Some Serious NooB questions....My 1st Mustang

[Chewable]

I am in the process if getting my first Mustang.

A very kind friend of mine is selling me his 1968 Coupe - it has the 289 in it. It has sat in his garage for the last 7 years. It was last registered in 2000. He stopped driving it because the brakes "needed work".

I have been going over in the evenings when I can to work on it and try to get it ready to move to my house. I have a detached garage to put it into, but ideally it needs to get in there under its own power. I need to get it out of his house in the next few weeks.

Currently I have drained the oil.

I am going to siphon the gas out tomorrow.

My serious questions are:

1) Should I pull the Carb and attempt to clean it or leave it in the car for now and just try to get it running with "new" gas?
2) Draining and refilling the Transmission? Do it now or wait until I get it moved?
3) The brakes - I am scared a bit of this. I am hoping that they are not seized or rusted in place. The car has been garaged for the last 7 years and it drove into that garage. As soon as I get it to my house I intend to put it up on stands and pull all 4 wheels and most likely replace most of the brake components, but for now what can I get away with.....
4) Currently I have drained the oil, but have not put new in yet. What oil should I put in? I was going to just put Penzoil 10w-30w for now just to get it moved. I live in the Seattle Area.


I am only able to work on it for about 2 hours on any night and I am only able to go over there 1 or 2 days a week. They are not home a lot and they have a small child that dominates their schedule.

I am positive I will have many more questions. This is my 1st real American car. I have always had Volkswagons and Hondas. Currently I have a 1989 Volvo as a daily driver and I have to work on that from time to time.

[myresto68mustang]

1. If you know mechanics and it wouldn't be too hard then yes i would. Pull it off and use carb fluid too clean.
2. Dont drain, unless you are moving it along way.
3. Get your friend to push the car while u are in it and see if they work.
4. Dont really know this one. I forgot what mine uses.
PM me if u have any more questions. Glad your getting one

[beechkid]

I would #1 check the brakes and make sure they are fully functioning...once you get that established, now even if you have to drag it home 9ie tow rope/strap) you can safely do it. I would leave everything else (except the engine oil/filter...change out) , charge the battery and see if it will fire up....on the way home make sure you have someone follow you....with a tow rope/strap!

[George.Galo]

Before you try to start it, pull the spark plugs and squirt some Marvel Mystery oil in the cylinders.
you should probably try to clean the carb(if it were me, I'd try it as is) how far are you going?
The 10/30 oil should be good, you're going to want to change it again soon anyway.

[Stanger68]

I have a little bit of experience with this because I was in the same boat your in 4-5 months ago. I got mine running good enough to drive it home... I thought. It died on me about 80% of the way home. After spending a few moments on the side of the road watching the smoke pour out from under my hood I realized that I probably should have towed the car. The carb needed rebuilt and it was spewing fuel out the hole way and I'm lucky it didn't catch fire. I would suggest you tow it until you have a chance to go through everything. "better safe than sorry"

You will love your car!

[Zimbo]

I hear good things from Mobile 1 and royal purple.. but do be honest if you haven't ran those oils from day 1 it doesn't make a difference..


I assume you can turn the engine over? if you have not attempted it I recommend this.. just get a socket to fit the crank pully bolt and rotate the engine over 3 or 4 times to make sure it's not in any type of bind.. if it's been inside you shouldn't need sparkplugs...

hopefully the gas tank is full and not 1/4th's full or else it "may" have rust in it... what I would do is get a secondary paper style filter that you can see and splice it into the fuel line inside the engine bay where you can see it after you add new gas and attempt to start it.. make sure you get one that has a clear housing.. you'll see the rust pieces and ect when the filter blocks it.. i highly recommend this... or else you'll be in for some carb work when it sucks that rust in there..

what I would do is bring a full socket set, break over bar, WD-40, starting fluid and whatever else you think you'll need to do the above..

Also if the car doesn't want to start you should check if it has spark.. just take a sparkplug out of the head and with the wire attached to it place the threads of the plug onto the engine heads anywhere and turn the key and look for spark..

oh and bring a battery with a charger...
Hope this was helpful..

______________EDIT_____________

I would do the brakes there if you're driving it home.. or even onto a trailer.. if driving it home be sure to check over everything else aswell... I just read the other posts on here..

[Chewable]

Sorry I should give a bit more information.

