Floor pan interior coating and coating under the car - Vintage Mustang Forums
Vintage Mustang Forum
HomeForumGalleryClassifiedsAbout UsAdvertiseContact Us
» Auto Insurance
» Featured Product
Go Back   Vintage Mustang Forums > General Discussion > Vintage Mustang Forum
Vintage-Mustang.com is the premier Ford Mustang Forum on the internet. Registered Users do not see the above ads.
Reply
 
Thread Tools
Old 02-26-2013, 03:10 PM   #1 (permalink)
Senior Member
 
Join Date: Nov 2009
Location: Virginia
Posts: 851
Default Floor pan interior coating and coating under the car

Hey all,

So as anyone who has read my posts knows I am getting ready to replace my floor pans with a nice one piece. Also probably going to mod the seat risers by dropping them an inch or so, possibly moving them back 1-2".


I'm debating what to use for undercoating on the car, and what to use on the interior pans. I have my options at the various bodyshops.

One guy seems to think just an epoxy primer with a good spray over the top of it would be fine.

Another prefers to do the entire interior and exterior floors in Line-X (not offbrand stuff, actual Line-X brand).


This is not a rare care, it is a basic 66 coupe that can be found all day long.
Originality is NOT an issue here, this is going to be a "restomod lite" as in it will have a pretty vintage look and feel to it but will be getting some restomod stuff done to it. I do not plan on putting the car in any sort of concourse shows, I am looking to make a great driver quality vehicle and not a trailer queen or show winner.


I like the idea of Line-X, my stepdad's truck has a spray in bedliner and that stuff is ridiculously sturdy.
I do however like the "cleaner" idea of a primer / spray.


What do you guys think? All input is highly appreciated, I value everyone's opinion.
__________________
"Natalie", '66 Coupe
Freshly Rebuilt 4-Speed w/ Hurst Performance Plus
289, Holley Carb, Edelbrock Intake and Water Pump, Tefba, Summit Direct Fit Rad
3.55 with Posi, Zoom Clutch
Next On the Agenda:
Interior - Replace floorpans (in progress), new carpet, tilt column, new steering wheel
Exterior/Body/Performance: Windshield (in progress), New cowl (in progress), weatherstripping, power steering
md02geist is offline   Reply With Quote
Sponsored Links
Advertisement
 
Old 02-26-2013, 03:30 PM   #2 (permalink)
Senior Member
 
wareagle's Avatar
 
Join Date: Dec 2011
Location: Hickory, NC
Posts: 4,094
Default

My vote is a couple coats of epoxy primer.
__________________
Steven
Hickory, NC
1966 Coupe

Replaced
Full floor pan
Firewall
Full cowl
Radiator support

Up next:

Shelby drop, 4 wheel drum to disc conversion, rebuild front suspension/steering, taillight panel, trunk floor,302 and AOD upgrade, wiring harnesses back in, and hopefully only patch panels on the quarters

E=MChuck Norris
wareagle is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 02-26-2013, 04:03 PM   #3 (permalink)
Senior Member
 
bartl's Avatar
 
Join Date: Mar 2001
Location: West Rutland, Vermont, USA
Posts: 10,068
Default

Whatever your choice, the first step should be Epoxy Primer. You can spray it or brush/roller it if you'd like and can get it in red oxide, if you'd like, for that "factory" look. On the inside of mine, I used truck bed liner over EP because I like the texture and figured it would help hold my insulation better. I'm also going to use it on my pinch weld at the rocker and used it on my splash shields, underside of the fender where exposed to spray and wheelhouses.
__________________
http://forums.vintage-mustang.com/signaturepics/sigpic19079_1.gif

6F09A 63A 8 26 09D 71 1 5
bartl is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 02-26-2013, 04:04 PM   #4 (permalink)
Senior Member
 
wareagle's Avatar
 
Join Date: Dec 2011
Location: Hickory, NC
Posts: 4,094
Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by bartl View Post
Whatever your choice, the first step should be Epoxy Primer. You can spray it or brush/roller it if you'd like and can get it in red oxide, if you'd like, for that "factory" look. On the inside of mine, I used truck bed liner over EP because I like the texture and figured it would help hold my insulation better. I'm also going to use it on my pinch weld at the rocker and used it on my splash shields, underside of the fender where exposed to spray and wheelhouses.
Sorry to hijack, but which truck bed liner did you use Bart? Never considered putting it on the splash shields.
__________________
Steven
Hickory, NC
1966 Coupe

