I've been recharging my battery a lot because its been dying on me after a few starts or even just 1 start. I just had oreilly recharge it yesterday morning and sit overnight. I picked it up today and at 12.75 volts, its showing 86% as if the charge is decreasing. Is this normal Just asking because it doesn't seem right and the nickel and dime employees at autozone says its still a good battery. But dropping percentage of the charge doesn't seem right.
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Dave
2004 Nissan Titan Crew Cab
1966 Ford Mustang Original 289
Edelbrock RPM Performer Heads; bored .30 over
Weiand Stealth Intake, Holley 600 CFM Carb.
Comp Cam 268H 9.5:1 Speed Pro Pistons
Patriot Tri-Y Headers w/ 2.5" H Pipe, Flowmaster 40S
620 1" drop in front, CSRP Front Disk Brakes.
Ford 8 3.40 trac-loc rear end
Did O'Reilly actually put the battery on a tester? If not, you don't know if it's good. A car battery with multiple dead or dying cells will still put out 12 volts. But it won't have enough cranking amps to start a car.
You might have something on your car which is draining your battery. But the first step is to make sure you have a good battery. If O'Reilly won't test it, take it to Auto Zone. They use a very good, Bear battery tester and they'll test if for free.
Ok. Not sure if you clearly understood what I said but I had oreilly recharge it and sit overnight.
__________________
Dave
2004 Nissan Titan Crew Cab
1966 Ford Mustang Original 289
Edelbrock RPM Performer Heads; bored .30 over
Weiand Stealth Intake, Holley 600 CFM Carb.
Comp Cam 268H 9.5:1 Speed Pro Pistons
Patriot Tri-Y Headers w/ 2.5" H Pipe, Flowmaster 40S
620 1" drop in front, CSRP Front Disk Brakes.
Ford 8 3.40 trac-loc rear end
If it's losing charge not hooked up to anything... then it's a bad battery.
If it is hooked up, try hooking up a known good battery and see if the same drain happens, if yes, then you have something in the car draining it, if no, then it's the battery.
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Love me a Stang
68 coupe with a 351W and fmx
Mods: a lot... just ask if you're interested
07 gt
99 Gixxer 750 (When four wheels are too many)
Again in the first post, it says it was sitting at oreilly overnight so it's DEFINITELY not working. The moron at autozone wouldn't replace it even though it shows as being a good battery, 12.75 volts but with only 86% charged. I could start the car maybe 2-3 times and let sit for less than 3 min and it'll die.
__________________
Dave
2004 Nissan Titan Crew Cab
1966 Ford Mustang Original 289
Edelbrock RPM Performer Heads; bored .30 over
Weiand Stealth Intake, Holley 600 CFM Carb.
Comp Cam 268H 9.5:1 Speed Pro Pistons
Patriot Tri-Y Headers w/ 2.5" H Pipe, Flowmaster 40S
620 1" drop in front, CSRP Front Disk Brakes.
Ford 8 3.40 trac-loc rear end
Sounds like you've got your mind made up as to the cause. Not sure how else we can help. Next step is to buy a new battery.
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1966 Mustang Convertible - T Code - vintage burgundy / black pony interior
1966 Mustang Coupe - C Code - currently red / black standard interior (going back to original dark moss green / ivy gold and white pony interior)
Just trying to find someone who knows a bit about electrical. I really SHOULDN'T have to buy a new battery since it has a 3 yr warranty and autozone refuses to exchange it. Push comes to shove, I'll just get one of those Kirkland brands
You can tell I'm blowing some steam off, but not directing towards you guys. Just how I spent $120 on a battery that's dying a lot and autozone won't do **** about. No offense guys! Even oreilly agrees with me it's a bad battery even though it indicates as being good.
__________________
Dave
2004 Nissan Titan Crew Cab
1966 Ford Mustang Original 289
Edelbrock RPM Performer Heads; bored .30 over
Weiand Stealth Intake, Holley 600 CFM Carb.
Comp Cam 268H 9.5:1 Speed Pro Pistons
Patriot Tri-Y Headers w/ 2.5" H Pipe, Flowmaster 40S
620 1" drop in front, CSRP Front Disk Brakes.
Ford 8 3.40 trac-loc rear end
GO RAIDERS!
Last edited by sdmustangrider; 01-18-2013 at 01:13 PM.
There is a logical procedure to determine this problem. Its, more or less, the same for all cars.
1) IF the car will start and run, put a volt meter across the battery terminals WHILE ITS RUNNING. It should show 14+ volts running. If not, strong possibility of an under performing alternator.
