Just what is a speed bleeder? (I know this is the perfect setup line for jokes, so go for it if you'd like) I've bleed brakes before and I'm used to unscrewing the bleeder at each wheel and then tightening, again and again, and again. Do speed bleeders solve this some how? I've got a lot of brake bleeding coming up and would appreicate a lesson.
Also, when bench bleeding a new dual cylinder MC, should the outlets be pluged or un-pluged when I'm pushing the pushrod in and out (slowly)?
As usual, any feedback would be appriacated.
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Mike in Spudland
"Would you like baked, mashed or fries with that?"
'Genny' 1964 1/2 coupe Cascade Green
'Jessie' 1966 coupe Arcadian Blue
i have never used speed bleeders. As for the MC connect lines from the MC back into the bowls so the fluid circulates back into the master cylinder. I bleed my brakes the conventional way and was fine.
Speed Bleeders are great. They basically allow brake fluid and air to come out but don't allow anything to go back in. This enables you to bleed your brakes by yourself. No more opening and closing a million times. Just hook a hose and fill container to the bleeder, open and pump and make sure to continually check your brake fluid levels so you don't run dry and have to start over. Then close repeat with all 4 corners. Check pedal and repeat as necessary.
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67 Fastback. Modified 289 with paxton.
One way valve it sounds like.Do they stay installed or do you replace them with the regular bleeder when done? Sold in sets or individualy. Different sizes?
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Mike in Spudland
"Would you like baked, mashed or fries with that?"
'Genny' 1964 1/2 coupe Cascade Green
'Jessie' 1966 coupe Arcadian Blue
Speedbleeders are only a good deal until the orange goo on the
threads wear out. At that point they don't seal very well.
The Earl's Solo Bleeders are a better design.
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So, are they to be used just for the purpose of bleeding the air out, and then you re-install the bleeders that wer installed prior? Orange goo? I'm kinda lost on this?
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Mike in Spudland
"Would you like baked, mashed or fries with that?"
'Genny' 1964 1/2 coupe Cascade Green
'Jessie' 1966 coupe Arcadian Blue
When bench bleeding a master cylinder the ports should have plastic plugs with tits screwed into them and thin hoses from the tits looped back into the reservoir so that you are pushing flushing out the ports (and the air with it) out of the internals of the MC.
The speedbleeders stay just as your normal bleeders do. Can buy them however you want. Pairs or singles. Good to know GT289. haven't had an issue yet but will pay close attention.
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67 Fastback. Modified 289 with paxton.
The orange goo keeps air from being sucked in around the threads when you release the brake pedal while you are bleeding. Basically they are just check valves (one way valves) that allow fluid out, but don't let anything back in. You leave them in place when you are done.
When bleeding, you crack them open and fluid flows through the little hole in the end of the bleeder, through the check valve, and out the bleed port when you step on the brake pedal. When you release the pedal, the internal check valve seats and prevents air from being sucked back in through the port while the orange goo keeps air from being sucked in around the threads. The orange goo is only important when bleeding - once the air is bled out, the conical end of the bleeder is the seal when the bleeder is tightened.
For reference:
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'66 Emberglo Coupe - Restoration in progress
Modifications:
5.0 EFI conversion
T56 6-speed
Rod & Custom Motorsports IFS
TCP subframe connectors
Vintage Air Heat & AC
The need for speed bleeders is basically determined by the availability of someone to pump and hold the brake pedal for bleeding. In addition because it's a check valve, sucking air back in is eliminated. I haven't used mine yet but since I live alone and hate having to get someone to help bleed my brakes, I consider them well worth the cost. If you have someone to help you, its probably not worth spending $20 for all 4.
Speed bleeders are like reverse zerk fittings for bleeder screws. They have a check ball and a spring which is seated when there is no pressure but will allow fluid pressure to open the port. They should NOT be left in place. When the "goo" wears off the threads you can "re-goo" them.
Hmm, never would have thought to worry about somebody stealing bleeder valves off my brakes. What kinda places do you hang out in, exactly? j/k I think I'll go ahead and take my chances.
Ok, thats great info. I'll just purchase a set and avoid the need to have wife help out. I guess I'll leave in place also as I doubt they'll be stolen! Thanks to all for their info on this.
Bench bleeding looks to be straight forward as I discovered, CSRP has included two mini brake lines which when installed will redirect the fluid back into each 'bowl' during the purgeing process. Thoughtfull of them to include these, sorry I haden't fully noticed before posting this part of post.
Thanks to all and happy motoring!
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Mike in Spudland
"Would you like baked, mashed or fries with that?"
'Genny' 1964 1/2 coupe Cascade Green
'Jessie' 1966 coupe Arcadian Blue
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Speed bleeders and bench bleeding a MC
j/k I think I'll go ahead and take my chances.
