tips to loosen door strike posts needed - Page 2 - Vintage Mustang Forums
Vintage Mustang Forum
HomeForumGalleryClassifiedsAbout UsAdvertiseContact Us
» Auto Insurance
» Featured Product
Go Back   Vintage Mustang Forums > General Discussion > Vintage Mustang Forum
Vintage-Mustang.com is the premier Ford Mustang Forum on the internet. Registered Users do not see the above ads.
Reply
 
Thread Tools
Old 01-21-2013, 10:18 AM   #16 (permalink)
Supporting Member
Senior Member
 
Join Date: Sep 2006
Location: SE Wisconsin
Posts: 14,599
Default

The ones on my 68 are definitely Pozidriv. Ordered some Pozidriv bits from McMaster this morning. Problem is looks like if availible a #4 would be just right. Tried Google, Amazon and of course McMaster and the biggest I could find is #3.

Anyone know where to get a #4 Pozidriv bit? Yes it's spelled Pozidriv.
I also have tried the tapping on the wrench trick on stubborn screws...it's amazing what impact does...even doe that with wheel nuts that were over tightened!


Slim
__________________


My '64 1/2 vert. Ordered May '64. D code 4 speed, handling package, caspian blue, accent group, Ford blue manual top.

'68 vert. driver. Owned since '77. C code AT, AC, PS, P disc B, PT lime gold, standard black interior and top. NOS RF fender and left quarter.New top and folding glass.
slim is offline   Reply With Quote
Sponsored Links
Advertisement
 
Old 01-21-2013, 11:00 AM   #17 (permalink)
Senior Member
 
Join Date: Aug 2006
Location: palmdale
Posts: 4,108
Default

roll down quarter window , spray some aerokroil or wd-40 ,etc on backside of bolt
then give it a good whack with hammer like others said .
__________________
1966 convert



click here for more pics
http://s147.photobucket.com/home/mikemstang66/index
mikemstang66 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 01-21-2013, 11:58 AM   #18 (permalink)
Supporting Member
Senior Member
 
Join Date: Mar 2001
Location: Grayson, GA (Atlanta)
Posts: 3,836
Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by mikemstang66 View Post
roll down quarter window , spray some aerokroil or wd-40 ,etc on backside of bolt
then give it a good whack with hammer like others said .

+1
I used Liquid Wrench on my worst one. Soak a day, hit a couple of times, soak, sit a day and repeat. Took about 3 days to break loose. Like others said, I did not bang very hard...took my time.
__________________

68 GT Vert - J Code (1st car I ever drove in '73, dad bought it in '71)
67 C Code Vert Sports Sprint (1st car I ever bought in '75)
06 Vista Blue with Pony Package (1st Mustang I ever bought new)
MCA #49294 Grayson, GA (Atlanta)
daves67ss is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 01-21-2013, 12:19 PM   #19 (permalink)
Supporting Member
Senior Member
 
Join Date: Sep 2006
Location: SE Wisconsin
Posts: 14,599
Default

A fellow in another country mentioned Pozidrive screws. Just reminding you of the design and the reason.

Phillips screws and the screw driver have ramped slot and driver blade. This is to limit torque and cause the driver to jump out rather than risk twisting the head off.

Posidriv has a similar cross shape but the slots and the driver aren't ramped. Torque doesn't cause the driver to ramp/jump out.

Many fasteners began using Torks drive in the 70s for same reason as pozidriv.

When the Posidriv bits arrive I'll try the wrench and tap on the handle end technique...the impact/torque.


Slim
__________________


My '64 1/2 vert. Ordered May '64. D code 4 speed, handling package, caspian blue, accent group, Ford blue manual top.

'68 vert. driver. Owned since '77. C code AT, AC, PS, P disc B, PT lime gold, standard black interior and top. NOS RF fender and left quarter.New top and folding glass.
slim is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 01-21-2013, 02:01 PM   #20 (permalink)
Senior Member
 
Renegade600's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jun 2008
Location: Mosinee, WI
Posts: 1,087
Default

I never was able to get mine loose when I did my car. I was only going to take them out to paint under them, so they really did not need to come out.....I went and got some actual Impact sockets with screwdriver ends, big ones, and tryed to knock them out with my air impact.... no go... so I left them on rather than messing the heads up....

I really bugged me as these were the only (2) items that I did not remove from the car during the build....
__________________


'69 Coupe, Built 306, 4-Speed, Matte Black..... Old School RestoMod...Coming Attractions: 408 Stroker...
'90 Mustang LX, Built 306, 5-speed, cage, Screaming Yellow....3/14/12 Currently Getting TWIN TURBOS (always a change to make).....
1938 Cough,cough, Chev. 1/2 ton Owner built "Street Gasser" truck..327, 461X, Hillborn...old school all the way...
A Custom HD RoadKing...and too many Vintage Sleds to count...
Renegade600 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 01-22-2013, 03:06 PM   #21 (permalink)
Supporting Member
Senior Member
 
Join Date: Sep 2006
Location: SE Wisconsin
Posts: 14,599
Default

I ordered some pozidriv #4 bits due here Thursday (1/24) nite. Let you know Friday how they work (yike! The proper tool for the 68!).


Slim
__________________


My '64 1/2 vert. Ordered May '64. D code 4 speed, handling package, caspian blue, accent group, Ford blue manual top.

'68 vert. driver. Owned since '77. C code AT, AC, PS, P disc B, PT lime gold, standard black interior and top. NOS RF fender and left quarter.New top and folding glass.
slim is offline   Reply With Quote
Sponsored Links
Advertisement
 
Reply

Thread Tools

Posting Rules
You may not post new threads
You may not post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is On
Trackbacks are On
Pingbacks are On
Refbacks are Off


Powered by vBadvanced CMPS v3.2.2

All times are GMT -4. The time now is 11:54 PM.


Powered by vBulletin® Copyright ©2000 - 2013, Jelsoft Enterprises Ltd.
SEO by vBSEO 3.3.2 ©2009, Crawlability, Inc.