Stripped out the interior completely of my Mustang today, knew I would find some rust because my seals on my vent windows and quarter windows aren't so great.
Found a lil more than I expected to. Drivers side front is pretty bad (can poke a screwdriver through probably a 10" by 10" section of it give or take) as well as drivers side rear, passenger side rear is pretty bad too.
For general purpose, at what point in time should I simply replace the floorpans versus repairing them? CJ's is having their 20% off sale so both side floor lengths can be had for just over 100 bucks, and a single piece can be had for 400-450ish.
I'd rather do it RIGHT as opposed to saving cash, my motto is "do it right the first time so you only have to cry once."
I'm leaning towards simply replacing them, is there a reason not to go this route?
__________________ "Natalie", '66 Coupe
Freshly Rebuilt 4-Speed w/ Hurst Performance Plus
289, Holley Carb, Edelbrock Intake and Water Pump, Tefba, Summit Direct Fit Rad
3.55 with Posi, Zoom Clutch
Next On the Agenda:
Interior - Replace floorpans (in progress), new carpet, tilt column, new steering wheel
Exterior/Body/Performance: Windshield (in progress), New cowl (in progress), weatherstripping, power steering
I like your motto. Spend the money on the one piece pan. You will NOT be sorry you did.
I'm not 100% set on the one piece pan yet, I have been debating how much less labor the one pan will cost me (since I have not ever nor can I weld) versus the additional price.
__________________ "Natalie", '66 Coupe
Freshly Rebuilt 4-Speed w/ Hurst Performance Plus
289, Holley Carb, Edelbrock Intake and Water Pump, Tefba, Summit Direct Fit Rad
3.55 with Posi, Zoom Clutch
Next On the Agenda:
Interior - Replace floorpans (in progress), new carpet, tilt column, new steering wheel
Exterior/Body/Performance: Windshield (in progress), New cowl (in progress), weatherstripping, power steering
Installing an entire, one-piece floor is easier than installing two pans. It also looks better when it's done.
With individual pans, you have to either overlap them, which I don't like, or butt-weld them. Butt-welding takes a long time. Then if you want it to look good underneath, you have to spend more time grinding.
I highly recommend going with the one-piece floor. The only disadvantage is cost and shipping fees. But it's worth it.
what sort of cost should I probably be looking at for labor, with regards to a one piece floor pan? Of course the seat risers would need to be put in too..
__________________ "Natalie", '66 Coupe
Freshly Rebuilt 4-Speed w/ Hurst Performance Plus
289, Holley Carb, Edelbrock Intake and Water Pump, Tefba, Summit Direct Fit Rad
3.55 with Posi, Zoom Clutch
Next On the Agenda:
Interior - Replace floorpans (in progress), new carpet, tilt column, new steering wheel
Exterior/Body/Performance: Windshield (in progress), New cowl (in progress), weatherstripping, power steering
what sort of cost should I probably be looking at for labor, with regards to a one piece floor pan? Of course the seat risers would need to be put in too..
Sorry, I can't answer that. I did all my panel replacement myself. And I had never welded before. I would think the labor cost for replacing an entire floor would be about the same as installing individual floor pans.
That is, unless you're comparing to a mimimalist job where they just overlap the pans, tack weld them, then cover it all up with seam sealer. Such jobs are less expensive, but also less than optimal.
cool, you never welded before yet managed to do your own one piece floorpan? Was it difficult?
__________________ "Natalie", '66 Coupe
Freshly Rebuilt 4-Speed w/ Hurst Performance Plus
289, Holley Carb, Edelbrock Intake and Water Pump, Tefba, Summit Direct Fit Rad
3.55 with Posi, Zoom Clutch
Next On the Agenda:
Interior - Replace floorpans (in progress), new carpet, tilt column, new steering wheel
Exterior/Body/Performance: Windshield (in progress), New cowl (in progress), weatherstripping, power steering
cool, you never welded before yet managed to do your own one piece floorpan? Was it difficult?
I actually installed two long floor pans. It was not easy. That's why I recommended doing the one-piece floor. I wish I had done that.