Replaced
Full floor pan
Firewall
Full cowl
Radiator support

Up next:

Shelby drop, 4 wheel drum to disc conversion, rebuild front suspension/steering, taillight panel, trunk floor,302 and AOD upgrade, wiring harnesses back in, and hopefully only patch panels on the quarters

E=MChuck Norris
wareagle is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 02-26-2013, 04:51 PM   #5 (permalink)
Senior Member
 
xcelr8's Avatar
 
Join Date: Feb 2012
Location: NW Indiana
Posts: 319
Default

^^ +1. Would like a nice roll on or spray can liner that wont fall off in a week. Need to do exterior of toe boards also.
__________________
Watch the progress on my 66 coupe here,
http://photobucket.com/projecttetanus
xcelr8 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 02-26-2013, 05:12 PM   #6 (permalink)
Senior Member
 
bartl's Avatar
 
Join Date: Mar 2001
Location: West Rutland, Vermont, USA
Posts: 10,068
Default

I used el cheapo aerosol from WalMart.
__________________
http://forums.vintage-mustang.com/signaturepics/sigpic19079_1.gif

6F09A 63A 8 26 09D 71 1 5
bartl is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 02-26-2013, 05:51 PM   #7 (permalink)
Senior Member
 
Join Date: Nov 2009
Location: Virginia
Posts: 851
Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by bartl View Post
Whatever your choice, the first step should be Epoxy Primer. You can spray it or brush/roller it if you'd like and can get it in red oxide, if you'd like, for that "factory" look. On the inside of mine, I used truck bed liner over EP because I like the texture and figured it would help hold my insulation better. I'm also going to use it on my pinch weld at the rocker and used it on my splash shields, underside of the fender where exposed to spray and wheelhouses.


I do not care about the factory look honestly...if I were putting something more rare together that might be a concern or if I was planning on entering shows or something. But with a "plain Jane" 66 coupe I'm fine turning it into something other than stock.

I definitely intend to do epoxy primer to begin with, it's just a matter of whether I go with Line-X over it or a nice topcoat.
__________________
"Natalie", '66 Coupe
Freshly Rebuilt 4-Speed w/ Hurst Performance Plus
289, Holley Carb, Edelbrock Intake and Water Pump, Tefba, Summit Direct Fit Rad
3.55 with Posi, Zoom Clutch
Next On the Agenda:
Interior - Replace floorpans (in progress), new carpet, tilt column, new steering wheel
Exterior/Body/Performance: Windshield (in progress), New cowl (in progress), weatherstripping, power steering
md02geist is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 02-26-2013, 06:59 PM   #8 (permalink)
Senior Member
 
1-18-68's Avatar
 
Join Date: Dec 2009
Location: Finger Lakes Region, NY
Posts: 436
Default

I used POR-15 then applied the Eastwood butyl sheets material over that. Hypothetically I am now covered for rust prevention, heat and noise issues....................I hope.
+++ on the mod to the seat base. I have pictures if you want, also of the floor after application of noise/heat material. I did use a Chassis Saver coating on the underside and topped it with a bed liner spray as mentioned by Bartyl-I think he used it on the inside though. I don't care about originality only about it outlasting me!
russ

Last edited by 1-18-68; 02-26-2013 at 07:03 PM.
1-18-68 is online now   Reply With Quote
Old 02-26-2013, 07:44 PM   #9 (permalink)
Senior Member
 
Join Date: Nov 2009
Location: Virginia
Posts: 851
Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by 1-18-68 View Post
I used POR-15 then applied the Eastwood butyl sheets material over that. Hypothetically I am now covered for rust prevention, heat and noise issues....................I hope.
+++ on the mod to the seat base. I have pictures if you want, also of the floor after application of noise/heat material. I did use a Chassis Saver coating on the underside and topped it with a bed liner spray as mentioned by Bartyl-I think he used it on the inside though. I don't care about originality only about it outlasting me!
russ

