Finally got around to messing with this thing. First off, it looks pretty nice! I am not upset by the quality at all. But it is rather expensive for a grant wheel (I think the wheel was $160, and the hub was $49 or so).
So on with the hub. Grant says they didnt' have a billet to fit a classic mustang, but some vendors sell one, so I decided to take a chance. It fits the diameter of the 68 column I have and the splines.
The only problem I noticed, was the horn contacts from the switch, the inner one, sometimes grazed the outer contact, causing the horn to sound. Maybe my column is out of round. Maybe it would change when I bolted it down. Who knows, but I decided to remove a bit of the copper material from the hub on the lathe. The inner contact still only makes a bit of contact with the inner copper ring, but it's enough. (Material removed shown as red line)
The horn, as you can see, is a self contained switch. I have never used another grant product, but this horn MUST be different than the ones everyone curses, because I don't see how this one could fall off, break, etc. The only thing is, on these cars (or at least mine with an ez-wire kit), is you must cut a contact on the switch so it doesn't ground.
I run a black leather Signature and have used a few other Grants. I've always liked the Grant wheels just fine. Bur their adapter kits have always been awful. Horn switches that don't work, won't stop working, or short right the heck out are endemic with the things. I've noticed they often seem "out of round" too, though I haven't used a billet version. Because of horn problems I finally just pulled the Grant off SWMBO' car and put her a stock wheel back on. For my '67 I had to combine parts from a couple of hub adapter kits before I got a satisfactory installation.
Did anybody read what i wrote? (Well, I know Gypsy did).
To reiterate, the cheaper grants must have a different horn setup (As I've been reading about foam pads, and silicone fixes, etc). This is a nice self contained momentary switch that mounts on the wheel.
The contacts are two rounds of copper, soldered with a wire that ends in 2 female quick connects (which in my case, when connected, trigger the horn).
Maybe the non billet adapter is different? But so far (I mean, without elaborate testing/use), I see no engineering problems on this adapter.
Until this thread I have ignored the billet adapters as being "bling". After looking at the pictures I've gotten a niggling thought that even though my adapter seems sorted out I still might be able to do better. Next time I reassemble my column (again) I'll be looking really hard at my adapter setup. Kind of hate to pay $50 for a nice piece of aluminum only to paint it black though.
Now that I think about it as well, I believe the part that touches the horn on the regular adapter might be the same piece that's bolted to the bottom of the regular adapter (A cast piece, with the 2 copper rings on it). What is the problem with the regular adapter (not the wheel/horn issue, but the adapter)?
Wondering if it's similar to why i had to take a small portion of mine off.
Had the same Grant on my FB for the first 6 years. Went on fine, never had a problem with it and sold it when I got my Lecarra for a good price.
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Color wouldn't matter to me as I'd want to paint one to match the column anyway.
Issues. Jeez, just the ones I've run into.
Can't tighten the adapter down enough. So the wheel was secure enough but wobbled and didn't feel secure.
The wobble causing the horn connectors to be damaged.
Horn connectors not connecting or shorting due to improper design. (I guess.)
Adapters being too short (depth) so that the adapter would rub the steering column tube.
Flimsy horn contacts that break after a couple of months even if the mess doesn't wobble. And manage to bridge the contacts so the horn blows constantly or cause a dead short which smokes something. (Yes, I've had both issues happen separately.)
Too big in diameter and rubbing the column tube.
Horn connectors incorrect if a car had cruise with no alternatives. In which case you'd know you'd be giving up the use of cruise beforehand but still would like to have a horn. (Not a vintage Mustang issue.)
Threads not deep enough or bolts too loo long to securely bolt their cheaper line of wheels to the adapters.
You getting the idea where I got the all the leftover/discarded adapter pieces for my car? I'm getting the idea I like doing stuff the hard way.
Avoid the cheap Grants that only have 3 bolts to hold the wheel to the aluminum adapter. a) the bolts never stay tight,
b) the bolts are just plain cap screws when they should have a flange AND a shoulder,
c) the horn ain't worth a popcorn fart.
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