I intend to use my AAA to have it towed to my house. It will only have to drive into the garage. I do not intend to drive it anymore then 500 feet.

Right now it is in a garage that is on a steep driveway. If it comes out of the current garage there is not easy way to get it back in.

[22GT]

A very kind friend of mine is selling me his 1968 Coupe - it has the 289 in it. It has sat in his garage for the last 7 years. It was last registered in 2000. He stopped driving it because the brakes "needed work".
This could be very good news for you. Rebuilding the brake system is not so big a chore.

Currently I have drained the oil.
Good start. Now put in new oil, and filter.

I am going to siphon the gas out tomorrow.
Also good. Gas that old could almost put fires out.

My serious questions are:

1) Should I pull the Carb and attempt to clean it or leave it in the car for now and just try to get it running with "new" gas?
Amazing what the 2100 can do. I'd leave it for now.

2) Draining and refilling the Transmission? Do it now or wait until I get it moved?
After.

3) The brakes - I am scared a bit of this. I am hoping that they are not seized or rusted in place. The car has been garaged for the last 7 years and it drove into that garage. As soon as I get it to my house I intend to put it up on stands and pull all 4 wheels and most likely replace most of the brake components, but for now what can I get away with.....
Be very careful. Even if they are working, with full master cylinder, they may not last more than a few moments.

4) Currently I have drained the oil, but have not put new in yet. What oil should I put in? I was going to just put Penzoil 10w-30w for now just to get it moved. I live in the Seattle Area.
That's fine. Don't forget the filter.

I am only able to work on it for about 2 hours on any night and I am only able to go over there 1 or 2 days a week. They are not home a lot and they have a small child that dominates their schedule.
Get it moved as soon as possible. It doesn't have to be running for that.

You should also replace the coolant in the engine.

Before trying to start the engine, remove the old gas, put in new, and use an electric pump in the engine compartment attached to the rubber fuel line to suck new gas through the fuel line. The do it again, to draw fuel through the fuel pump. Remove the spark plugs (clean and gap them while they are out) and put a squirt of light oil in each cylinder. Remove the distributor, and use a power drill to spin the oil pump counter-clockwise to pump oil to the bearings, cam, and valve system. Replace the distributor, and spin the engine with the plugs still out to lube the cylinders. Replace the plugs, and start the engine.

[LynnBob 65 Mustang]

Originally Posted by Chewable

I intend to use my AAA to have it towed to my house.

You need to be very care full on how you do this. If your trying to get a free towing out of it.
AAA is intended to tow a broken down vehicle and not one that hasn't been run or moving in 7 years, there is a difference.

I've tried this before, AAA said NO DICE, unless I wanted to pay the full tow of coarse.
Good luck with that one.
Lynn

[22GT]

Ah, yeah, just hire a flat-tow truck, and pay up. Small investment.

[Gas_Pumps]

+1 several times on 22GT's recommendation. Have it flat bedded to your place and do the brakes and everything else at your convenience. Do not risk trying to drive it when your time is limited. Good Luck - and welcome to the club.

[65fastback6]

Originally Posted by LynnBob 65 Mustang

You need to be very care full on how you do this. If your trying to get a free towing out of it.
AAA is intended to tow a broken down vehicle and not one that hasn't been run or moving in 7 years, there is a difference.

I've tried this before, AAA said NO DICE, unless I wanted to pay the full tow of coarse.
Good luck with that one.
Lynn

You are right on that, I use to run AAA calls 20+ years ago and even if a
car had a expired state inspection we could refuse to tow it, can't imagine
things have changed much since then.

[Pynikal]

i cant believe that nobody has said anything about tires!! check those tires and make sure that they arent dry rotted and crack up to the point that they blow out!!

but i guess that you are towing it so never mind......

[Chewable]

If I remove the distributor to prime the oil pump do I have to re-time everything after putting it back in?

I ask because I want to run the engine for the least amount of time until I get it to my house. Once in my garage I feel better about taking my time.......

I will post and update tomorrow evening after I get another chance to work on it....
I also understand about what people are saying about AAA, but since I paid for the high package to cover my motorcycle I figure I will give it a try. I will ask that it be a flatbed. If they balk or give me grief I will just pay up to have it towed - about 25 miles to my house.

[Chewable]

I am worried about the tires as well. I have thought about it.