Bingo precisely how I feel. I'd love pics.
__________________
"Natalie", '66 Coupe
Freshly Rebuilt 4-Speed w/ Hurst Performance Plus
289, Holley Carb, Edelbrock Intake and Water Pump, Tefba, Summit Direct Fit Rad
3.55 with Posi, Zoom Clutch
Next On the Agenda:
Interior - Replace floorpans (in progress), new carpet, tilt column, new steering wheel
Exterior/Body/Performance: Windshield (in progress), New cowl (in progress), weatherstripping, power steering
md02geist is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 02-26-2013, 08:38 PM   #10 (permalink)
Senior Member
 
Join Date: Aug 2006
Posts: 1,135
Default

I used SPI epoxy black and plan on leaving as is.
palerider is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 02-26-2013, 09:41 PM   #11 (permalink)
Senior Member
 
Fstbk's Avatar
 
Join Date: Nov 2010
Location: Indy
Posts: 2,089
Default

Por15 is not designed to adhere to smooth, clean metal.
Epoxy can line a pool or coat a garage floor, it's better than most of the other stuff that some swear by.

Also, if you move your seat riser back 2" check that the seat mount bolts are still accessible.
Fstbk is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 02-26-2013, 10:33 PM   #12 (permalink)
Senior Member
 
Join Date: Aug 2001
Location: Pennsauken, NJ 08109
Posts: 568
Default

I did both. I put in convertible rockers, torque boxes and subframe connectors then rolled on epoxy and coated it with roll on bed liner inside and underneath.
Attached Images
File Type: jpg exhaust 2.jpg (95.3 KB, 30 views)
tweet66 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 02-26-2013, 11:47 PM   #13 (permalink)
Senior Member
 
bartl's Avatar
 
Join Date: Mar 2001
Location: West Rutland, Vermont, USA
Posts: 10,068
Default

I don't worry about the underside rusting because I don't drive it in the salt. I worry about rust from the inside from condensation, leaving the window cracked or a leaky gasket.
__________________
http://forums.vintage-mustang.com/signaturepics/sigpic19079_1.gif

6F09A 63A 8 26 09D 71 1 5
bartl is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 02-27-2013, 08:17 AM   #14 (permalink)
Senior Member
 
xcelr8's Avatar
 
Join Date: Feb 2012
Location: NW Indiana
Posts: 319
Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by tweet66 View Post
I did both. I put in convertible rockers, torque boxes and subframe connectors then rolled on epoxy and coated it with roll on bed liner inside and underneath.
Perfect! That's exactly what I had in mind.
__________________
Watch the progress on my 66 coupe here,
http://photobucket.com/projecttetanus
xcelr8 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 02-27-2013, 08:41 AM   #15 (permalink)
Senior Member
 
Join Date: Nov 2009
Location: Virginia
Posts: 851
Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by tweet66 View Post
I did both. I put in convertible rockers, torque boxes and subframe connectors then rolled on epoxy and coated it with roll on bed liner inside and underneath.

That sounds crazy durable and probably very waterproof.
__________________
"Natalie", '66 Coupe
Freshly Rebuilt 4-Speed w/ Hurst Performance Plus
289, Holley Carb, Edelbrock Intake and Water Pump, Tefba, Summit Direct Fit Rad
3.55 with Posi, Zoom Clutch
Next On the Agenda:
Interior - Replace floorpans (in progress), new carpet, tilt column, new steering wheel
Exterior/Body/Performance: Windshield (in progress), New cowl (in progress), weatherstripping, power steering
md02geist is offline   Reply With Quote
Sponsored Links
Advertisement
 
Reply

Thread Tools

Posting Rules
You may not post new threads
You may not post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is On
Trackbacks are On
Pingbacks are On
Refbacks are Off


Powered by vBadvanced CMPS v3.2.2

All times are GMT -4. The time now is 06:21 AM.


Powered by vBulletin® Copyright ©2000 - 2013, Jelsoft Enterprises Ltd.
SEO by vBSEO 3.3.2 ©2009, Crawlability, Inc.