Want to paint interior pieces, dont know what paint to get
I'd like to start painting the interior pieces to freshen them up and restore them, specifically the rear quarter panels and the door pads that surround the middle door panels (not sure what its called, but its the pliable part you rest your arm on that surrounds the door panel). What kind of paint do I need from NPD and how much do I need? Is there a way to fix nicks in the door pads? Thanks in advance!
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1968 289 Coupe "Sally"
2002 GT Vert "Sasha"
I'd like to start painting the interior pieces to freshen them up and restore them, specifically the rear quarter panels and the door pads that surround the middle door panels (not sure what its called, but its the pliable part you rest your arm on that surrounds the door panel). What kind of paint do I need from NPD and how much do I need? Is there a way to fix nicks in the door pads? Thanks in advance!
I used black factory color duplicolor from o-Riley's... took me 2 of the little cans to do both my rear quarters, hood hinges, and rear window roller frames and the belt pully for the engine..
As for nicks in the door pads do you mean the door panels? armrest? or the door frame itself?
1967 fiberglass fastback, all aluminum 427 supercharged and racing coilovers all around. "Still waiting to find a sequential manual transmission under 20k "
I'd like to start painting the interior pieces to freshen them up and restore them, specifically the rear quarter panels and the door pads that surround the middle door panels (not sure what its called, but its the pliable part you rest your arm on that surrounds the door panel).
If the old paint is chipped or is coming off, you want to remove it, to create a smooth surface. You can use lacquer thinner, but test it on a hidden area first, to make sure it doesnt damage the surface
I had to commit the ultimate sin and box blast my rear panels due to rust in the middle of them.. they turned out great however for some lucky reason..
1967 fiberglass fastback, all aluminum 427 supercharged and racing coilovers all around. "Still waiting to find a sequential manual transmission under 20k "
If the old paint is chipped or is coming off, you want to remove it, to create a smooth surface. You can use lacquer thinner, but test it on a hidden area first, to make sure it doesnt damage the surface
I'm thinking of the panels that surround the door panels. Its the interior of the door minus the cardboard door panel inserts.
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1968 289 Coupe "Sally"
2002 GT Vert "Sasha"
1967 fiberglass fastback, all aluminum 427 supercharged and racing coilovers all around. "Still waiting to find a sequential manual transmission under 20k "
Yup... unless i'm mistaken that has all the little lines and groves cut into it like in my rear panel pic I posted above? at least that's how it is in my 67, someone must've been in a big hurry to ding one of those.. I slammed my ratchet HARD on the bottom part of mine by mistake when I was taking the windows out and before I even looked at it I was expecting a ding and there wasn't anything..
1967 fiberglass fastback, all aluminum 427 supercharged and racing coilovers all around. "Still waiting to find a sequential manual transmission under 20k "
I painted that part of my doors with a single stage urethane automotive paint applied with a small spray gun. You could also use an interior paint in a spray can. If you go with the spray can, I recommend the stuff that NPD sells. There are 2 types of paint that NPD offers - there is an interior paint made by SEM which I think is more of a dye than a paint for metal. They also offer a different brand for metal - I don't remember if it is lacquer or enamel. I used it to paint my dash and it works very well. Whatever you do, do not use the Rainbow Industries brand paint that is sold by some vendors. That stuff is so thin it's like spraying water. It will run no matter how careful you are when applying it. I had no issues at all with the paint from NPD.
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'66 Emberglo Coupe - Restoration in progress
Modifications:
5.0 EFI conversion
T56 6-speed
Rod & Custom Motorsports IFS
TCP subframe connectors
Vintage Air Heat & AC
I used rustoleum spray from Home Depot. Works great and never had an issue. As for upholstery or the door panel/dashpad, I used that SEM paint and that works great.
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Dave
2004 Nissan Titan Crew Cab
1966 Ford Mustang Original 289
Edelbrock RPM Performer Heads; bored .30 over
Weiand Stealth Intake, Holley 600 CFM Carb.
Comp Cam 268H 9.5:1 Speed Pro Pistons
Patriot Tri-Y Headers w/ 2.5" H Pipe, Flowmaster 40S
620 1" drop in front, CSRP Front Disk Brakes.
Ford 8 3.40 trac-loc rear end
1967 fiberglass fastback, all aluminum 427 supercharged and racing coilovers all around. "Still waiting to find a sequential manual transmission under 20k "
I used rustoleum spray from Home Depot. Works great and never had an issue. As for upholstery or the door panel/dashpad, I used that SEM paint and that works great.
Which SEM paint did you use ? I checked out the SEM website and there are many different types.
On a side note, does anyone know how to bring back the texture in the doors?
Strip them with HD Easy Off (or other paint remover) or if possible media blast. I would be careful with a wire wheel (use copper as noted above) or any kind of sanding as it removes the grain. (The grained area where your elbow rests tends to be worn after forty years on most mustangs.) Keep your paint as thin as possible, so use a gun with quality paint versus rattle can if you are able.
I removed and media blasted my fastback trapdoor and it looks amazing. The doors I chemically stripped but did not get all the paint out of the grain and they don't look near as crisp. I simply wasn't patient enough with repeated applications of Easy Off as it was working very well (on metal you can leave it on for twenty minutes or so to soften the paint). When I redo them ... I will media blast the interior grained metal of the doors ensuring all the paint is removed.
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