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Old 01-15-2013, 07:21 PM   #1 (permalink)
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Default Front and rear aprons...

Got the fenders, doors and front clip off the 67, and on jack stands, finally! I've been working on getting my garage setup (insulated, heat, etc) to start the resto for the past few weeks. So now the hard work begins...

I figured I'd start from the front of the car, and work my way to the back. Noticed that someone got in a small fender bender at some point, and crinkled the front drivers apron, so that is going to get replaced. The shock towers are new, as well as the battery side apron (not sure why the person didn't replaced drivers side). I am also going to replace the rear aprons from firewall to shock tower since they are a bit cobbed from someone trying to repair where the hood hidges bolt to. The pass side front frame rail seems to be alittle rusty so thought I'd go after that aswell.

Anyone have any suggestions or advice before I tackle this first step? This is my first restoration but I am very mechanically capable, and can weld. Since I'm not really touching the top frame rails...and if drill out spot welds, everything should pretty much fall back into place correct?

Sorry for the long post!

Thanks!
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Old 01-16-2013, 09:20 AM   #2 (permalink)
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If, the apron is the whole one with the Fomoco vin stamped in you willl want to do some figuring. Can you cut the metal without disturbing the vin number area? Why I bring this up is some folks have posted here the their car's have had this same metal replaced, and, the folks didn't pay attention to these numbers. So they are "missing". Well, isn't that what all the car thieves say? THESE numbers are the real legal ones used for car identification. Then number plate on the door states "Not for registration purposes".
Are the numbers on the other side, same panel? If not, go carefully here. You can devalue your car if you don't watch out. Save those numbers.
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Old 01-16-2013, 09:53 AM   #3 (permalink)
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What do you mean... "top frame rails"?

Obviously you are going to pull the engine and maybe the trans (I'd pull them as a unit anyway). I would support the body shell at the rear portion of the front subframes, if you're going to be leaving those alone, aft of the firewall and under the rear subframes by the leaf spring mount. Do one side at a time and check your measurements and alignment twice before welding. I would cut the VIN's from the old panels leaving at least 3 inches around, cut out the new aprons using the pieces as a template, and butt weld them into place. Grind the welds and they should be invisible when done. Perfectly legal when it's done as part of a repair to the vehicle.
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Old 01-16-2013, 08:43 PM   #4 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Roddster View Post
You can devalue your car if you don't watch out. Save those numbers.
Quote:
Originally Posted by bartl View Post
What do you mean... "top frame rails"?

Obviously you are going to pull the engine and maybe the trans (I'd pull them as a unit anyway). I would support the body shell at the rear portion of the front subframes, if you're going to be leaving those alone, aft of the firewall and under the rear subframes by the leaf spring mount. Do one side at a time and check your measurements and alignment twice before welding. I would cut the VIN's from the old panels leaving at least 3 inches around, cut out the new aprons using the pieces as a template, and butt weld them into place. Grind the welds and they should be invisible when done. Perfectly legal when it's done as part of a repair to the vehicle.
I will definitely pay close attention in removing the VINs, and putting them in the new panel, since the drivers side is still there. The motor and trans are out, and fenders, doors, and front clip is off aswell. The top frame rails - where the fenders bolt at the top...I wont be doing much work with those. Although, the pass side "subframe" (I guess?) just below were the upper control arm bolts, is alittle rough near the rad support, and has been patched, but half-a$$ed...so I thought about replacing that front section, if someone makes a replacement?

Thanks for the advice, definitely didn't realize there were VIN numbers there until I read both of your posts. Its amazing what some thick paint can camoflauge...
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Old 01-16-2013, 11:52 PM   #5 (permalink)
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The top, where the fenders bolt, is part of the apron.
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Old 01-17-2013, 07:17 AM   #6 (permalink)
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Quote:
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The top, where the fenders bolt, is part of the apron.
Ahh, ok.

Is there is a repro front subframe available...just the short part from shock tower to rad support?
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