driveshaft length for 302 & AOD

wareagle · 01-15-2013, 11:58 AM

What is the suggested driveshaft length

wareagle · 01-15-2013, 04:14 PM

Bueler, Bueler...

GTA6T7 · 01-15-2013, 05:10 PM

It depends on which AOD tailshaft you have. The best thing to do is see if your old shaft will fit. Mine did. If you do a search here, you will find links to driveshaft measurement methods in case you need to have one made. You can have one made locally fairly cheap.

hughnews1 · 01-15-2013, 06:58 PM

yeah get the alum one from JY easy to cut if Not fitting .. and here in Fl alum is $20 LOL

geicoman58 · 01-15-2013, 09:42 PM

watch out for the pre-made units. cjs sold me one for my 66 k code gt, at the time no one thought about the car having a stock 9 " rear...6 months later when i went to install it i found it was to long, and the ujoints were wrong...they would not take it back-even for store credit. if i had to do it over i would just get one made from a reputable driveshaft shop like denny's driveshafts

66kcar · 01-15-2013, 11:27 PM

Geico - any reason you did not use the k driveshaft? I am going to be doing this soon and want to try the factory (K) shaft. I also have the factory aod shaft to remove the front yoke from....just trying to save a few bucks if possible.

I have wondered what the 9 inch would add to this equation?

geicoman58 · 01-16-2013, 07:16 AM

The car was a factory auto k gt, I swapped out the original c4 back in the 70's,(who knew) so since the orginalty was kinda gone, and I want to cruise on long trips in the car I decided to go with an aod. I bought a kit from performance automatic at the Carlise car show andhad talked with cj about the shorter driveshaft-most aods are longer than the c4's, The one they recomended was on sale, and since I assumed I would have to shorten the stock driveshaft anyways, and an alum. shaft sounded better-I just went ahead and ordered it. When I went to install the trans, the hipo flexplate wouldnt work with the converter-157 teeth-it had been balanced when the engine was rebuilt, so I had to get one that would work, have it match balanced, then begin anew. Now, the 9" 3rd member is bigger than the 8"-it just sticks out of the housing another inch and a half or so....actually, the original driveshaft is about the same length as what i got from cj's. Having pitched parts I took off this car before, I also thought i should put the stock driveshaft with the parts off the car i did save(fan,exhaust and intake manifolds, in case the car would ever go back to bone stock. I would suggest you all get the trans in first, then measure to see exactly what you need. Also pay attention to the ujoint cap and width sizes for whatever you are going to merge. I havent had the alum shaft shortedned the needed 1 1/2 inch or so yet, but that is on the to do list. Lots of things on that list still by the way, I hope to have the car on the road this summer.

66kcar · 01-16-2013, 07:10 PM

OK - Thanks. I have a daily driver aod/5.0 car T-Bird and swapping that into my factory 66 K-auto mustang.

wareagle · 01-18-2013, 07:45 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by 66kcar

OK - Thanks. I have a daily driver aod/5.0 car T-Bird and swapping that into my factory 66 K-auto mustang.

What was your driveshaft length? Am thinking 51"

66kcar · 01-18-2013, 09:17 PM

On which car? from center to center on the u-joints?

I'll have to crawl under and measure. Just drove the t-bird to work today - 40 some miles each way....I will feel bad sending her to the crusher, but with the rust and all - oh well....

The mustang is in an awkward storage situation right now. Not easy to get to the car for measurements. I would have to move a few cars to get to it. A buddy keeps it for me behind his shop........