Holy cow, to tell you that they would only do something a certain way and not any other way whether you wanted it or not... arrogant and rude.
Paint will run you a lot more than you think! Highest quote I got for mine was $29,000... yeah, you read it right. Guy was probably just trying to get me out of his shop and he definitely succeeded. Lowest quote I got was $6500 and that was for reskinning the doors and paint only.
With regard to the floor pans - DEFINITELY do the 1-piece. It fits great and install is way, way easier than the separate pans. If you pull out most of the interior before taking the car to the shop the cost should not be too terrible. You actually don't have to pull a lot of the drivetrain out at all to accomplish the job... we left the trans in for mine and only pulled out the driveshaft because we wrangled the pan in from the bottom. If you're not dead set on having your windshield in the car, it takes even less time because you can slide the whole piece in though that hole (I was NOT about to pull my windshield after spending so much time getting it to not leak though ).
__________________ Calamity Jane aka "The Maybe-Not-So-Evil B$*&#"
1966 Fastback
289 v8, Powerjection III EFI, mild cam
4-speed, 3.25 9" rear
Power disc brakes, Unisteer power R&P
Pertronix ignition, RetroSound Model One radio, Classic Auto Air A/C, etc...
Three years of work for three days of perfection. This pony WILL get back out on the road and it WILL reliably take me where I want to go... and it will always, always keep me safe.
lol just got off the phone with a shop in Norfolk (I sent an email to several, this guy wouldn't tell me which he represented) and he told me for replacing floor pans and paint:
A) No quotes to ANYONE over the phone
B) I was looking at a minimum of a 10,000 dollar job for paint and floor pans/seat risers
He also told me because my floor pans were rusted he would have to replace my cowl (and did I have ANY idea how difficult a cowl was to replace on a mustang, no man I thought it was a bolt in part LOL).
Also told me he refused to use coupe floorpans on coupes because of the inherent weakness of the A pillar, so they use convertible floorpans on them only. Maybe that's a thing, but I have never heard of it; anyone else heard of doing that?
I may be wrong but the actual floor pans for coupes fastbacks and verts are mostly the same. Maybe a few different cuts on the verts. They do differ in that the verts had additional inside rockers, torque boxes, different seat pans and additional structure underneath the seats on the bottom of the car.
Here is a great explanation on how to install the vert parts on coupes and fastbacks for added strength.
Holy cow, to tell you that they would only do something a certain way and not any other way whether you wanted it or not... arrogant and rude.
Paint will run you a lot more than you think! Highest quote I got for mine was $29,000... yeah, you read it right. Guy was probably just trying to get me out of his shop and he definitely succeeded. Lowest quote I got was $6500 and that was for reskinning the doors and paint only.
With regard to the floor pans - DEFINITELY do the 1-piece. It fits great and install is way, way easier than the separate pans. If you pull out most of the interior before taking the car to the shop the cost should not be too terrible. You actually don't have to pull a lot of the drivetrain out at all to accomplish the job... we left the trans in for mine and only pulled out the driveshaft because we wrangled the pan in from the bottom. If you're not dead set on having your windshield in the car, it takes even less time because you can slide the whole piece in though that hole (I was NOT about to pull my windshield after spending so much time getting it to not leak though ).
29k?
I have a few friends who are welders...they all have access to welders too. I am highly considering just doing it myself (okay, ourselves).
I don't have any issue taking my windshield out because the !%!#@% leaks anyways and is pockmarked as all get out so that was on my list of things to repair.
I've actually removed everything from the interior basically...all the seats are out, the carpet is out, seatbelts are out, etc (the carpet was scragged anyways so I just pitched it). The only thing not removed that pokes out on the interior is the shifter.
Is it seriously something that anyone with basic competence with welding could accomplish? How long does it take? If it's just a bunch of spots welds, what techniques are used to keep moisture from between the welds?
__________________ "Natalie", '66 Coupe
Freshly Rebuilt 4-Speed w/ Hurst Performance Plus
289, Holley Carb, Edelbrock Intake and Water Pump, Tefba, Summit Direct Fit Rad
3.55 with Posi, Zoom Clutch
Next On the Agenda:
Interior - Replace floorpans (in progress), new carpet, tilt column, new steering wheel
Exterior/Body/Performance: Windshield (in progress), New cowl (in progress), weatherstripping, power steering
Paint will run you a lot more than you think! Highest quote I got for mine was $29,000... yeah, you read it right. Guy was probably just trying to get me out of his shop and he definitely succeeded.
Before you left did you ask him how much crack he actually smoked each day?
Seriously, he must have been a woman-hater that couldn't stand seeing a Mustang owned by a girl.
Don't worry guys, he assured me that I could knock some off of the price by helping disassemble the car! I think $800 was how much he said I'd save.
