeze is now dripping when the car is running).
But 43 years at 68° with no sunlight has kept her in pretty good shape, all things considered.
After I run her for the summer I'll have a much better idea as to what repairs to make. Right now I just want her to be safe, legal, and fun.
Last edited by Leeds; 01-23-2013 at 03:29 PM.
Reason: Added photos
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