I have SSBC brakes as well, I have the same symptoms as you. Feels to me like the pads are too hard with not enough friction. I have read in several places that people don't like the pads. I'll be trying new pads (not ssbc) before it heads back on the road. kip
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65 Fastback
302, Toploader, 3.0 open rear
4 wheel manual disks (SSBC Force 10)
Flaming River 16:1 steering, A/C, MSD ign.
Opentrackerracing roller perches, upper and lower control arms, roller idler
Street or Track adjustable strut rods, Edelbrock IAS shocks
I've got SSBC discs up front and 10x1.75 drums out back with a manual m/c and I can lock the brakes at most any speed below 80. Heck, if I jumped on them with both feet maybe I could then, too....
The pedal does depress about an inch after I pump it 4 or 5 times and then start the car. I did just solve my brakes dragging by adjusting the MC push rod a few days ago. The problem was that while I was driving after a few miles the front calipers wouldn't disengage and every time I used the brakes once is started to do that, they would engage more and more. I was never able to lock up the brakes by panic stopping when it was adjusted like that either.
I did test the travel too. All the measurements were within a 1/2". I've seated the pads, both they and the rotors are brand new. I didn't scuff the rotors with emery cloth though.
How far out is the MC push rod supposed to be?
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-Ryan 66 A code Coupe w/ C4
Day I bought it:
How it sits now:
RIP - 93 sonic blue foxbody
Once you've made sure you have no air in the hydraulic system,
you really need a couple of gauges to screw into the front caliper
brake bleeders and see what kind of pressure you're generating.
If you can generate, say 1000 psi, up front......the issue is in the
pad/shoe formulation.
Crappy pads/shoes would not surprise me, particularly where the
FMSI D-11 is concerned (ft early Mustang pad). I got some from
SSBC once that would have been outperformed by two slabs of
balsa wood.
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Ill try and get some gauges sometime today or tomorrow. The pads I have are Stoptech/C-tek pads and Powerslot rotors with remand. K-H calipers. Ive only checked the rear drums and the shoes look brand new. Im kinda new to drum brakes though.
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-Ryan 66 A code Coupe w/ C4
Day I bought it:
How it sits now:
RIP - 93 sonic blue foxbody
Once you've made sure you have no air in the hydraulic system,
you really need a couple of gauges to screw into the front caliper
brake bleeders and see what kind of pressure you're generating.
If you can generate, say 1000 psi, up front......the issue is in the
pad/shoe formulation.
Crappy pads/shoes would not surprise me, particularly where the
FMSI D-11 is concerned (ft early Mustang pad). I got some from
SSBC once that would have been outperformed by two slabs of
balsa wood.
The proportioning valve was almost closed all the way, so I decided to open it some.. After I opened it more the pedal gets softer, but the prop valve isnt leaking. so is the pedal supposed to get softer when opening the valve more? I would think not.
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-Ryan 66 A code Coupe w/ C4
Day I bought it:
How it sits now:
RIP - 93 sonic blue foxbody
Well, it's possible that the prop valve was not letting ANY pressure to the rear brakes in which case, yes, opening it and allowing fluid will cause the pedal to travel further. The other possibility is that having it shut and, thus, no fluid moving in the rear circuit, the plunger in the M/C was not traveling far enough to build up adequate pressure in the front circuit either as it's fluid in between the front and rear pistons that transmits force from the front piston to the rear. You may want to make sure everything is bled and adjusted properly again and see if it makes a difference. All else fails, the suggestion about pressure gauges on the system is kinda the last resort.
Well, it's possible that the prop valve was not letting ANY pressure to the rear brakes in which case, yes, opening it and allowing fluid will cause the pedal to travel further. The other possibility is that having it shut and, thus, no fluid moving in the rear circuit, the plunger in the M/C was not traveling far enough to build up adequate pressure in the front circuit either as it's fluid in between the front and rear pistons that transmits force from the front piston to the rear. You may want to make sure everything is bled and adjusted properly again and see if it makes a difference. All else fails, the suggestion about pressure gauges on the system is kinda the last resort.
That makes sense. Hopefully after I bleed them all will be good
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-Ryan 66 A code Coupe w/ C4
Day I bought it:
How it sits now:
RIP - 93 sonic blue foxbody
As an update I opened the prop valve and bled the brakes again.. Now I can finally stop!! Lol.. The was a lot of air in the rear so I guess the valve was stopping me from getting all of the air out of the brakes.. Thanks everyone for the help.
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-Ryan 66 A code Coupe w/ C4
Day I bought it:
How it sits now:
RIP - 93 sonic blue foxbody
As an update I opened the prop valve and bled the brakes again.. Now I can finally stop!! Lol.. The was a lot of air in the rear so I guess the valve was stopping me from getting all of the air out of the brakes.. Thanks everyone for the help.
Just noticed your update. I never went back and rebled my back lines with the prop valve open completely. I will give that a try on mine. Thanks for posting your fix. It helps.
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