I suggest you decide what your total top dollar amount is for your target car and then try and find one in done condition for that amount. That exercise should serve to calibrate your sense of value at any given condition when it comes to a project car. Remember that for the average hobbyist, a project car plus the cost of refurbishing/restoring is usually more that finding an already done car.
The 68 project I did a couple of years ago for a friend initially cost him $5k. All there except engine and it needed everything except rust repair as it was a local car from new. At the end of the day it cost my friend about $30K more to get it done and this was accomplished with a very sharp pencil and some astute choices. After awhile, he later sold it to a broker for a profit and the broker has it listed here:
I feel that I got pretty lucky and found a convertible that had already been through the Rust and Body repair. Just needs a drivetrain and interior.
$5000 here in Connecticut
That sounds more along what I was wanting to find out. Was it in boxes or was it a complete roller?
Sounds to me like you really want a 67 or 68 fastback but a 67/68 convertible would be ok. Right?
Here are my unsubstantiated comparison. Assuming equal condition at each point and similarly equipped.
Fastback Convertible
$10,000 $5,000 Project
$15,000 $18,000 Resto cost
$20,000 $15,000 Driver quality value
People will say the numbers are meaningless, I agree. My point is an equivalent condition project vert will be less than fastback. The cost and effort to resto the vert will be higher than the fastback. The finished value of the fastback will be higher.
Lastly a vert is NOT a cheap/low maintenance date. Been a vert lover since a teen ager.
To me verts are like women. If you like em you can't live without em. If you don't like/love they can be a big PIA!
Slim
I do think that I'd always wish I went with a fastback and I didn't realize that they were high maintenance. I want to replace my coupe with either a fb or convertible at some point and use it as a nice daily driver for good weather days. It seems like a convertible would be great for that role and would hold or increase it's value way better than the coupe. I don't mind having to essentially build the car since I expect it to be a few years to completion. Welding repair panels, Painting and mechanical work are all things that I'm capable of, at least with a little help once in awhile but obviously if I can get a better car to start with, the easier the project would go. I'll just have to keep looking around a get a feel for values. More than anything I wanted to know if I should go ahead and start off with a $1500 project or wait it out for a solid car at $3k or $5k or whatever the best value point is. I know that whatever I buy, I'm going to wind up replacing an awful lot of parts so why not start with a fairly complete car that needs some work..
1967 fiberglass fastback, all aluminum 427 supercharged and racing coilovers all around. "Still waiting to find a sequential manual transmission under 20k "
You should already know the answer buy the best base you can find for your project. If you're buying a 1500 car you should expect to have virtually nothing salvageable. It's not worth the cost. Spend 5000 to start and you will be in a much better place.
In the baking Texas sun when it's up to 110 and 90% humidity having the top down does NOT have you reaching for your fleece hoodie. It might be (barely) tolerable with the vents open, the side wing windows pointed at you and cruising down the highway at 65mph. Driving around town is just flat going to be hot. I hope to be able to add Classic air to my 68 vert sometime in the next year.
Another thing, consider getting caught out in the rain when it's 95 outside and you have to put the top up. Bet it gets a little warm. (for the record, I will NEVER intentionally take my 'vert out into known or possible rain conditions but you just never know what might blow in."
My car was ordered from the factory specifically for the FoMoCo District Sales office in Atlanta. It has almost every option available at the time. EXCEPT A/C! Why would they order a car for sales exec in Atlanta without A/C?
You are asking a question that only you can answer.
Everyone here will tell you to buy the best thing you can afford to start with.
Yeah... surprised to see us getting criticized for giving too much information.
Most threads take on a life of their own. Take what you want and ignore the rest.
My 2 cents - with a '68 vert. $1500 is a VIN. under $5000 is a rustbucket. Between $5K and $7K is a vert that needs inner rockers. $7k to $10k is an older restoration or a solid base. That's were I bought in... Buy in as high as you can.
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BShannon
68 convertible
Vienna, VA
I paid $19k for a very recent very nice restoration. The car needed a few things like headlight and dimmer switches and the front end was shot so I put in a complete front suspension. I don't have the body or mechanic skills to restore a rust bucket, nor the time. I wanted a car that I could drive the day I got it.
I figure it would have eventually cost much more than what I paid and several years of work.
I plan on keeping this car forever. I have no regrets.
None of this is to say that I don't admire those of you who are in it for the challenge of the restoration. I wasn't.
I do think that I'd always wish I went with a fastback and I didn't realize that they were high maintenance. I want to replace my coupe with either a fb or convertible at some point and use it as a nice daily driver for good weather days. It seems like a convertible would be great for that role and would hold or increase it's value way better than the coupe. I don't mind having to essentially build the car since I expect it to be a few years to completion. Welding repair panels, Painting and mechanical work are all things that I'm capable of, at least with a little help once in awhile but obviously if I can get a better car to start with, the easier the project would go. I'll just have to keep looking around a get a feel for values. More than anything I wanted to know if I should go ahead and start off with a $1500 project or wait it out for a solid car at $3k or $5k or whatever the best value point is. I know that whatever I buy, I'm going to wind up replacing an awful lot of parts so why not start with a fairly complete car that needs some work..
The consensus is to take original price paid for the car and add the resto cost the total will be less on the car you paid more for. The extreme of this is buying a completed car is most times the best buy.
For some that equation doesn't work because we wanted a project for our hobby. Also in my case a quality paint job is not where I'll put big money. It's just a 30 footer driver, never will be shown and shelf worn original with rattle can areas is fine with me.
You have to decide for yourself where you're going and where you want to start. We're happy to help along the way!
Slim
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My '64 1/2 vert. Ordered May '64. D code 4 speed, handling package, caspian blue, accent group, Ford blue manual top.
'68 vert. driver. Owned since '77. C code AT, AC, PS, P disc B, PT lime gold, standard black interior and top. NOS RF fender and left quarter.New top and folding glass.
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