My 64 1/2 coupe came without a key. I got the lock assembly out of the car and will replace the tumbler with a matched set for the doors but I need to get the existing tumbers out. Since I can't turn to the accessory postion without the key, I can't put a paperclip in the tumber to free it. So I guess I have to drill it out. Anybody out there done this and if so how'd you do it. A new body only costs $8 or so; if it's a big deal, maybe I'll just buy a new body. Thanks.
My 64 1/2 coupe came without a key. I got the lock assembly out of the car and will replace the tumbler with a matched set for the doors but I need to get the existing tumbers out. Since I can't turn to the accessory postion without the key, I can't put a paperclip in the tumber to free it. So I guess I have to drill it out. Anybody out there done this and if so how'd you do it. A new body only costs $8 or so; if it's a big deal, maybe I'll just buy a new body. Thanks.
Walt
64 1/2 D code coupe
No offense Walt, but don't expect a response when you mention picking a lock... Just get a new body.
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Steven
Hickory, NC
1966 Coupe
Replaced
Full floor pan
Firewall
Full cowl
Radiator support
Up next:
Shelby drop, 4 wheel drum to disc conversion, rebuild front suspension/steering, taillight panel, trunk floor,302 and AOD upgrade, wiring harnesses back in, and hopefully only patch panels on the quarters
E=MChuck Norris
got a good laugh when I saw your response. I actually took the assembly to a local locksmith and he wanted $20 to do it, so I figured I'd try drilling it out (a suggestion to another poster with a similar situation on this forum).
Totally agree with a new lock body. That way you won't have to deal with a 40 lock.
Stan
__________________ Bay Area Mustang Association
President BAMA 2012-
'65 Fastback Mustang Monthly March 2013 NorCal Forum
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got a good laugh when I saw your response. I actually took the assembly to a local locksmith and he wanted $20 to do it, so I figured I'd try drilling it out (a suggestion to another poster with a similar situation on this forum).
$20?! OMG! I'd sell the car first!!
Slim
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My '64 1/2 vert. Ordered May '64. D code 4 speed, handling package, caspian blue, accent group, Ford blue manual top.
'68 vert. driver. Owned since '77. C code AT, AC, PS, P disc B, PT lime gold, standard black interior and top. NOS RF fender and left quarter.New top and folding glass.
Just bought a '65 coupe (my new project) last Thanksgiving...same problem. Lady had no keys for the car. I found the trunk key in the ashtray (after I had already removed the rear seat, crawled through the trunk and unbolted the deck lid latch).
Ended up just drilling out the ignition switch. It was badly worn anyway. Basically, hold the rear of the switch with some channel locks (or similar) and drill out with a 1/4"-3/8" drill. Will fall right out then you can remove the rest from the rear.
Also makes a lot of sense to replace the door and ignition keys/tumblers anyway for safety sake if nothing else.
CJ's has (Scott Drake I believe) matching ignition, door locks and trunk... one key for all.
__________________
Love me a Stang
68 coupe with a 351W and fmx
Mods: a lot... just ask if you're interested
07 gt
99 Gixxer 750 (When four wheels are too many)
I'll give the drilling a try - I've got nothing to lose. Also, thanks, Frank, for the tip about the matching keys. I'd only seen the NPD sets where there's a separate key for the trunk, glove compartment.
Take the door lock to a smith and get a new key made. If you drill the ignition lock, you will almost certainly destroy the switch. Even if you don't, a new lockset is $30, so a new key would be $10 less. And if you wreck the switch, that's another $15. Get a key made.
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Amateur restorer. (Well, once in a while I have been paid for it)
Picking the lock on these old cars is not that hard to do. I will usually spend about 15 minutes on one. If I can't get it in 15 minutes I go to plan B. 2+2's idea of taking the door lock out to get a key made is a great idea as long as the door still matches the ignition.
right-on a 40 something old car the ign lock/tumblers could have been replaced- do the drill thing and then if u have lots of patience u can rekey the door cylinders to the ign lock that u purchase new or just remove the ones in the door cylinders so any key will work-who else will know
Lock picking is not rocket science on these cars. In many cases it is less work then trying to drill the lock.
Look up how to lock pick.
You will need to make a tension tool and some kind of a rake. Stiff wire, paper clips, hack saw blades etc and you can make the tools.
It helps if the lock is loose , that is the cylinder bounces and is not stiff in the hole. Then you might want to lubricate it. Usually these cylinders are loose, well worn out.
Sometimes the locks pop instantly other times it is best to put the tools down and walk away for a little bit. It is more of a challenge on a Model A door handle that is tight with swollen pot metal.
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Lock Picking
