Hello everyone,
As my subject line states, I'm looking for the best motor mounts for a daily driven '65 with a 289. I looked at my oil pan from a distance and my motor is definitely not sitting evenly.
I was looking at the different polyurethane ones, but I don't even know if they're worth the extra cost. I have been having fun since the rebuild, so maybe I need some beefier ones.
Any suggestions?
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-Art Nunez
One Man, Four Mustangs
Natalie- My 1973 Mustang Grande (351C-2v-C4 Trans)
The Geezer- My 1972 Mustang Grande (302-2v- FMX Trans)
Ana (Banana)- My 1965 C-Code Coupe (289-2v- C4 Trans)
Cerberus (The Beast) - My Ugly 1973 Mustang Grande (351C-2v- FMX Trans)
I would get the OEM mounts. What I did with mine was to drill through the mounts on either side of the stud and run bolts through them. I think I used 5/16" grade 5 bolts in mine. The reasoning behind that is because the rubber part of the mount is just bonded to the steel part and they tend to break there fairly easily in my experience. You can probably get away with just doing that to the driver's side mount.
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64 1/2 Raven Black Coupe
D code 289
C4 auto
3.00:1 open rear
In the replacement process, you may want to convert to the later '66 type. For a driver, I would stick with the original type, although the '66 design is much better.
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SWMBO's '66 Coupe 289, 2-V, C-4(Pony Interior, Rally Pac, A/C & Tiffany Stripe) & An absolutely rust free '65 289-2V C-4 coupe project now UPGRADED to about 93.891% complete. Only a few more years.
Ron Morris mounts are not solid, but ARE much more rigid than the stock mounts. I used them for many years on a previous car and was completely satisfied. I will be putting a new set of them on my current K code as soon as possible.
I would get the OEM mounts. What I did with mine was to drill through the mounts on either side of the stud and run bolts through them. I think I used 5/16" grade 5 bolts in mine. The reasoning behind that is because the rubber part of the mount is just bonded to the steel part and they tend to break there fairly easily in my experience. You can probably get away with just doing that to the driver's side mount.
+1 on that
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I have the Prothane 66 Style mounts they are nice and will probably outlast stock. Downside is imo they are stiffer and with an aggressive camshaft I think the car rocks more looking down the fenders at idle seem to move similar to solid mounts.
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Kevin
1965 Fastback-Scat 331, Dart heads, FPA headers, Air Gap intake, 650 Ultra DP, Cobra pan, Lunati VooDoo cam 61003, C-4, 10 inch converter, Reverse manual valve body,Detroit Truetracw/3.50s, subframe connectors.
1968 S-code Torino Fastback= project
1966 A-code Mustang coupe=Basket case not sure what to do with it used some parts for the fastback.
I would get the OEM mounts. What I did with mine was to drill through the mounts on either side of the stud and run bolts through them. I think I used 5/16" grade 5 bolts in mine. The reasoning behind that is because the rubber part of the mount is just bonded to the steel part and they tend to break there fairly easily in my experience. You can probably get away with just doing that to the driver's side mount.
It's an old racer's trick, but works extremely well. Might cost you $3 and an hour or two, they'll never fail.
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Amateur restorer. (Well, once in a while I have been paid for it)
If you do any spirited driving or track or drag I would not recommend oem unless you use the bolt trick. After splitting about three sets at the track I switched to ron morris and have never had a problem since. They are a little pricey so the bolt trick might be a good option if price is an issue. My 1 cent. Good luck
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67 Fastback. Modified 289 with paxton.
Yeah, I do some spirited driving, but not $225 worth of it. LOL
I'm gonna go with the bolt trick. Thanks guys!
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-Art Nunez
One Man, Four Mustangs
Natalie- My 1973 Mustang Grande (351C-2v-C4 Trans)
The Geezer- My 1972 Mustang Grande (302-2v- FMX Trans)
Ana (Banana)- My 1965 C-Code Coupe (289-2v- C4 Trans)
Cerberus (The Beast) - My Ugly 1973 Mustang Grande (351C-2v- FMX Trans)
aren't the Lakewood Muscle Mounts supposed to be interlocking internally? i had a set, they pretty much looked like stock on the outside and weren't very expensive if i remember right ($25/ea?).
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