2) With the engine running and volt meter on the battery terminals, turn on headlights, radio, and other electric stuff. It should drop voltage a little, but not over 1 volt. If it does drop 1+ volts, see alternator: above.
3) If running voltage passes the above procedure, replace battery.
4) If you have a new battery and a good alternator, and the battery still drains down overnight, then you have a phantom ground somewhere. Below is the procedure to find a phantom ground.
A) With a charged battery, and the engine NOT running and all switched electric stuff turned off, take the NEG. battery cable off. Put a volt meter, set on millivolts, between the NEG cable and the NEG battery terminal. If the voltmeter shows any voltage drop at all, you have a phantom ground.
B) If you're showing a voltage drop as outlined above, with someone watching the voltmeter still between the cable and terminal, pull each fuse out of the fuse block, one at a time, and watch for the voltage drop to go away.
C) The fuse that, once pulled, makes the voltage drop go away, is the fuse for the phantom ground circuit. Something, somewhere, on that circuit is grounding. This is the hard part. You will need a electric schematic and the ability to read the schematic and follow wires until you find the problem. It could be a bare wire, or a worn out switch, or something else.
Nice write up. Thanks! But as for the battery disconnected and fully charge, what can you tell me?
I'll save that. Thanks.
__________________
Dave
2004 Nissan Titan Crew Cab
1966 Ford Mustang Original 289
Edelbrock RPM Performer Heads; bored .30 over
Weiand Stealth Intake, Holley 600 CFM Carb.
Comp Cam 268H 9.5:1 Speed Pro Pistons
Patriot Tri-Y Headers w/ 2.5" H Pipe, Flowmaster 40S
620 1" drop in front, CSRP Front Disk Brakes.
Ford 8 3.40 trac-loc rear end
Can u take it to a different autozone store? There a quite a few in my area. Make sure its charged, and bring it in for load testing. They typically do this with the battery in the car.
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1968 C Code Coupe - Getting a 289 and AOD - ON HOLD
1968 C Code Fastback - Getting a 351W and Tremec TKO 5 Speed - WORK IN PROGRESS!
If the battery dies after being charged, and its not in the car, then only thing possible is the battery is bad. I'd still go through the above procedure. A good, new battery could have its life seriously shortened by one of the problems listed above.
Yea I'll try to go to another autozone. I'll try to do the testing also. I did send a message to the regional manager so MAYBE that helps too. Thanks guys! I know I went through 3 months of hell with a bad ground in my car where it smoked my alternator and my ground/positive wires to the battery.
__________________
Dave
2004 Nissan Titan Crew Cab
1966 Ford Mustang Original 289
Edelbrock RPM Performer Heads; bored .30 over
Weiand Stealth Intake, Holley 600 CFM Carb.
Comp Cam 268H 9.5:1 Speed Pro Pistons
Patriot Tri-Y Headers w/ 2.5" H Pipe, Flowmaster 40S
620 1" drop in front, CSRP Front Disk Brakes.
Ford 8 3.40 trac-loc rear end
Nice write up. Thanks! But as for the battery disconnected and fully charge, what can you tell me?
I'll save that. Thanks.
A healthy lead-acid battery will self discharge at no more than 1% per day. If you paid that much for a 24F, I think it is too much. Check with Broding's Battery Warehouse in La Mesa (I think). They carry a NicaLite battery that has the end tabs that work with the original battery tray and clamp. I think the last one cost me less than $60 with a core. They do not do installs; just will sell you the battery. Nice folks, family run company. 619-463-9812. Good Luck.
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SWMBO's '66 Coupe 289, 2-V, C-4(Pony Interior, Rally Pac, A/C & Tiffany Stripe) & An absolutely rust free '65 289-2V C-4 coupe project now UPGRADED to about 93.891% complete. Only a few more years.
Oh Nice! Thanks GP!! Hey, I gotta PM you by the way on that guy who can change out the windshield without cracking it. I asked you maybe a couple years ago or so and said SAFELITE said it would crack if they took it off..
__________________
Dave
2004 Nissan Titan Crew Cab
1966 Ford Mustang Original 289
Edelbrock RPM Performer Heads; bored .30 over
Weiand Stealth Intake, Holley 600 CFM Carb.
Comp Cam 268H 9.5:1 Speed Pro Pistons
Patriot Tri-Y Headers w/ 2.5" H Pipe, Flowmaster 40S
620 1" drop in front, CSRP Front Disk Brakes.
Ford 8 3.40 trac-loc rear end
Sounds like they just didn't want to fool with it. I've pulled mine out all by myself and reinstalled it a couple of times. Many others here have successfully pulled their windshields too. You'd think any professional glass shop wouldn't have a problem.
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