I have this rhythmic thrumming vibration driving past 50-55 mph. You can feel it in the steering wheel and, well, the entire car. Seems to go away when I let off the gas and come back when I get back on the gas. Any ideas?
Edit/Update: I just moved the car to wash her and the same rhythmic thrumming vibration (though slightly less felt) can be felt with the car in park and holding the engine to a certain rpm (feels about the same rpm as cruising at 50+ mph). I have no tach, so I cant be sure. This is with the car in park and not moving at all, so the driveshaft wouldnt be spinning. Any ideas now?
BTW, I'm not sure how the trans mount looks, and recently I changed the drivers side motor mount because it broke, but did not change the passenger side motor mount. The passenger side motor mount and trans mount are original to the car. The vibration was being felt prior to and after changing the motor mount...
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1968 289 Coupe "Sally"
2002 GT Vert "Sasha"
Last edited by VANILLA_GORILLA; 01-26-2013 at 09:05 AM.
Drive train. If the u joints aren't new, go ahead and replace them. If it still persist after that, check the drive shaft angle at the rear end and at the transmission. They should be equal and opposite.
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A ship in harbor is safe, but that is not what ships are built for.
Did this start recently? If so have you replaced or changed something in the drive train (including wheels or tires).
Slim
Didn't seem like this problem arose until after I got the car back from a tranny fluid drain and refill but that doesn't seem like it would cause the problem.
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1968 289 Coupe "Sally"
2002 GT Vert "Sasha"
The old wheels have been on and off the car several times with no regard as to what order they went back on. However I just got new wheels and tires and the vibration is still there.
There's also a good clunk when I put the car in reverse from park if that matters.
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1968 289 Coupe "Sally"
2002 GT Vert "Sasha"
If you dont have a press/vise - remove the drivetrain and bring it to a local garage - much cheaper for them to stick on the correct U-Joint and you do the labor...
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