I also got the branda vacum/steel hood at ford carlise last year.- we did have to put wooden blocks between it and the aprons,and tweak the shape(low along the middle of the fenders) I block sanded it with the expensive primer/sealers several times getting out low spots. It also took a thin shim on the back hinges to get it level with the cowl. All in all, I am very happy with it after the paint job. Most fiberglass hoods need alot of prep and tweaking. That is what it takes to make it look good when painted. Start with the best hood you can buy and trial fit it before any prep work.
If you can get your hands on one either before you pick it up or upon receipt before the shipper leaves and check all around the perimeter. Mine had NOTHING backing up the gelcoat along the right front on the underside reveal along the front edge. I was able to poke my finger through a section about 18" long, that I'll have to open up and fill with short strand fiberglass to repair it.
I bought one of the Mustangs Plus purple gel coat hoods since it came highly recommended. It still took 30-40 hours to make halfway right. After I painted it, I see where I could have spent another 10 hours on it.
One major area that need work on any hood is the rear edge. The back is thick and a steel hood I'd thin. When you raise the hood, the back will bind unless you bevel the edge, or put an extremely wide gap in the back against the cowl.
1995 GT convertible - Laser Red
1995 GT convertible - Black (Son's ride)
1966 GT Fastback under restoration- Code T Red
with White LeMans stripes.
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