FYI, I bought a Hobart 140 MIG welder with a nice cart. I added a gas bottle and practiced on scrap. Most panel replacement involves only spot welds, which isn't hard to get the hang of. Thus far I have replaced:
- Radiator support
- Battery apron
- Cowl
- Long floor pans
- Trunk divider
- Trunk pan
- Rear crossmember
- Taillight panel
It's been a real learning experience, but I'm getting it done.
very cool. I would however think that a single piece floorpan would require more than spot welds.
__________________ "Natalie", '66 Coupe
Freshly Rebuilt 4-Speed w/ Hurst Performance Plus
289, Holley Carb, Edelbrock Intake and Water Pump, Tefba, Summit Direct Fit Rad
3.55 with Posi, Zoom Clutch
Next On the Agenda:
Interior - Replace floorpans (in progress), new carpet, tilt column, new steering wheel
Exterior/Body/Performance: Windshield (in progress), New cowl (in progress), weatherstripping, power steering
very cool. I would however think that a single piece floorpan would require more than spot welds.
You're thinking wrong. It's all spot welds. The entire floor was installed with spot welds on the assembly line. Even the seat stands are just spot welded in.
Thus, all you would require are some good spot weld cutters, a good MIG welder and a grinder. That's why it's easier than trying to butt-weld floor pans. Just put the car up on jack stands to support the car before you cut out the old floor: at least six jack stands would be a good idea.
very cool. I would however think that a single piece floorpan would require more than spot welds.
NO! That's the beauty of it!! The one-piece installs with spot or rose welds exactly the way Ford did it.
The partial floors, not the way Ford did it, require welding seams that never existed all over the place. I've done a bunch of these, and those friggin' seams are a time consuming pain, even if you lap them. And if you're paying someone else, upwards of twice the labor cost. Those cheap partial floors suddenly got a lot more pricey, eh?
__________________
Amateur restorer. (Well, once in a while I have been paid for it)
I"m debating whether I should give it a go or just hire someone to do it. I wonder what the total cost to weld one of those in would be.
__________________ "Natalie", '66 Coupe
Freshly Rebuilt 4-Speed w/ Hurst Performance Plus
289, Holley Carb, Edelbrock Intake and Water Pump, Tefba, Summit Direct Fit Rad
3.55 with Posi, Zoom Clutch
Next On the Agenda:
Interior - Replace floorpans (in progress), new carpet, tilt column, new steering wheel
Exterior/Body/Performance: Windshield (in progress), New cowl (in progress), weatherstripping, power steering
lol just got off the phone with a shop in Norfolk (I sent an email to several, this guy wouldn't tell me which he represented) and he told me for replacing floor pans and paint:
A) No quotes to ANYONE over the phone
B) I was looking at a minimum of a 10,000 dollar job for paint and floor pans/seat risers
He also told me because my floor pans were rusted he would have to replace my cowl (and did I have ANY idea how difficult a cowl was to replace on a mustang, no man I thought it was a bolt in part LOL).
Also told me he refused to use coupe floorpans on coupes because of the inherent weakness of the A pillar, so they use convertible floorpans on them only. Maybe that's a thing, but I have never heard of it; anyone else heard of doing that?
__________________ "Natalie", '66 Coupe
Freshly Rebuilt 4-Speed w/ Hurst Performance Plus
289, Holley Carb, Edelbrock Intake and Water Pump, Tefba, Summit Direct Fit Rad
3.55 with Posi, Zoom Clutch
Next On the Agenda:
Interior - Replace floorpans (in progress), new carpet, tilt column, new steering wheel
Exterior/Body/Performance: Windshield (in progress), New cowl (in progress), weatherstripping, power steering
$10k ouch ! I have about $700 into replacing my front floor pans and I got a nice Lincoln welder left over in my garage
10k included paint I think, but just his general demeanor and attitude..it was so bad. I mean at 10k I would really be expecting a lot more than just paint and floor pans.
__________________ "Natalie", '66 Coupe
Freshly Rebuilt 4-Speed w/ Hurst Performance Plus
289, Holley Carb, Edelbrock Intake and Water Pump, Tefba, Summit Direct Fit Rad
3.55 with Posi, Zoom Clutch
Next On the Agenda:
Interior - Replace floorpans (in progress), new carpet, tilt column, new steering wheel
Exterior/Body/Performance: Windshield (in progress), New cowl (in progress), weatherstripping, power steering
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