I had my car media blasted then epoxy primed. I currently have the whole trunk area removed and part of the floor. There is obvious rust between the sheet metal flanges that I will clean and spray weld through primer before reassembling. Some of the braces I removed had quite a bit of rust behind them as seen in the picture. My concern is all the rust in the areas between flanges I won't be removing. I know must are impossible to get to. Would it be worth it to try to spray or pour something like Rust Mort into seems that are exposed. Anyone have any tips or tricks?
You have a large, angle grinder, right? If not, you're going to need one to grind down the spot welds anyway.
Get a sanding disc pad for your large angle grinder. You can get one at Lowe's, Home Depot or online.
The sanding disc will remove that rust almost instantly. Just be careful. You don't want to remove too much metal and it's easy to do so with a sanding disc.
For tight, corner areas, use a small, air powered angle grinder with a sanding disc.
I'm guessing he's referring to the rust between the steel at the spot welded joints, that are still together.
Slim
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My '64 1/2 vert. Ordered May '64. D code 4 speed, handling package, caspian blue, accent group, Ford blue manual top.
'68 vert. driver. Owned since '77. C code AT, AC, PS, P disc B, PT lime gold, standard black interior and top. NOS RF fender and left quarter.New top and folding glass.
Exactly Slim. The pieces that are already together. I assume they will just keep rusting in between the seams. That why Im wondering, if anyone drips or sprays a rust neutralizing liquid in between those seems to stop or slow the rust. Obvious, some seams are tighter than others. But it appears I could definitely drip thin fluid into the seems to coat. I need a product that I can apply but doesn't need to be rinsed or coated afterwards.
I actually just spoke with SEM about rust mort. Unfortunately it's product needs to be thoroughly rinsed and sealed afterwards. He said SEM rust sealer may work but its not recommended for bare metal because it may eat away at it. Unfortunately, some seams appear to be rusted while others look good. I will need a product that will seal the rust and not harm clean metal, and will not need rinsing.
Many of us have heard for years...rust is like cancer, you have to get it all. Here's some of my opinion. If there is an exposed active metal...that would be iron, aluminum, magnesium, silver that metal plus O2 forms an oxide, with iron or steel we call it rust. Moisture and salts promote/speed up the oxidation.
Unlike the cancer analogy with an active metal the only way to eliminate the cancer possibility is to eliminate the metal!
There's a whole technology on means to reduce corrosion on active metals. Sacrificial (anode) material is often used. Galvanizing steel is very effective. The zinc galvanicily protects the steel. A coating like epoxy sometimes concentrates the corrosion is one area and accelerates failure!
IMO sealing off the source of the corrosion is a good idea. Keep in mind these are unit bodies. If most of the flange welds fail the body loses it's strength. It's not IMO that's the big deal, it's the strength of the structure.
Slim
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My '64 1/2 vert. Ordered May '64. D code 4 speed, handling package, caspian blue, accent group, Ford blue manual top.
'68 vert. driver. Owned since '77. C code AT, AC, PS, P disc B, PT lime gold, standard black interior and top. NOS RF fender and left quarter.New top and folding glass.
My brother is a panel beater and he told me that if the navy can stop a ship rusting in salt water they are doing something right, you may enjoy this light reading and maybe if the staff at the navy are not too busy or if you have some friends in the navy you could ask them for an opinion. http://www.centurycorrosion.com/products/mil-11.pdf
Try your local PPG dealer and ask for a product called Rust Raider. It is a liquid and will do as good as anything seeping into those areas. It will take a couple of applications and wipe off any excess ight away. Good stuff
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