Everything seems pretty straight forward, but have a couple head scratchers.
The OD of the axle tube is a little bigger than the stock 8". haven't measured but it looks like an 1/8" bigger. Has anyone else run into this? What did you do for u-bolts and shock plates?
What should i do for the little brake line mounts/clips? They were welded on the 8". Should i drill and use self-tappers to mount clips and distribution block?
i got the rear disc brakes he sells with the axle. Anyone ever go this route. What did you use for emergency brake cables?
The original 8" tubes were tapered. The one in ebay aren't. You'll need new U bolts and the bottom plates. The ebay one doesn't include axles. You'll need to buy stock length 31 spline axles and the appropriate bearings. New rear axle brake lines too.
Parking brake cables depends on your rear brake choice. I'd suggest large stock style drum rear brakes, like from Currie. Your stock parking brake cables should work with drum brakes. If you go rear disc (no good reason to), you'll most likely need custom cables. Probably bigger master cylinder too.
Oh, I forgot to mention universal joints. The ebay diffy doesn't specify universal joint size. If its bigger than your old one, you'll need to do something about that too.
Last edited by Bucket Lister; 01-28-2013 at 12:43 PM.
Just for those who read this thread (and not to hijack)... but I think one is better off having a local shop build the 9"... grabbing the case from a pick-n-pull then having the shop cut the tubes from the correct 8" rear and welding them on the 9" allows us to reuse or original axles, brake line tabs and everything else.... I did this and with having it powder coated, I think I was in it like 400-500 with posi 350's... I could be wrong about pricing.. been a few years since I did mine... but it would be work looking into b/4 buying something that requires a bunch of other 'stuff' to make it work... all my normal ’66 Mustang 5 lug parts installed perfectly on the 9” inlcuding axles, u-bolts, shock plates, brakes, brake lines and vent tube, EVERYTHING!
JMHO
__________________ 1966 Mustang GT RestoMod Project: 307c.i.d.,Holly 600 4brrl, TrickFlow Heads, Power Disc Brakes, Integral Power & Tilt Steering, AOD, 9" 3.50 posi rear end & a bunch of other stuff.
Project start date 1999. Completion date... fagidaboudit!
The original 8" tubes were tapered. The one in ebay aren't. You'll need new U bolts and the bottom plates. The ebay one doesn't include axles. You'll need to buy stock length 31 spline axles and the appropriate bearings. New rear axle brake lines too.
Parking brake cables depends on your rear brake choice. I'd suggest large stock style drum rear brakes, like from Currie. Your stock parking brake cables should work with drum brakes. If you go rear disc (no good reason to), you'll most likely need custom cables. Probably bigger master cylinder too.
Oh, I forgot to mention universal joints. The ebay diffy doesn't specify universal joint size. If its bigger than your old one, you'll need to do something about that too.
It came with axles an bearings and all that. Already got the rear discs and I'm just going to run a pv using the stock 67 power brake booster and MC.
Does anyone make shocks plates for wider ubolts when using an untapered axle housing? There isnt much meet on the old ones so I dont want to hog out the holes.
Just for those who read this thread (and not to hijack)... but I think one is better off having a local shop build the 9"... grabbing the case from a pick-n-pull then having the shop cut the tubes from the correct 8" rear and welding them on the 9" allows us to reuse or original axles, brake line tabs and everything else.... I did this and with having it powder coated, I think I was in it like 400-500 with posi 350's... I could be wrong about pricing.. been a few years since I did mine... but it would be work looking into b/4 buying something that requires a bunch of other 'stuff' to make it work... all my normal ’66 Mustang 5 lug parts installed perfectly on the 9” inlcuding axles, u-bolts, shock plates, brakes, brake lines and vent tube, EVERYTHING!
JMHO
Just to clarify. I am not complaining about my purchase not being complete or not being an easy bolt in. I 100% expected these kind of issues to crop up and compared to the amount of problems and fabrication I have had to do with all of the aftermarket sheetmetal I have already done, these issues are a piece of cake. With that said, I am very happy with my purchase. It was about a grand or more cheaper than going with a turnkey package from places like the 9 inch factory and that is what shaped my decision. If you want a NEW unit, the performance/$ is hard to beat.
I can fabb up new plates, but wanted to get the input of the community to explore my options.
I bought this setup for my 65. It required 3inch U blots. I also upgraded to the larger UJ for the driveshaft.
I went for the disc conversion too (mine is a big bearing 9in) THe rear disc setup is a GM caliper. Only issue I ran into was they are a pain to bleed and I think a slightly larger bore master cylinder would provide much better pedal feel especially with power brakes.
If you have more questions let me know...you can PM me. overall build quality of the center section is great. I have a 3.70 gear, in a strange N case, billet Daytons support and yoke, with a detroit locker and 35 spline Moser axles.
__________________ 1965 Fastback- 408w fully forged, Victor Jr Heads, RPM airgap intake, 750cfm Holley, Super-Comps, GForce T5,9inch w/ Locker, 35sp axles, 4 wheel disc brakes....and much more. Novi 2k coming!:nice:
The AutoGuide.com network consists of the largest network of enthusiast-owned enthusiast-operated automotive communities.
AutoGuide.com provides the latest car reviews, auto show coverage, new car prices, and automotive news. The AutoGuide network operates more than 100 automotive forums where our users consult peers for shopping information and advice, and share opinions as a community.