Rhythmic thrumming vibration at 50-55+ mph

[VANILLA_GORILLA]

Originally Posted by ToneMT

If you dont have a press/vise - remove the drivetrain and bring it to a local garage - much cheaper for them to stick on the correct U-Joint and you do the labor...

How much do u think they should they charge to put in new u joints if I brought them the driveshaft and the parts?

[tom991]

Double the cost of the U-Joint if you bought it from a local parts place and a hour labor charge (about $135 for labor). You'll have to ask what their labor rate is. I've done it in 15 minutes with the right tools and equipment and the drive shaft out of the vehicle but usually the charge is minumum one hour labor. If they go by the charge book that might include removing the drive shaft from the car. You may be able to negotiate if they go by the book since they don't have to put the drive shaft back in the car. You'll have to ask a couple shops. I'd stay away from the dealer. Ask for MOOG or other name brand parts. Spay some PB Blaster around the edges of the caps and let it sit overnight before taking the drive shaft to the shop.

I saw a sign in a garage once that illustrated: "You wouldn't bring your own eggs to a resturant and ask them to cook them for you. It's the same with car parts."

[ToneMT]

matters on the garage - I live in a small town and folks are good to each other around here...example: had a hard time pulling off the PS pulley - so went down to the local garage and ...pow... off if went (free)....had hard time pressing it back....went back to the shop... and on the pulley went...(free).... so it matters if you have a good shop you normally take your business to that does favors for you....I'd call around. Times are tight and folks are generally understanding I find...

[pdc67stang]

Can't say for sure what your issue is, but when I had the same vibration at that speed range, I replaced the motor and trans mounts. All were bad. After the change, the vibration went away.

[lemonshindig]

Originally Posted by ToneMT

If you dont have a press/vise - remove the drivetrain and bring it to a local garage

Pull the whole drive train! Throw it in the pickup and haul it to the shop!



But really, it sounds like U-joints to me. I *thought* the old u-joints were all u-bolts that could be removed and replaced with nothing more than 1/2" wrench.

-Matt

[66candy]

I would start with changing the transmount.

[horsehead]

If you say there's a good clunk when you put the car in reverse from park after checking the U-joints and mounts I'd start looking at the rear third member next.

[VANILLA_GORILLA]

Thanks for the help guys

[VANILLA_GORILLA]

Originally Posted by tom991

Double the cost of the U-Joint if you bought it from a local parts place and a hour labor charge (about $135 for labor). You'll have to ask what their labor rate is. I've done it in 15 minutes with the right tools and equipment and the drive shaft out of the vehicle but usually the charge is minumum one hour labor. If they go by the charge book that might include removing the drive shaft from the car. You may be able to negotiate if they go by the book since they don't have to put the drive shaft back in the car. You'll have to ask a couple shops. I'd stay away from the dealer. Ask for MOOG or other name brand parts. Spay some PB Blaster around the edges of the caps and let it sit overnight before taking the drive shaft to the shop.

I saw a sign in a garage once that illustrated: "You wouldn't bring your own eggs to a resturant and ask them to cook them for you. It's the same with car parts."

I think I'd rather just get the parts myself and do the job in my garage. I've been needing to buy a bench vise anyway and that $100 for a bench vise vs. $100 in labor costs sounds better to me. Doesnt sound that difficult to do, I mean, i've done everything else myself (carb rebuild/fluids/plugs/pertronix/wires/front and rear suspension/A-arm drop/motor mount, etc). I feel fairly confident myself and my buds can get it done with an afternoon and a case of beer.

[ToneMT]

Originally Posted by lemonshindig

Pull the whole drive train! Throw it in the pickup and haul it to the shop!



But really, it sounds like U-joints to me. I *thought* the old u-joints were all u-bolts that could be removed and replaced with nothing more than 1/2" wrench.

-Matt

ha - driveshaft... thanks Mat...

[VANILLA_GORILLA]

I just went out and moved the car to wash her and the "clunk" is more like a "thud" type jolt when you go from park to reverse. But that doesnt occur going from reverse to drive. Only park to reverse. Also, I noticed the same rhythmic thrumming vibration with the car in park and just holding the engine at a certain rpm, I believe the same rpm it would be at cruising around 50+ mph (I have no tach to be certain). The vibration is less this way, but its the same kind of rhythmic thrumming vibration I was describing. What would cause this if not Ujoint? Bad trans mount??

[putz]

Your clunk is more likely trans or motor mount or ujoint you could have two diff problems. One the noise and then the viberation

[VANILLA_GORILLA]

I have a plan of attack now- Change transmission mount and engine mount on passenger side (easiest to do first). Check to see if problem resolved. If not, change U joints (or change u joints anyway, they probably need to be changed anyway).

[GA65GT]

I would raise the car and remove the dust cover. Then worm up the car. Get a timing and flash the flywheel while running. It's easier to see on a GM vehicle. The timming light makes it easier on Fords since the ford dust plate is setup different. A warped flexplate/flywheel will usually be more noticable around 2000 to 3000 RPM.

[Fullbasement]

I've never bothered to put them in a bench vice. You can do it on the floor with a BFH and a couple pieces of wood for support for removal and a large c-clamp for installation.