fiberglass selv-leveling stuff for filling holes...
Cannot remember the name of the stuff. Wanna use it on my drip rails to fill in the holes...
Think Bart mentioned the name and brand...
__________________
Steven
Hickory, NC
1966 Coupe
Replaced
Full floor pan
Firewall
Full cowl
Radiator support
Up next:
Shelby drop, 4 wheel drum to disc conversion, rebuild front suspension/steering, taillight panel, trunk floor,302 and AOD upgrade, wiring harnesses back in, and hopefully only patch panels on the quarters
E=MChuck Norris
Are you referring to filling weld holes and the seam?
Not fiberglass, but brushable seam sealer or drip-check seam sealer.
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1995 GT convertible - Laser Red
1995 GT convertible - Black (Son's ride)
1966 GT Fastback under restoration- Code T Red
with White LeMans stripes.
Are you referring to filling weld holes and the seam?
Not fiberglass, but brushable seam sealer or drip-check seam sealer.
No, rust pot holes that were covered with about(I kid you not) 1/4" of bondo...
The stuff I am talking about is definitely fiberglass based.
__________________
Steven
Hickory, NC
1966 Coupe
Replaced
Full floor pan
Firewall
Full cowl
Radiator support
Up next:
Shelby drop, 4 wheel drum to disc conversion, rebuild front suspension/steering, taillight panel, trunk floor,302 and AOD upgrade, wiring harnesses back in, and hopefully only patch panels on the quarters
E=MChuck Norris
Replaced
Full floor pan
Firewall
Full cowl
Radiator support
Up next:
Shelby drop, 4 wheel drum to disc conversion, rebuild front suspension/steering, taillight panel, trunk floor,302 and AOD upgrade, wiring harnesses back in, and hopefully only patch panels on the quarters
E=MChuck Norris
Maybe what you're thinking about is Fiber-All- it is fiber based (like waterproof bondo) and would work well- BUT its not self leveling; in fact you must start working before its cured 100% or you'll play hell cutting it down. (I would use this on the sides of the roof to seal everything up nice) Then use the self leveling seam sealer (like brush on but more watery-it will flow nicely into the drip rail and make it all nice and pretty like it was when new) Fiber all is a good product- use it like bondo but in place that might possibly get wet (like inside a wheelhouse, etc) or that have holes that you can't weld up (like where some of your pinholes were)
__________________
1966 Mustang Convertible - T Code - vintage burgundy / black pony interior
1966 Mustang Coupe - C Code - currently red / black standard interior (going back to original dark moss green / ivy gold and white pony interior)
Maybe what you're thinking about is Fiber-All- it is fiber based (like waterproof bondo) and would work well- BUT its not self leveling; in fact you must start working before its cured 100% or you'll play hell cutting it down. (I would use this on the sides of the roof to seal everything up nice) Then use the self leveling seam sealer (like brush on but more watery-it will flow nicely into the drip rail and make it all nice and pretty like it was when new) Fiber all is a good product- use it like bondo but in place that might possibly get wet (like inside a wheelhouse, etc) or that have holes that you can't weld up (like where some of your pinholes were)
That is the stuff you told me about for the roof rails, right?
__________________
Steven
Hickory, NC
1966 Coupe
Replaced
Full floor pan
Firewall
Full cowl
Radiator support
Up next:
Shelby drop, 4 wheel drum to disc conversion, rebuild front suspension/steering, taillight panel, trunk floor,302 and AOD upgrade, wiring harnesses back in, and hopefully only patch panels on the quarters
E=MChuck Norris
Where would I get the product Fiber-All from David?
__________________
Steven
Hickory, NC
1966 Coupe
Replaced
Full floor pan
Firewall
Full cowl
Radiator support
Up next:
Shelby drop, 4 wheel drum to disc conversion, rebuild front suspension/steering, taillight panel, trunk floor,302 and AOD upgrade, wiring harnesses back in, and hopefully only patch panels on the quarters
E=MChuck Norris
Auto body store has it. I might have enough for you cause there is a special "gun" that is extra. HAve you found an autobody store in Hickory yet? You need to- and make friends with them asap. You're gonna spend thousands there! Yes, thousand(s) Everything from sandpaper, to tape, to primer, wash thinner, paint, the list goes on and on. (remember me mentioning about sandpaper- and not to go out and buy it yet? you will see why when you price it, and you'll need various sizes, and various shapes and runs from 30-70 PER ROLL of the good stuff). If they are not cool, I will use my autobody connection- I will tell you who to ask for. My dude met me on Saturday when we sprayed the vert to get extra clear
I use Kitty Hair fiberglass filler for small diddly stuff. But it is not self leveling, you'll need to sand it..+ its incredibly strong and water proof....
David, you think that will work on the areas around my rear glass channels?
__________________
Steven
Hickory, NC
1966 Coupe
Replaced
Full floor pan
Firewall
Full cowl
Radiator support
Up next:
Shelby drop, 4 wheel drum to disc conversion, rebuild front suspension/steering, taillight panel, trunk floor,302 and AOD upgrade, wiring harnesses back in, and hopefully only patch panels on the quarters
E=MChuck Norris
Thats the self leveling stuff right there. Be aware that uses a special gun that is around 90 bucks- George might have the gun though. Kitty hair is another version of the Fiberall. It should work very well for the window channel if you cannot cut/weld the rust. It won't soak up water- so should be a nice product to use.
If george doesn't have the gun- the autobody store will let me borrow one (but the deal w/that is- if you get one drop of sealer on it- you just bought it) If you bring it back and they can't tell you used it you're good.
David, you think that will work on the areas around my rear glass channels?
Are these rust areas rusted all the way through leaving an open hole? Or just deep pits?
If you have an open hole, filling with a filler of any kind will not last long. If you don't have access to a welder, the only option I can think of is carefully formed repair patches and body panel bonding adhesive. Then smooth over with Dynaglass after a good coat of epoxy primer.
__________________
1995 GT convertible - Laser Red
1995 GT convertible - Black (Son's ride)
1966 GT Fastback under restoration- Code T Red
with White LeMans stripes.
He's got a welder, its just pinholes- but lots, and lots. In all kind of horrible places (this is coming from someone who hates rust, and thinks the only good solution is to cut it out) in areas that would be very challenging (ok maybe not for Rusty428) and did I say widespread? The metal is clean on all sides as we blasted this car until it is operating room clean, then epoxied to prevent return, we talked about cutting/welding but theres soooo much. I am busy on a build of my own, but can help him occasionally, but even the body guy that looked at it said he thought it be ok if we used waterproof filler (metal/fiberglass) No rust is structural its just widespread, and mainly pinholes here and there. I don't think welding up the holes is a viable option (too many and in thin metal places) Honestly if we hadn't put a full floor, cowl, and firewall in first- I would recommend a donor body.
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