So if you're in NC and want paint for your car... don't go to Gibson's Autoworks
All I could think was that he was either trying to run me off or had me figured for a daddy's girl who's got lots of funds to back her up. Guess it is kinda crazy for people to get it in their heads that they should own a vintage car at age 19...
__________________ Calamity Jane aka "The Maybe-Not-So-Evil B$*&#"
1966 Fastback
289 v8, Powerjection III EFI, mild cam
4-speed, 3.25 9" rear
Power disc brakes, Unisteer power R&P
Pertronix ignition, RetroSound Model One radio, Classic Auto Air A/C, etc...
Three years of work for three days of perfection. This pony WILL get back out on the road and it WILL reliably take me where I want to go... and it will always, always keep me safe.
Before you left did you ask him how much crack he actually smoked each day?
Seriously, he must have been a woman-hater that couldn't stand seeing a Mustang owned by a girl.
Haha now see all MY buddies are Chevy and Mopar guys (I'm a Mopar guy too just don't have the bank account for one LOL) and they all call the Mustang a girl car hahaha
All in good fun!
__________________ "Natalie", '66 Coupe
Freshly Rebuilt 4-Speed w/ Hurst Performance Plus
289, Holley Carb, Edelbrock Intake and Water Pump, Tefba, Summit Direct Fit Rad
3.55 with Posi, Zoom Clutch
Next On the Agenda:
Interior - Replace floorpans (in progress), new carpet, tilt column, new steering wheel
Exterior/Body/Performance: Windshield (in progress), New cowl (in progress), weatherstripping, power steering
The car in my sig, 2 floor pans, rear tail light panel, full right rear quarter up to the roof, paint under hood, all interior, and exterior, ran me a whopping $4000! Try and beat that! Yes I am bragging.
They didn't have the one pice floor or it was way too expensive when I had mine done in "01.
__________________
"LAZARUS"
Goodguys Younguys award winner TX-2000
MCA Grand National Pinnacle Award: Best Modified Driven, Sept 2012
Modified Mustang & Ford article: ?/2013
2 years of hard labor later
10k included paint I think, but just his general demeanor and attitude..it was so bad. I mean at 10k I would really be expecting a lot more than just paint and floor pans.
Agreed. For that kind of money you can do it yourself, make mistakes and do it all over again with money to spare. Plus you will get the experience. I learned to weld before I was in high school. And if I could do it, anyone can. Just be careful. Good luck.
Talked to one guy today just out of curiousity and he recommended AGAINST the full floor...also said the cost would be higher (he quoted about 1k higher on a full floor than doing two partials).
He said he was a concourse judge golden something or other etc.
Also interestingly enough my insurance has said they'll cover the floor damage from the water (damage was caused by water that built up UNDER the carpet, no not from the cowl thank god...).
__________________ "Natalie", '66 Coupe
Freshly Rebuilt 4-Speed w/ Hurst Performance Plus
289, Holley Carb, Edelbrock Intake and Water Pump, Tefba, Summit Direct Fit Rad
3.55 with Posi, Zoom Clutch
Next On the Agenda:
Interior - Replace floorpans (in progress), new carpet, tilt column, new steering wheel
Exterior/Body/Performance: Windshield (in progress), New cowl (in progress), weatherstripping, power steering
Talked to one guy today just out of curiousity and he recommended AGAINST the full floor...also said the cost would be higher (he quoted about 1k higher on a full floor than doing two partials).
The only way I can see a full floor costing more to install than two pans is if he just slapped in the pans with a very large overlap, dabbed on a few spot welds, then covered it all up with seam sealer. This is a very common method. It's common because it's comparitively inexpensive.
The only way I can see a full floor costing more to install than two pans is if he just slapped in the pans with a very large overlap, dabbed on a few spot welds, then covered it all up with seam sealer. This is a very common method. It's common because it's comparitively inexpensive.
Gotcha, thanks for that. I went by and looked at this shop today. While I know nothing about welding, there did seem to be a very large line of sealer in the rear portion of a partial he was doing (long, thick black line).
__________________ "Natalie", '66 Coupe
Freshly Rebuilt 4-Speed w/ Hurst Performance Plus
289, Holley Carb, Edelbrock Intake and Water Pump, Tefba, Summit Direct Fit Rad
3.55 with Posi, Zoom Clutch
Next On the Agenda:
Interior - Replace floorpans (in progress), new carpet, tilt column, new steering wheel
Exterior/Body/Performance: Windshield (in progress), New cowl (in progress), weatherstripping, power steering
Do you have the space to do your own welding? A little practice and it's really not that difficult -- especially for the full floor pan, which as others have already pointed out, is nothing but rosette welds. Even with the purchase of a MIG welder setup (incl. gas) you'll still come out way ahead. Plus, you get the satisfaction of doing it yourself.
Dedicate a weekend to reading every floor pan replacement post you can find on this forum and you will have all the knowledge you'll need for the job -- then it's just practicing your rosette welds.
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).
? 
I think $800 was how much he said I'd save.
