What I use to use on my cobra replica was clear, static cling material. It is available from sign shops and a sheet was really inexpensive. I would double it up on key places and did a very good (read not perfect) job of protecting the paint and was removable and reusable.
Static cling sounds a lot less ominous than something adhesive backed - do you have any problems with it sticking after awhile? And does dirt get underneath it at all?
__________________ Calamity Jane aka "The Maybe-Not-So-Evil B$*&#"
1966 Fastback
289 v8, Powerjection III EFI, mild cam
4-speed, 3.25 9" rear
Power disc brakes, Unisteer power R&P
Pertronix ignition, RetroSound Model One radio, Classic Auto Air A/C, etc...
Three years of work for three days of perfection. This pony WILL get back out on the road and it WILL reliably take me where I want to go... and it will always, always keep me safe.
One other thing you might need to be aware of is dont realy know of any place that treats dirt gravel roads with oil to reduce dust. They do use a brine (salt) solution treatment instead.
Not a concern - the road I would be on is back country and totally untreated I will take that into consideration though!
__________________ Calamity Jane aka "The Maybe-Not-So-Evil B$*&#"
1966 Fastback
289 v8, Powerjection III EFI, mild cam
4-speed, 3.25 9" rear
Power disc brakes, Unisteer power R&P
Pertronix ignition, RetroSound Model One radio, Classic Auto Air A/C, etc...
Three years of work for three days of perfection. This pony WILL get back out on the road and it WILL reliably take me where I want to go... and it will always, always keep me safe.
Yes, the Scotchguard stuff comes off cleanly. It applies just like vinyl striping, with a spray bottle of soapy water and a squeegee. Yes, I know Pikes Peak is paved, but there's still a fair amount of stuff that can get kicked up from the edges. :-)
From their website.
Q.Will Scotchgard™ Paint Protection Film harm the painted surface if the film is removed?
A.If Scotchgard film is properly applied to a fully cured painted vehicle, it can be removed, usually in one piece, without damaging paint surfaces beneath the film.
Good to hear. I did read that in the FAQ, but what is advertised isn't necessarily what you'll get.
There is definitely a ton of junk around the edges of the road up Pike's, but I hope to not be anywhere close to the edge The pull-offs still aren't paved though. I scoped it out last summer driving a Nissan Sentra and even that weeny little car couldn't get far enough from the drop off the mountain for my tastes! The unfortunate part is that the top of Pike's is so congested with tourists - not many photo ops, but I just want to be able to say that I took a vintage pony up Pike's and back down again (hopefully all in one piece ).
2manyhobbies, thanks for the link - I might stop by that place and check it out!
Realistically I just want something that will go on relatively cheaply and come off without a hassle after the summer's over. Anything over $250 seems like way too much for such a temporary thing.
__________________ Calamity Jane aka "The Maybe-Not-So-Evil B$*&#"
1966 Fastback
289 v8, Powerjection III EFI, mild cam
4-speed, 3.25 9" rear
Power disc brakes, Unisteer power R&P
Pertronix ignition, RetroSound Model One radio, Classic Auto Air A/C, etc...
Three years of work for three days of perfection. This pony WILL get back out on the road and it WILL reliably take me where I want to go... and it will always, always keep me safe.
Realistically I just want something that will go on relatively cheaply and come off without a hassle after the summer's over. Anything over $250 seems like way too much for such a temporary thing.
You could always clip on some mud flaps so that you could take them on and off by hand anytime you wanted to. Seen quite a few guys roll up to the National last August here in OK with those. Some had a front bra on it as well.
__________________
"LAZARUS"
Goodguys Younguys award winner TX-2000
MCA Grand National Pinnacle Award: Best Modified Driven, Sept 2012
Modified Mustang & Ford article: ?/2013
2 years of hard labor later
The only thing that would worry me about static cling stuff would be the thickness, and whether it would actually be enough to protect against a stone chip. Maybe cheap old Contact Paper in the right color would work. Goes on pretty easy and peels off without too much problem either. Might need some WD-40 to get the residue off and a re-wax though.
Yep, mudflaps are going on for sure. Think I should jack up the rear on air shocks and add crazy pinstriping too?
Bart - I'll take a look at that, I agree that it needs to be properly thick (and more importantly, springy, which will deter rock chips a lot better).
__________________ Calamity Jane aka "The Maybe-Not-So-Evil B$*&#"
1966 Fastback
289 v8, Powerjection III EFI, mild cam
4-speed, 3.25 9" rear
Power disc brakes, Unisteer power R&P
Pertronix ignition, RetroSound Model One radio, Classic Auto Air A/C, etc...
Three years of work for three days of perfection. This pony WILL get back out on the road and it WILL reliably take me where I want to go... and it will always, always keep me safe.
Yep, mudflaps are going on for sure. Think I should jack up the rear on air shocks and add crazy pinstriping too?
Come onI said you could make them temporary.
__________________
"LAZARUS"
Goodguys Younguys award winner TX-2000
MCA Grand National Pinnacle Award: Best Modified Driven, Sept 2012
Modified Mustang & Ford article: ?/2013
2 years of hard labor later
I was being serious, not poking fun Someone on here has used pieces of windlace to hold on mudflaps temporarily which is a great idea... binder clips are another option that has been used.
I just figured that if I'm going to have mudflaps (which I 100% will), might as well deck out the rest of the car too
__________________ Calamity Jane aka "The Maybe-Not-So-Evil B$*&#"
1966 Fastback
289 v8, Powerjection III EFI, mild cam
4-speed, 3.25 9" rear
Power disc brakes, Unisteer power R&P
Pertronix ignition, RetroSound Model One radio, Classic Auto Air A/C, etc...
Three years of work for three days of perfection. This pony WILL get back out on the road and it WILL reliably take me where I want to go... and it will always, always keep me safe.
Static cling sounds a lot less ominous than something adhesive backed - do you have any problems with it sticking after awhile? And does dirt get underneath it at all?
Properly applied; clean and waxed surface, static cling applied with warm water and a drop of dish washing soap, squeegeed out, left overnight, I have never had them fall off. This goes for racing numbers, stripes and paint protection. Once applied, no dirt will get under it. It has been tested at over 100 mph
I have tested its effectiveness by taking two 8 mil sheets, as I suggested, put it on an extra fender and through rocks at it ( yes I really did ). It protected the paint really well and the static cling took the brunt of it. It is absolutely possible to pierce it, but it would take a pretty hard and pointy hit to do that.
__________________
Last edited by GT350R Klone; 02-26-2013 at 07:40 PM.
I was being serious, not poking fun Someone on here has used pieces of windlace to hold on mudflaps temporarily which is a great idea... binder clips are another option that has been used.
I just figured that if I'm going to have mudflaps (which I 100% will), might as well deck out the rest of the car too
Well in that case I know someone with an old set of us mags with bias plys on them who wants to sell them! His coupe even had large fender flares, haha.
__________________
"LAZARUS"
Goodguys Younguys award winner TX-2000
MCA Grand National Pinnacle Award: Best Modified Driven, Sept 2012
Modified Mustang & Ford article: ?/2013
2 years of hard labor later
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