The subject is a 1968 Coupe (302 C4) with 17x8" wheels, 235/45 in front with a 4.5" Backspace
Up in front we've got stock suspension, only I've just done the Shelby/Arning Drop. Looks great, however, at full lock there is only about 1.25" clearance between the top of the tire and the fender.
Last time while driving I hit a pothole while turning and the fender trim molding got a little messed up as the tire hit.
Trying to see how to fix this, and my options are as follows
1) Remove shelby drop and put suspension back at stock "height"
2) Fabricate some box section as an extension to the bump stops to only allow a maximum of 1" of travel.
3) Someone on VMF comes up with a better solution (which doesn't include changing my wheels/tires
Any suggestions or solutions, or more importantly any problems with my option 2?
Obviously it looks better lowered, but I don't want a) to damage my fender/wheels and b) to have a cr@p ride
Not sure if it helps with anything but this car is mainly a street/show cruiser, not a track car, just in case it helps with anything
Option 1 will provide little to no relief IMO.
Option 2 is going to send pain up your spine and through your teeth! You may as well take the springs out and install solid bars between your upper arm and the shock tower!
Option 3: My suggestion would be to start with new, stiffer springs.
I've gone and taken some photos, might help explain things a little better.
Also, with regards to stiffer springs, any suggestions?
Well ya doesn't have to flip us the bird!
That's tight! And because of the fender trim you don't have the option to roll the fenders (sorry for stating the obvious).
Are the springs original? Could be they are just tired and need to be replaced.
Did you have the same combo before the Arning drop? Or have you added the wheels and tires later?
Ideally you would be able to pull the wheels and tires in about a quarter of an inch or so but I imagine that's out of the question!
If you could find a standard height 620 lb spring it might help. Maybe someone else running 235's on an 8" wheel can provide more (better) information. I stayed skinny (215 on 6" wheel) up front.
My '64 1/2 vert. Ordered May '64. D code 4 speed, handling package, caspian blue, accent group, Ford blue manual top.
'68 vert. driver. Owned since '77. C code AT, AC, PS, P disc B, PT lime gold, standard black interior and top. NOS RF fender and left quarter.New top and folding glass.
Are the springs original? Could be they are just tired and need to be replaced.
I assume the springs are original, they were already on the car when I got it. Any suggestions on which spring I can use which is stiffer?
Did you have the same combo before the Arning drop? Or have you added the wheels and tires later?
Wheels and tires were on car before arning drop, and there was about 2.5-3" clearance, definitely didn't have any rubbing issues
Quote:
Originally Posted by GrabberOrange69
Other optinons: Trim the inside of the moulding or run more negative camber
Negative camber would lead to uneven tire wear right? I'm tempted to remove the moldings and flare the arches a little
Negative camber would lead to uneven tire wear right? I'm tempted to remove the moldings and flare the arches a little
You can run up to around -1.0 or -1.2 degrees of camber without causing inside tire wear on a street car. if you go more then that you will start to see inside tire wear. I run around negative 3/4 degree of camber on my street cars with no issues.
Ok, so I've tried looking for stiffer springs, say 300-600lbs, but they all seem to be lowering springs. Any suggestions for stiffer stock height springs?
Then I guess if it still rubs I'll run 3/4 degree negative camber and see how that goes?
Ok, so I've tried looking for stiffer springs, say 300-600lbs, but they all seem to be lowering springs. Any suggestions for stiffer stock height springs?
Then I guess if it still rubs I'll run 3/4 degree negative camber and see how that goes?
I would look into Eaton springs. They should have what you need. I would not go over a 620 coil or it will ride like a truck.
As already stated, your springs are probably worn, OR they were cut before you bought the car.
If you put new stock springs on, your problem will more than likely be resolved. You don't have to go stiffer.
Believe it or not, it is rather common for people to install 1" lowering springs and find that their car sits HIGHER than it did before because the old springs were so worn out.
-Matt
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Last edited by lemonshindig; 02-03-2013 at 08:58 PM.
If you decide not to change the springs, they make a 1" thick poly top insulator for the spring to raise the front end a bit. It must have been close before as the 1" Arning drop typically lowers the front end around 1/2".
You could also look into progressive rate springs.
What is the difference between normal springs and progressive rate springs?
Quote:
Originally Posted by lemonshindig
As already stated, your springs are probably worn, OR they were cut before you bought the car.
If you put new stock springs on, your problem will more than likely be resolved. You don't have to go stiffer.
Believe it or not, it is rather common for people to install 1" lowering springs and find that their car sits HIGHER than it did before because the old springs were so worn out.
-Matt
I'm beginning to suspect the springs may have been cut or are worn. However, should I go for the standard 1968 302 springs, or go for the Boss /GT which are slightly stiffer?
Quote:
Originally Posted by bartl
If you decide not to change the springs, they make a 1" thick poly top insulator for the spring to raise the front end a bit. It must have been close before as the 1" Arning drop typically lowers the front end around 1/2".
I'll buy the poly top insulator just in case the new springs don't solve the situation
Quote:
Originally Posted by 22GT
Yeah. I always use the stouter 70-73 suspension bump stops when doing the "drop".
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Extended Bump stops to stop bottoming out...
