Clearance concerns / rear tires and leaf springs

[wheelsup351]

Originally Posted by miketyler

My Cuda has about that same spacing (315/17) on the leaf and it doesn't rub but I don't sling it around corners either.

same with fastback.

[GT289]

I've had inside sidewalls that close on a corner carver but not with a 70 profile tire.
The only way you'll know if the clearance is ok is to try.

[csouther]

My rear tires were that close somehwere along the way and needed a 3.8" spacer. It was fine till I had some spirited runs on the street and track. If they are pricey tires I would just invest the 25 bucks and get the 1/4-3/8" spacer. You shouldn't need longer studs for such a small change. That is, unless your studs are really short to begin with. I think Autozone or Orielly stocks this...

Mr Gasket Part No. 2375 - Wheel Spacers

[miketyler]

That's a good point. My tires are 315/35-17 and are fairly low profile. I have same tires on my 70 Mach and coincidentally, about the same clearance.

I wouldn't have it any other way.

[slow-poke]

I have about that much clearance with my 275-50-17's and they don't rub. I'm using a composite spring so this must help.

[slim]

Just for comment. The auto engineers build in clearances in the overall design. They don't use the guide line "I don't mind if the tire rubs on fast cornering" and things like that. The parameter is it won't rub ever by design!

Also if you compare a 40 profile tire with a 75 profile tire, both radials and similar OD (obviously the 40 is on larger wheels/rims). The 75 has a much taller sidewall and will have a lot more tread and sidewall shift.

[Idaho Stanger]

Oh, where to start.. After a good nights rest and resisting the temptation to check the forum in the middle of the night to see what kind of feedback I was receiving, I was pleased to see a few more posts.

I'm currently leaning towards installing a 1/4 inch spacer for the back wheel clearance issue. The addition of this spacer will give me allmost 1/2 inch clearance from the springs and I trust that should be enough. The downside to this is that my wheel studs will be about 1/8 inch too short. Is this a big deal?

[wheelsup351]

how many threads/turns on the lug nut do you have left with the spacer?

can you post a pic?

[Idaho Stanger]

Haven't installed or purchased spacer yet. Based on observation, it looks like about last 1/8-3/16 inch of lug nut will have no stud to attach to. Stud looks to be that much too short.

[eldog]

my coupe has about the same space. i can just barely get a finger between spring and tire. No rubbing as of yet.

[Ockbob]

You don't have to remove the axle to replace the studs. Just remove the tire and drum (assume these are drums, discs are even easier). Then you rotate the spindle with the lugs until they line up with the hole on the back of the plate behind the brakes. Then you just bang out the old studs and insert the new studs.

[Idaho Stanger]

Thanks Ockbob, that sounds alot easier than pulling the axles out.

[beechkid]

Originally Posted by Idaho Stanger

Oh, where to start.. After a good nights rest and resisting the temptation to check the forum in the middle of the night to see what kind of feedback I was receiving, I was pleased to see a few more posts.

I'm currently leaning towards installing a 1/4 inch spacer for the back wheel clearance issue. The addition of this spacer will give me allmost 1/2 inch clearance from the springs and I trust that should be enough. The downside to this is that my wheel studs will be about 1/8 inch too short. Is this a big deal?

IMHO, 3/4" clearance should be considered the minimum- the tire when flexing does not flex just at the bottom of the rim, it shifts equally throughout the circumference- even 50 series tires, can flex up to 1/2"- especially if a "bump" is involved during side/lateral force application (if you have a 40 series, just place a remote camera underneath and watch as you go around any corner at any speed). Visit any corvette dealer- take a look at any of the new vettes...there is over 1' of clearance between the suspension components & the tire sidewall- and those are 35 & 40 series tires (and anyone who thinks a 40 series tire does not flex 1/2" is unconscious). You also have to remember,
the "new" gen tires are not constructed with the same construction as the true multi-layer "belted" tires, the sidwalls are much more suseptible to damage- with a conventional radial, you could rub against a curb- no big deal, today's tires can/will/do sustain internal damage that may or may not show signs (such as a "bubble") but can and will experience spontaneous failure.

Not only will you be placing yourself in absolute jeparady, but others on the road as well. Any tire mfg consumer relations department will verify.

[wheelsup351]

Originally Posted by Idaho Stanger

Thanks Ockbob, that sounds alot easier than pulling the axles out.

if you get stuck banging them out, pulling the axles is a total of 8 nuts (4 each side). really easy to take them to a shop and have the studs pressed out and new ones pressed back in.

there should be a hole in the flange of the axle that allows access to the 4 nuts that retain the axle into the housing. pop those 4 nuts, and out comes the axle.