If you do all the prep, remove bumpers etc, tape everything but radiator and basic windows/lights to keep it legal to drive. What would you pay for a decent basecoat/clearcoat (two stage) paint job? Lets assume shop will spray a good sealer/primer to play it safe.
Thanks Frank
And if any of you own a shop in the SJ or Philly area, maybe I’ll bring it over for a quote…?
Doubt I’ll do the garage paint booth thing again. Great success in past, but not willing to wait for warm weather. (big…huge blue standard tarp to cover floors/most the walls, 4 window fans linedup on the floor under door/then cardboard the rest of the way, 98 cent cheap a/c filters on front of fans. used bed sheet on back/driveway side. Side door screened off for bugs and BAM, you have a paint shop with exceptional airflow. 4 cheap square fans move some air! Can leave your cars in the driveway and in my case, even the snobby neighbors have no idea except the smell briefly when applying. but even then, it disapates quickly.
Where are you? Ave in NYC area is a lot different than in South Dakota.
I suggest just for reference get a nearby estimate for a high end Maaco job.
Note you will pay extra for a color that's not one of their standard colors.
Slim
Not suggesting you use Maaco, just for a basis!
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My '64 1/2 vert. Ordered May '64. D code 4 speed, handling package, caspian blue, accent group, Ford blue manual top.
'68 vert. driver. Owned since '77. C code AT, AC, PS, P disc B, PT lime gold, standard black interior and top. NOS RF fender and left quarter.New top and folding glass.
It seems to me paint job prices are all over the place.
First, you have to find a shop willing to do it. Most body shops these days just do insurance work. Their sign out front might have a '69 Camaro on it. But it doesn't mean they work on old cars.
Then you have to find someone who does quality work. You can't go on price. I've seen expensive paint jobs that were lackluster. I've seen reasonably priced paint jobs that looked amazing.
Most areas have at least one shop that specializes in restoring classic cars. These places typically do great work. But their prices are based on meticulous, authentic restorations. So, paying $10,000 for them to paint your coupe driver may not be worthwhile.
So what do you do? All I can say is to join a local Mustang club and ask for recommendations. Although, I must say I'm a member of a Mustang club and, when it comes to paint jobs, all I get are shrugs when I ask about paint. One guy I know pretty well told me NOT to use the guy he used to paint his '70 Mach 1. OK. That helps. But it doesn't get my car painted.
The more I go round and round with this issue the more I'm thinking I just might have to do the garage paint job you describe. At least that way, if it's a lousy paint job, I have nobody to blame but myself.
If you brought your car to my shop I would Block your body work, Prime it, block it, Prime it ,Block it, Wet sand it, Paint it, then cut and buff. You would be into it around $4500-$5000 depending on the color. No jambs just the exterior.
I know what you're asking. I can give a ballpark- but its subject to all of the above: (you may not find anyone, they may not want to give any warranty, or even take the job, prices vary with area etc) That said- my painter buddy gets 600-1000 for spraying, booth rental (about 200ish- we got it free as a buddy deal), cost of paint (some have luck with cheaper paint- but my preference is PPG; bad news is its $$$$) and I had to bring tape, and be willing to cough up $$ for any additional supplies. Truth is they didn't charge me once they saw I did bring several rolls of tape, and a partial roll of paper. This is western NC- YMMV but for reference- should give some ideas.
Details: painter also did the bodywork (seperate charge for this), car was disassembled, and all parts painted off the car. I hauled the car in on a Fri night, and began preparations. Saturday was ALL day long, we left around midnight. Car was baked as were all the parts (no charge for that)- though probably should have been since we used the bake cycle several times. We returned on Sunday, packed up, and cleaned up the area. Oh when you talk to the painter- ask about the paint- some are wierd about "just any paint" Mine would not spray a particular brand, cause he had issues prev with it but I don't recall the brand.
Last edited by dzahm; 01-28-2013 at 06:05 PM.
Reason: left out detail
At my shop it run right around $4500 to $6000 for the exterior of the car. If you where to go with black or red there would be more added. That is just a base price.
Dang- for just a spray job with bodywork complete you're saying around 4-5K? Way more than I thought (though I know paint is pricey-just didn't realize what a deal I am getting)
Dang- for just a spray job with bodywork complete you're saying around 4-5K? Way more than I thought (though I know paint is pricey-just didn't realize what a deal I am getting)
It is a lot of work if you want it straight and cut flat. you could have $1500 just in materials depending on the color. Everytime someone says all the bodywork is done just needs sprayed it is never ready for paint.If you want a cheap (inexpensive) paint job and you are comfortable with your body work Maaco is a great place to go.
Alternatively, you could get the materials you need for spraying it yourself for under 1k. Most of the cost of a paint job is in labor. You either pay for someone to do the block sanding and $35+ Hour, or do it yourself. It is really not black magic to paint your own car, just very detail orientated and persnickety.
Alternatively, you could get the materials you need for spraying it yourself for under 1k. Most of the cost of a paint job is in labor. You either pay for someone to do the block sanding and $35+ Hour, or do it yourself. It is really not black magic to paint your own car, just very detail orientated and persnickety.
If there was one thing that my Dad taught me about paint is that it is all in the prep work--he is a retired body/paint guy. I haven't done a whole car yet but have done various panels over the yrs and I have not had formal training (well, maybe I have from the "Old Man") but, it can be learned. I would thin that if you budgeted $1500 for materials you'd be close. Personally, I'd want to learn to do it myself. My Dad's advice was to learn gun handling by spraying water on cardboard to see how the patern sprays and then get an old fender from the wreckers and prep it and spray primer and then prep it. then when you are good, shoot the cheapest paint onit until you get good. I basically followed that regime and have gotten acceptable at it. Just my way.
If there was one thing that my Dad taught me about paint is that it is all in the prep work--he is a retired body/paint guy. I haven't done a whole car yet but have done various panels over the yrs and I have not had formal training (well, maybe I have from the "Old Man") but, it can be learned. I would thin that if you budgeted $1500 for materials you'd be close. Personally, I'd want to learn to do it myself. My Dad's advice was to learn gun handling by spraying water on cardboard to see how the patern sprays and then get an old fender from the wreckers and prep it and spray primer and then prep it. then when you are good, shoot the cheapest paint onit until you get good. I basically followed that regime and have gotten acceptable at it. Just my way.
You had a lot more training than I did; I am the only one I know whose eyes do not glaze over while indulging in a car talk session.
Keeping a tight lid on expectations, shopping around, and staying away from paint that is beyond your skill level is the key to keeping your budget from blowing up when painting your own vehicle. Sure it would be nice to spray HoC candy apple red with a metallic fade, but that is beyond the skill level of most armatures. There are all kinds of paints that respond very well in semi-skilled hands that WONT cost $250 a gallon.
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average cost of a two stage paint job
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