The ones on my 68 are definitely Pozidriv. Ordered some Pozidriv bits from McMaster this morning. Problem is looks like if availible a #4 would be just right. Tried Google, Amazon and of course McMaster and the biggest I could find is #3.
Anyone know where to get a #4 Pozidriv bit? Yes it's spelled Pozidriv.
I also have tried the tapping on the wrench trick on stubborn screws...it's amazing what impact does...even doe that with wheel nuts that were over tightened!
Slim
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My '64 1/2 vert. Ordered May '64. D code 4 speed, handling package, caspian blue, accent group, Ford blue manual top.
'68 vert. driver. Owned since '77. C code AT, AC, PS, P disc B, PT lime gold, standard black interior and top. NOS RF fender and left quarter.New top and folding glass.
roll down quarter window , spray some aerokroil or wd-40 ,etc on backside of bolt
then give it a good whack with hammer like others said .
+1
I used Liquid Wrench on my worst one. Soak a day, hit a couple of times, soak, sit a day and repeat. Took about 3 days to break loose. Like others said, I did not bang very hard...took my time.
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68 GT Vert - J Code (1st car I ever drove in '73, dad bought it in '71)
67 C Code Vert Sports Sprint (1st car I ever bought in '75)
06 Vista Blue with Pony Package (1st Mustang I ever bought new)
MCA #49294 Grayson, GA (Atlanta)
A fellow in another country mentioned Pozidrive screws. Just reminding you of the design and the reason.
Phillips screws and the screw driver have ramped slot and driver blade. This is to limit torque and cause the driver to jump out rather than risk twisting the head off.
Posidriv has a similar cross shape but the slots and the driver aren't ramped. Torque doesn't cause the driver to ramp/jump out.
Many fasteners began using Torks drive in the 70s for same reason as pozidriv.
When the Posidriv bits arrive I'll try the wrench and tap on the handle end technique...the impact/torque.
Slim
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My '64 1/2 vert. Ordered May '64. D code 4 speed, handling package, caspian blue, accent group, Ford blue manual top.
'68 vert. driver. Owned since '77. C code AT, AC, PS, P disc B, PT lime gold, standard black interior and top. NOS RF fender and left quarter.New top and folding glass.
I never was able to get mine loose when I did my car. I was only going to take them out to paint under them, so they really did not need to come out.....I went and got some actual Impact sockets with screwdriver ends, big ones, and tryed to knock them out with my air impact.... no go... so I left them on rather than messing the heads up....
I really bugged me as these were the only (2) items that I did not remove from the car during the build....
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'69 Coupe, Built 306, 4-Speed, Matte Black..... Old School RestoMod...Coming Attractions: 408 Stroker...
'90 Mustang LX, Built 306, 5-speed, cage, Screaming Yellow....3/14/12 Currently Getting TWIN TURBOS (always a change to make).....
1938 Cough,cough, Chev. 1/2 ton Owner built "Street Gasser" truck..327, 461X, Hillborn...old school all the way...
A Custom HD RoadKing...and too many Vintage Sleds to count...
I ordered some pozidriv #4 bits due here Thursday (1/24) nite. Let you know Friday how they work (yike! The proper tool for the 68!).
Slim
__________________
My '64 1/2 vert. Ordered May '64. D code 4 speed, handling package, caspian blue, accent group, Ford blue manual top.
'68 vert. driver. Owned since '77. C code AT, AC, PS, P disc B, PT lime gold, standard black interior and top. NOS RF fender and left quarter.New top and folding glass.
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