For those that are cheap like me and like to make your own things that are simple to make (more time in the shop is a bonus!), I thought I'd post up dimensions to make your own camber eccentric plates similar to what Pro Motorsports and TCP carries. There are multiple variations of these out there, ranging from multiple individual plates with single hole, to single plates with two holes, to this version with a single plate with three holes. I don't see any strength concerns with having more holes, and if I had multiple plates I had to store they would likely get lost over time. So anyways, below is a picture of what the plates look like finished (from TCP website), and attached is a PDF with dimensions to make your own. Two plates per control arm are needed, and the hole in the lower left corner of the plate is to help you keep orientation of the plates on each side of the control arm. You want the hole to be in the same corner so that the bolt is straight.
The dimensions were taken from an older iteration of the Pro Motorsports plates.The current ones use two holes instead of three like mine. Since this is from an old version and it appears other companies have stolen the same idea, I don't see it being an issue in posting these drawings. You will likely want to up the thickness of the plates to 0.25" since it is more common, and I highly recommend adding the number markings so that you can keep track of the increments. Either use a number punch, scribe the number, or even a permanent marker. As you can see in the TCP version below, they don't include these marks nor do they have the reference hole. I would think the TCP version would be a pain to keep track of.
Beuing, thanks for the info. I've been making sets of these for my toys for a while now but your dimensions have me wanting to make a few changes. Thanks again.
Ha, no way! You drew up your plate at almost the same time I drew up mine! Maybe one of us could have saved the other the trouble. (Well, in all fairness I checked my print date, you've got me beat by a month...)
Just an FYI, your plates may not work with the 67-later cars due to the plates being 2" wide. Mine are roughly 1.75" and barely fit on the stock brackets of my car. Excellent work by the way! I like the Solidworks or whatever 3d drawing that you did of the setup.
Oh, I wasn't going for 67 and up, just for my 65, which has 0 factory adjustment on the LCA (ie, no stock brackets). That is a good thing to keep in mind though, in-case someone else tries to make those inner plates and stick them on their 67+ car.
BTW, I was using Pro-Engineer. It has a cool function where you can easily toggle on and off part transparencies to get a clearer look 'inside' of your assembly without doing cumbersome cross sections all of the time.
I have the same setup as Huskinhano. I've never seen anyone commit to saying the different plates correspond to whatever degree. Personally it was just trial and error in my case. I started out with #2 plates and ended up with -1 degree camber. Have been happy with that setup after 5000 miles. Many of us have done our own alignments.
Hi guys. I did the conversion according to your data here in Germany on my '68 Mustang. Thanks for the technical drawing. I did cut the metal myself. Which bolt do I need for the lower control arm? I can't find anything. We should fix this information here in the chat. diameter and length. And how big does the thread free area have to be? What strength does the bolt need to have? Thanks in advance.
Niko from Germany.
Niko, in my situation I originally used the stock 1/2" grade 8 bolt. When I built the New cross member I ended up using a 1/2" x 5" grade 8, with 1. 5/8" of free thread, to tie the lower control arms and cross member together. Stock bolt is 3 1/4" long with 1" of free thread, 66 specs obviously.
Thanks mate.
Which Modell do you have? Like is is it 1/2" on the 68?
So is it 1/2"x ? UNF? Grade 8 is okay and clear. And what is the length of the original Screw? As i am from Germany we only use Metric Screws here. So it's a bit harder for me to build it by my own.
I did build the metal plates like @buening 's technical showing. So the rest is still Original. Till now i did not had the original screws out. Like i want to bring the car to the shop next monday but i still have no plan what Screws to use.
The TCP eccentric eliminator kit comes with Grade 8 bolts that are 1/2-13 x 4 1/2" long in addition to washers and 1/2" nylock nut. In my case I am using a crossmember that ties into these bolts so I needed longer bolts.
For metric you will likely need Gr10.9 M14x2 bolts around 110mm in length.
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